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  #31  
Old 12-08-2012, 10:26 PM
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Thanks Cloaked. Don't know why I didn't think about DIM. When I am ready to start cutting stringers out I'm going to give you a call, particularly with regards to running the exhaust.
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  #32  
Old 12-08-2012, 11:10 PM
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Might be a dumb question, but can you dissolve the foam with some solvent? I would try putting a little acetone on a small test area to see how it does. Make sure to have good ventilation and no open flames/sparks nearby if you decide to try this approach.
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  #33  
Old 12-09-2012, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
but can you dissolve the foam with some solvent?
The foam might dissolve, but it wouldn't disappear. If it did dissolve it would leave an incredible sticky gooey mess. As much trouble as it is, removing the foam mechanically is the only way it can be done.
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  #34  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:50 PM
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Was able to finish pulling out the foam on Friday. I have a little grinding and scraping to do, but I'm glad it is out and can move on to other things. Going to try and order the transom wood and stringers this week if I have time. May even order the epoxy and glass. Things get so busy around the holidays, it is hard to get anything accomplished. Maybe I'll get to piddle on the boat after work this week.
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  #35  
Old 01-01-2013, 04:25 PM
tim79mc tim79mc is offline
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my 1979 restoration thread- http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=47981 might be helpful for you. I'm on hold while I get through Christmas... will be back at work in a few weeks.
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  #36  
Old 01-03-2013, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tim79mc View Post
my 1979 restoration thread- http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=47981 might be helpful for you. I'm on hold while I get through Christmas... will be back at work in a few weeks.
Looks like you are slightly ahead of me on the rebuild. I also hope to get back to things in the next few weeks. Seems like I have had something to do the last four weekends. How is the seven gallons of epoxy holding out? I was not sure if that would be enough for the floor and transom. What about an estimate on the roving? I have done a lot of research and the amount seems to vary according to the rebuild. Are you using 1708?
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  #37  
Old 01-09-2013, 09:30 AM
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Don't forget to post a few progress pics on "The MasterCraft Project" on Facebook. http://on.fb.me/KxYlLm
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  #38  
Old 01-15-2013, 08:41 PM
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I have really been wanting to get back working on the boat, so tonight I pulled the tracking fins and tried to drop the rudder. The rudder drops a few inches and then stops and will not go any further. Clamp bolt, key and cotter pin (missing) are removed and not the culprit. Any ideas? Possibly a burr? Am I missing anything else in order to drop the rudder? I wanted to get the rudder out so I can cut the skin off the transom and try to cut atleast one stringer out this week.
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  #39  
Old 01-16-2013, 08:14 AM
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yes, be careful of the top of the rudder - mine had some dings on the top of the rudder shaft that mushroomed it in a few places. I filed a bevel around the top of the rudder and it came out nicely. The bushing/rudder shaft is a close fit, so you don't want to force the shaft out.
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  #40  
Old 01-21-2013, 09:31 PM
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Deskinned the transom this afternoon. I was curious how the curve in the transom was made and it looks like the transom had some small relief cuts that allowed the bend.

I also cut out the left side primary and secondary stringers. I was debating cutting out/replacing the stringers one at a time, but some sloppy glassing from the previous floor replacement made up my mind. I want to be sure that I grind all of this out and smooth out the floor. Floor still seems very solid minus two stringers.

Still no progress on the rudder assembly. However, here are some images of the transom deskinned. I'll post some images of the stringer removal after I cut out the right side.







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