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  #51  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:07 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Oh lord that throttle body looks bad.


Remove the entire throttle body from the intake and look into the intake. If it is real rusy in there then valves are probably going to need some work. The intake side will not burn off the rust like the exhaust side will.

I am scared to see what the rotating assembly and the cam look like.



I would almost say just yank the engine and drop a set of rings and bearings in it.

The parts that scare me would be the oil pump, valves, timing chain.

I am sure the crank could be resurfaced and the cam can be cleaned up. Rods and pistons should be ok.


I just would hate to waste time screwing with that engine trying to piece mill it to get it running and then find out that it needs to come out anyway.


You should be able to yank that engine in less than 3 hours.


Then you can take your time and do it right.


How were the plugs that were in there? If rusty then I would yank her
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  #52  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:06 PM
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Hey worthing - do you have an engine buddy - maybe you can get Kyle to come out.. checked the weather....much warmer in West Sussex than the Twin Cities in Mn....
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  #53  
Old 12-13-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)


Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation
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  #54  
Old 12-13-2012, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Oh lord that throttle body looks bad.


Remove the entire throttle body from the intake and look into the intake. If it is real rusy in there then valves are probably going to need some work. The intake side will not burn off the rust like the exhaust side will.

I am scared to see what the rotating assembly and the cam look like.



I would almost say just yank the engine and drop a set of rings and bearings in it.

The parts that scare me would be the oil pump, valves, timing chain.

I am sure the crank could be resurfaced and the cam can be cleaned up. Rods and pistons should be ok.


I just would hate to waste time screwing with that engine trying to piece mill it to get it running and then find out that it needs to come out anyway.


You should be able to yank that engine in less than 3 hours.


Then you can take your time and do it right.


How were the plugs that were in there? If rusty then I would yank her
Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .
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  #55  
Old 12-13-2012, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worthing skier View Post
Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation
it's all good....

Drive it like you stole it
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  #56  
Old 12-13-2012, 03:48 PM
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Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .
that's a good sign..... the moisture inside the cylinders would rust the electrode even if the cylinder wasn't full of water
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  #57  
Old 12-13-2012, 04:21 PM
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now this could be very exciting... can't wait for the cranking to begin... so did the boat run on petrol?
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  #58  
Old 12-13-2012, 04:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worthing skier View Post
Hi ,

the plugs came out without any problems , no internal rust on the threads or centre electrode , only on the outer part of the plugs which is to be expected .
Should get the starter back soon so I can crank it over to get a better Idea on it .
That is great news. I was thinking that the cylinder walls were rusted along with the rings and valves.



Here is what I would do


Take the Throttle Body off and pour about 1-2 quarts of transmission fluid down the intake and let it sit there for a few days. Then pull the plugs and crank her over and drain all of that nasty out. This is an old trick to get rid of carbon buildup. I dont think that you would want a piece of carbon or rust chunk from somewere bouncing around in the combustion chamber while it was running. That may cause problems. Flushing out the intake and top end with tranny fluid wont hurt a thing.


I found this trick out when I was a tech at a Caddy dealer. I took this car on a road test and was in a hurry. Friday at 5 and trying to finish up. Well I gased the rods out of the car and drove it like I was on a drag strip. Anyway a piece of carbon broke loose and got stuck somewhere in the combustion chamber. Told the shop manager that it just started making noise. I was 19 and he knew better. Told me how to fix it and it worked great. I was also told to be careful driving customers old peoples cars as they do not ever dust the cobwebs out of them and when you gas the rods this kind of thing can happen. Never got in trouble, just had to do some extra work for free.


In your case I would just do it for the reason that you do not know what the tops of the intake valves will look like without the intake removed. I would just do it as a precaution.



How does the oil look?
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  #59  
Old 12-13-2012, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worthing skier View Post
Ah , In the UK we call Liquid Propane Gas (LPG) "gas" ,
and what we call Petrol you call "gas" .

Hence why this has got confused in the translation
Where is the LPG tank located? Same place as the petrol (aka. "gas") tank on North American boats? I'm assuming it has to be a hard metal tank, not plastic like ours.
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  #60  
Old 12-15-2012, 06:02 PM
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Update ,

Well changed engine oil and found a bit of water in the sump .

Starter motor overhauled and refitted , where the starter butts up to the bell housing there is a gap but as the fixing bolts go up and there is no play in the bolt holes I cannot see how to close this gap , also does it really matter?.

Anyway fitted the new ignition switch and cranked it over , however when it cranked it spat loads of very rusty water from the plug holes ,I am surprised that if this water has been sat in the cylinders for such a long time it has not completely seized up ,I think this water has come from the riser/exhaust manifold area and by moving the boat around reticently has allowed it run into the bores .
I have also drained the block and found a very good antifreeze content .

Next step is a compression check to decide if I need to pull the motor to bits or not .

Pulled all the remaining bits of trim off as well , bit stuck on the main side trim on the drivers side around the gear lever area are the some hidden fixings holding it on ? .

Thanks

Kevin
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