Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Audio/Stereo

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 09-03-2012, 12:45 PM
MC209's Avatar
MC209 MC209 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Boat: 2004 Mastercraft 209 Sammy Duvall
Location: Best State! Minnesota!
Posts: 317
In my last boat my whole stereo was car audio equipment and it worked great
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 09-04-2012, 01:56 PM
deminimis's Avatar
deminimis deminimis is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Boat: 2004 X-Star
Location: PNW
Posts: 700
Great thread. I'm either upgrading my tunes or my boat this Winter. Would like to buy car amps and take a bit of the pain out of a stereo upgrade. Since I trailer my boat to the water and is otherwise kept in my nice and dry shop, I'm thinking I'm going to be okay with car amps.
__________________
Never Mind The Bollocks, Here's The X-Star
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 09-04-2012, 03:04 PM
Granite_33's Avatar
Granite_33 Granite_33 is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Boat: X-9
Location: 20 min from the Big House
Posts: 789
I Put a JL XD600/6 in for my 4 in boat speakers and 2 tower speakers.
Added Kenwood KAC-9105D for my sub.

Neither one is a marine rated amp.

Mounted inside up off the floor. No problems at all.
__________________
04' X-9.
91' Maristar 210.
The bad thing about boats, is when they break, they break expensive.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 11-26-2012, 04:59 PM
dvsone79's Avatar
dvsone79 dvsone79 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Boat: '99 205V
Location: Bama
Posts: 262
I've got a Boss 4 channel "marine" amp running two tower speakers and a sub. It works well, but can get pretty hot. Anyone have any suggestions for fans? What/where to buy, how to power them, etc...

Edit: I may have come up with a solution. I ordered a 5", 12volt fan for $7 from sonicelectronics.com. I should be able to connect directly to the battery. Just need to figure out how to mount it to the amp. I still welcome other suggestions!

Last edited by dvsone79; 11-26-2012 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Answered my own question
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 11-26-2012, 05:18 PM
MLA MLA is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2012
Boat: pontoon
Location: Lake Wylie Area
Posts: 370
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvsone79 View Post
I've got a Boss 4 channel "marine" sub running two tower speakers and a sub. It works well, but can get pretty hot. Anyone have any suggestions for fans? What/where to buy, how to power them, etc...
Dvsone79,

An amp getting hot to the touch, is not abnormal, especially with a Class-A/B. Even the more efficient Class-D amps get hot. The heat generated can be attributed to a few external factors and may be addressable. Is the amp getting hot enough to shut down for a period?

Cable gauge feeding amp: too small for current draw x distance can effect the amps efficiency, resulting in added heat and quicker thermal shutdown.
Speaker load per amp chnl. What speakers and how many total is the amp driving? As the amp's load, measured in speaker(s) impedance, will determine the amps output (on a typical amp but not all), so as the impedance drops, the amp works harder. This means more heat produced.
Tuning. Gains too high and cross-over points too low can cause the amp to work harder. Reducing the gains, setting all the full-range speakers to Hi-Pass and upping the cross-over point will lighten the work load of the amp.

When needed, external fans will work. The trick is to get the air flowing from the bottom as heat rises. Also orienting the amps vertically, will allow the heat off the heat-sinks to rise up and off the amp. When mounted horizontally the heat from the bottom heat-sink rolls across the upper heat-sink, reducing its effectiveness. If fans are used, you need to construct it so you have fresh air coming in via one fan and a means to pull the hot air out. Simply blowing hot air from locker across the amps does little.

There are lots of 12V fans out there. They can be easily wired up with a relay that triggered when the amps turn on, or with a manual switch. If you dig enough, there are some temp sensors out there that will turn the fan on at a calibrated point.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 11-27-2012, 12:05 AM
dvsone79's Avatar
dvsone79 dvsone79 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Boat: '99 205V
Location: Bama
Posts: 262
Great info MLA. The amp is running two 100w tower speakers on channels 1 and 2, with channels 3 and 4 bridged to the sub. It gets hot to the touch, but hasn't shut off on me yet. The power cables are 4 gauge, and short in length, which I initially thought was overkill.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 11-27-2012, 12:10 AM
dvsone79's Avatar
dvsone79 dvsone79 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Boat: '99 205V
Location: Bama
Posts: 262
Also, iirc, I've got high pass turned on for the tower speakers and low pass for the sub.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:23 AM
MLA MLA is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: May 2012
Boat: pontoon
Location: Lake Wylie Area
Posts: 370
Great! I would not say that a pair of 4 ohm tower speakers on 1 half of the amp and a 4 ohm sub bridged on the other half is over taxing an amp by any means. If it was, you should be seeing the amp going into thermal shut down. 4ga power cabling is perfect. Hi-pass on the tower speakers is ideal. So far, I think everything is ok. If you are not seeing any issues playing it hard on a hot summer day, then I would worry about it being hot to the touch, which is normal. If it does, then you can look into some ventilation. One other trick I forgot to mentions is to mount the amp on some short stand-off is its mounted to a carpeted wall. This adds some additional air space.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 11-27-2012, 10:00 AM
EarmarkMarine's Avatar
EarmarkMarine EarmarkMarine is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Boat: TBD
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 518
Another cooling point worth mentioning is that an amplifier fan cover shroud will multiply a fans effectiveness many times. Otherwise, the fan mostly circulates air around the fan perimeter and pushes or pulls air a very short distance away from the fan. Ideally you would like to see the fan encompass the amplifier's entire heatsink surface area.
Most any thin, rigid material (.25" or so) can be used to create a fan shroud, such as wood, ABS, aluminum, plex, a cutting board, etc. The shroud would be the identical footprint of the amplifier and elevated above the heatsink by .5" with 'Z' (double 'L') brackets. The fan would be mounted in the center of the shroud.
Off on a bit of a tangent but related to amplifier heat....there are two seperate functions inside every amplifier. One is the DC to AC to DC switching power supply which is outside the signal path in most topologies. The other, the second, is the audio booster so to speak. As you halve the load resistance (impedance) you will increase the power on the audio booster side. But efficiency drops as the load becomes lower and with a drop in efficiency the ratio of heat generated to power produced to the speakers can get ugly. Now, on the power supply it is a fixed output with a definite ceiling. Ohm's Law no longer applies to the power supply side. It's forgiveable to load an amplifier down on half the channels but loading the amplifier down to the minimum on ALL channels will definitely tax the supply. The result? Voltage from the supply sags. And the amplifier works even less efficiently as the voltage drops. It's possible to load an amplifier down to get a 60 percent increase in power that can generate as much as 4 times the heat! So the initial system design and power management is a big part of it. Sure, fans can help dissipate heat but at the core more heat is an indication of wasted energy.

David
__________________
Earmark Marine
www.earmarkmarine.com
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 12-07-2012, 10:34 PM
dvsone79's Avatar
dvsone79 dvsone79 is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Boat: '99 205V
Location: Bama
Posts: 262
I've attached 3 5" 12volt fans on it, and wired them up with the positive wires going to the REM wire of the amp, and the negative going to the ground wire on the amp. I'm thinking that will cause them to turn on when the amp turns on, and turn off when the amp turns off.

It ain't pretty, but I think it will keep the amp significantly cooler.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:11 AM.