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  #41  
Old 12-10-2012, 05:18 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Thanks for using the Hemihead font.

1 more MCOCD point for you Mike......and 2 more for the graphics on the van.....
lol....Yeah I've got it pretty bad....
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  #42  
Old 12-10-2012, 07:01 PM
bcd bcd is offline
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Look into having the starter rebuilt. An automotive shop should be able to rebuild it and still keep your marine rating.
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  #43  
Old 12-11-2012, 10:04 PM
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Hopefully you live north of the arctic circle! Your gonna need a long winter for that project!
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  #44  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:38 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Originally Posted by 51timber View Post
Hopefully you live north of the arctic circle! Your gonna need a long winter for that project!
Nope - he's south of London. https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&q...&ved=0CJsBELYD

Can't wait to see the next set of restore picks... keep it goin' ...
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  #45  
Old 12-12-2012, 01:26 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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The surface rust looks bad but will clean up. The risers can be removed and separated to replace the gasket inbeteeen the bottom part and top part. If you take them to a machine shop then they can toumble them in a toumbler or a bead blaster. When you get them back they will look brand new.

I'm concerned about the ECM


How is the oil. Is there water in it. If so I bet the bearings and all parts inside have rust on them. Change the oil with the cheapest oil you can find.

Transmission obviously was submerged fully. I would change the fluid and see what happens. Don't be discouraged if you rebuild that too.


Pull the old spark plugs and take a look. Are they rusty inside. If so there is an old trick that I would suggest that removes carbon build up that I would do if they are real rusty...... Put all rusty plugs back in. Pour a couple of quarts of trans fluid down the intake and just let it sit a few days (do not crank while trans fluid is being poured or while the fluid is in the combustion chambers). Then remove the plugs and turn over the engine several times a couple days later. Put new plugs in and crank it up. And let it run. It will run real bad until all the trans fluid burns out. Yes smoke is going to come out exhaust.


Then change oil again after you run it 30 min to an hour. I would do the same for the tranny.
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Last edited by Kyle; 12-12-2012 at 01:28 PM.
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  #46  
Old 12-12-2012, 05:44 PM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Cold weather and parts supply slowing the process up a little ,

Starter and alternator are off at my local re manufacturing shop so waiting on the outcome on that ,waiting on a new ign switch ,rebuilt the raw water pump ,now removed a bit more trim ,fuel tank and cleaned out .
As advised I have bought some cheap motor oil to replace , the throttle body needs to come off as the throttle flap is seized shut and the whole assy is a real mess, also need to look at ECM ,all the sensors looms and plugs .

Really would like to get to the point it cranks over nicely so I can do a compression check .

A question ,
I have found under the fuel tank a horizontal mounted bracket on the l/h stringer with a micro switch attached (2 wires), not sure what this is for ,
Also a relay that is screwed to the floor just in front of the engine mount again not sure what this operates ,both items do not look original fitments, and looking around the fuel tank area I think that this boat has previously been run on gas,
So any ideas ?


Thanks

Kevin
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  #47  
Old 12-12-2012, 05:48 PM
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Worthing skier Worthing skier is offline
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Hi

Thanks for the advice on this supplier in the Uk ,I did not know of him , trying to get these bits rebuilt first , but if not I will contact him.

Rgds

Kevin
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  #48  
Old 12-12-2012, 06:02 PM
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milkmania milkmania is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worthing skier View Post
Cold weather and parts supply slowing the process up a little ,

Starter and alternator are off at my local re manufacturing shop so waiting on the outcome on that ,waiting on a new ign switch ,rebuilt the raw water pump ,now removed a bit more trim ,fuel tank and cleaned out .
As advised I have bought some cheap motor oil to replace , the throttle body needs to come off as the throttle flap is seized shut and the whole assy is a real mess, also need to look at ECM ,all the sensors looms and plugs .

Really would like to get to the point it cranks over nicely so I can do a compression check .

A question ,
I have found under the fuel tank a horizontal mounted bracket on the l/h stringer with a micro switch attached (2 wires), not sure what this is for ,
Also a relay that is screwed to the floor just in front of the engine mount again not sure what this operates ,both items do not look original fitments, and looking around the fuel tank area I think that this boat has previously been run on gas,
So any ideas ?


Thanks

Kevin
what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)


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  #49  
Old 12-12-2012, 06:23 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania View Post
what lead you to think that it was on anything other than gas

and this is a pic of an 1988 Chevrolet Throttle Body from a truck (for reference)


In europe boats run on LPG....probably why it got neglected... probably was unable to get it re-registered or something and did not want to pay for conversion...IMO
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  #50  
Old 12-12-2012, 07:02 PM
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milkmania milkmania is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
In europe boats run on LPG....probably why it got neglected... probably was unable to get it re-registered or something and did not want to pay for conversion...IMO

either that, or it was under-powered running on LPG
I knew they ran on LPG, but didn't realize it was mandatory
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