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  #31  
Old 12-01-2012, 07:25 AM
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SkiDaddy SkiDaddy is offline
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Good stuff. I'm planning on working on my rudder today. I'm not happy with the steering ('93 ProStar) even after greasing everything. But I don't think the rudder box took any grease, so I'm guessing its old and nasty in there. I plan to disconnect the tiller arm first and then rotate the rudder by hand to feel how it is rotating. Then after re-assembly and re-greasing, I'm hoping that it moves easier and will solve my issues.

Did any of you guys take note of the before and after "feel" of the rudder rotation without the tiller arm connected?

Thanks!
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  #32  
Old 12-01-2012, 03:10 PM
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Miss Rita Miss Rita is offline
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My rudder moved very easily when the boat wasn't moving, both in the water or on the trailer. It only started to bind up at speed when doing sharp turns. When I disconnected the tiller arm it had a very smooth action. I can't say that in my case the rudder action was any better after doing the maintenance.

Be sure to support the rudder after removing the tiller arm, or put something cushy for it to land on after it falls out. My '89 had two o-rings, if yours is similar you'll want to replace them.

I looked very carefully at my rudder last night, I could not find an external weep hole for the grease to exit.
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  #33  
Old 12-03-2012, 06:52 AM
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SkiDaddy SkiDaddy is offline
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Well, removed the rudder yesterday. Same thing here - with the steering cable removed, the rudder had a smooth easy motion. Removed the arm and dropped the rudder and things generally looked OK. Pretty clean and no corrosion.

Rita - where did you get the new o-rings? Mine look OK, but might as well replace them while I'm in there.

My '93 ProStar has the weep hole on the rudder box housing. I almost think that this system has to have a weep hole, otherwise you wouldn't be able to get any grease through the zerk because it would have no place to go. I can say this though - when I tried to grease it before, I didn't get any grease coming out through the weep hole. So maybe it was light on grease and this only manifested as a problem with the rudder under load?

So I'll put it back together - make sure it is greased well and we'll see how it does in the spring. If the binding is still there under load, I'll replace the steering cable.

Good luck!
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  #34  
Old 12-03-2012, 03:49 PM
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petermegan petermegan is offline
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Those O'rings are nothing special and should be readily available. Might need to find where the gallery is for the weep hole and clean it out. Still sounds like it may be binding up there.
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  #35  
Old 12-03-2012, 05:30 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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I have a relitavely new steering cable. Like 1.5 yrs old and very low hours on it.

It is and has always been a little stiff at all times. Wet, dry, on the trailer, driving, etc.

I'm considering doing this rudder removal on my boat.


Looking at the photos the o-rings are installed in the rudder box not the rudder? Correct?


Next I'm sure that the rudder box has caked on nasty stale grease. Besides cleaning the rudder that is easy to clean, how or what is recommended to clean the rudder box. I'm not just super wild about fully removing the box itself. But I'm wanting to start fresh with the box.


I have never taken the box apart and I'm sure that it has never been done.

From center to 1/2 a turn both ways it is fine. Once past 1/2 way it takes 2 hands.

I will post results


My MCOCD found another item to clean on my boat. It's never ending lol
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Last edited by Kyle; 12-03-2012 at 05:32 PM.
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  #36  
Old 12-03-2012, 06:40 PM
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petermegan petermegan is offline
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Hi Kyle, Yes the O'rings are up in the rudder box. I just got in there with a toothbrush and ULP (gas). May need to get more serious if it is really caked up. Definitely wouldn't remove the rudder box/port unless replacing because of wear. Haven't heard of anyone else putting that flat nylon washer back in,but a mates 197 had one in it and it helps to take out any freeplay vertically that you may have. Have fun.
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  #37  
Old 12-04-2012, 06:49 AM
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And a follow-up question.... On disassembly of the rudderbox on my 190, there was a nylon washer at the top of the rudder / rudder arm assembly. However, on the bottom of the boat, where the rudder meets the rudder box there was no nylon washer, so that "joint" was just brass on brass.

Sound right or am I possibly missing a nylon washer on the bottom? I'm thinking not, because I don't think the previous owner ever took this apart, but figured I'd just doublecheck with the gurus here........

Thanks!
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  #38  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:39 PM
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SkiDaddy SkiDaddy is offline
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OK, following up with some info here, in case anyone (or myself) find this useful down the road.

Just finished putting the rudder assembly back together. 1993 Prostar 190.

Previous symptoms - couldn't seem to get grease into the rudder box zerk. Certainly couldn't get any grease to come out of the weap hole on the bottom of the assembly (just above the rudder.) Steering also seemed like it was a bit tighter than it should have been. Don't know if previous owners ever did any maintenance on the rudder.

1. After I removed the steering cable from the tiller arm, the rudder seemed to move very smoothly - no obvious issues.
2. Took everything apart, nylon washer at the top between the rudder box and the tiller arm. No nylon washer (at least on mine) between the rudder body and the rudder box on the bottom of the boat. What little grease there was in there was pretty nasty. I think the reason I couldn't grease it earlier was probably a tight/corroded zerk - or the grease was just so caked that the new grease couldn't displace the old grease, so no new grease could get in there.
3. Use a little engine degreaser, some rags and a toothbrush (don't worry - one of my kids - not mine ;-) ) and cleaned it all up.
3. Removed and replaced the zerk fitting. My size: 10mm x 1mm. Found at a local hardware store for about a buck. Didn't have any luck on these at auto parts stores.
4. Removed and replaced both upper and lower o-rings located in the rudder box. I just matched up closest size I could find at the hardware store. Went with 1-3/8" OD x 1-1/8" ID x 1/8" thickness. Seems to be a pretty good match.
5. Put it all back together and could actually get it to take grease via the new zerk. The tell-tale little stream of grease squirted out weep hole on the bottom of the assembly. So if nothing else, I got that going for me.

Honestly, I can't feel much of a difference through the steering wheel. But we'll see once she gets back on the water in the springtime. If I still have issues, looks like the steering cable will be next. At least I know the rudder assembly is good to go.

Now onto that next winter project - carb rebuild!!!
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  #39  
Old 12-09-2012, 05:55 PM
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- carb rebuild!!!
In most kits, the instructions leave much to be desired. I have a good PDF of a rebuild.

Most important part... patience... while it soaks overnight.

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  #40  
Old 12-09-2012, 07:09 PM
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petermegan petermegan is offline
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Sorry Skidaddy must have missed your post nearly a week ago. My buddy's 197 had a nylon washer at the bottom and I assumed rightly or wrongly that mine had worn, split and disappeared. Didn't like the idea of brass on brass so spun one up in the lathe to fit. Info a bit late I know.
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