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  #11  
Old 11-26-2012, 09:25 AM
erervin erervin is offline
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Thanks Skyskiguy, this is the conclusion that I had come to. I'm going to order the new actuator and housing and have a local weld shop fab the connection.

Does anyone know what calipers are needed for this setup? Thinking I should just bite the bullet and replace them while I'm at it.
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  #12  
Old 11-26-2012, 09:34 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Think that's a great idea erervin. I have drum brakes on my 1995...rebuilt 50% of actuator, new flexible lines, new backing plates.
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  #13  
Old 11-26-2012, 10:05 AM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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I saw this on the California trailer site. Not sure if this is the same pivot mounting that MC uses but it might be a better option as you would have to reuse any of the plates. If it doesn't match up all you would need to have done would be to cut off the main tube bracket and weld on the new one.

http://caltrailerworks.com/online/pr...cat=156&page=1
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  #14  
Old 11-26-2012, 12:21 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
I saw this on the California trailer site. Not sure if this is the same pivot mounting that MC uses but it might be a better option as you would have to reuse any of the plates. If it doesn't match up all you would need to have done would be to cut off the main tube bracket and weld on the new one.

http://caltrailerworks.com/online/pr...cat=156&page=1
That's the one on my wish list...
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  #15  
Old 11-26-2012, 01:19 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
That's the one on my wish list...
This is the one I'm doing right now. Just finished up welding on the folding tongue last Wednesday before leaving for Thanksgiving. Turned out great, with the exception of it was not welded on perpendicular to the trailer. Off by a few degrees and looks like it's sagging in the middle (slightly). I'm going to bring it back tomorrow morning and have them cut it off and re-weld.

Can't wait for that conversation......

Overall though, very beefy and nice. The trailer company that welded it on was also impressed. All they had done in the past was the bolt on Fulton type.

I also got a new actuator, calipers, pads, rotors and bearings. Re-doing everything.

I plan on doing a write up in a few days once I get the tongue issue straightened out.
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  #16  
Old 11-26-2012, 01:44 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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I'd like to know if this is the one that MasterCraft uses and if I could bolt it straight up to my 07 MC trailer when the time comes. Based on the posts I've seen it would appear that this is not going to an "if" but a "when" situation.

I also find it hard to believe that Reliable manufactured their own brake components for the actuator. The design and the housing sure but the master cylinder and the shock? Really? Wouldn't you try and pick something up on the open market that was already available to save cost? While the calipers for boat trailers are (I believe) manufactured for trailers I've read that a lot of times the actual pads are automotive.
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  #17  
Old 11-26-2012, 02:53 PM
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Ski-me Ski-me is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
I'd like to know if this is the one that MasterCraft uses and if I could bolt it straight up to my 07 MC trailer when the time comes. Based on the posts I've seen it would appear that this is not going to an "if" but a "when" situation.

I also find it hard to believe that Reliable manufactured their own brake components for the actuator. The design and the housing sure but the master cylinder and the shock? Really? Wouldn't you try and pick something up on the open market that was already available to save cost? While the calipers for boat trailers are (I believe) manufactured for trailers I've read that a lot of times the actual pads are automotive.
On the manual that came with my DB-35 UFP calipers, it says at the the bottom that if needed, replacement pads can be found at any local autoparts store for a 1997-2000 Kia Sephia.
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  #18  
Old 11-26-2012, 07:08 PM
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bturner2 bturner2 is offline
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Now all we need is a master cylinder and shock and we can rebuild the actuator....
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  #19  
Old 11-26-2012, 07:16 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bturner2 View Post
Now all we need is a master cylinder and shock and we can rebuild the actuator....
I got a shock and cylinder from Pacifictrailer.com... can you post some pictures?
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  #20  
Old 11-26-2012, 09:52 PM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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[quote=bturner2;892291]I saw this on the California trailer site. Not sure if this is the same pivot mounting that MC uses but it might be a better option as you would have to reuse any of the plates. If it doesn't match up all you would need to have done would be to cut off the main tube bracket and weld on the new one.

http://caltrailerworks.com/online/pr...cat=156&page=1[/

Apparently, the bolt pattern of the UFP hinge is not the same as the Reliable, that's why the easiest fix seems to be to cut the Reliable actuator away from the hinge assembly and weld in a UFP outer member (this way you only have to take the actuator section to your local trailer shop to be painted). Alternatively, as stated above, cut away the entire thing, including hinge assembly, and weld on the UFP assembly from caltrailerworks (then drag the entire boat down to the shop to get the new parts painted). Also, I think the one from caltrailerworks is longer which could potentially cause a problem if your safety cables aren't long enough - or maybe they will fabricate it to what ever length you need to match your original?
Again, be sure to get the correct inner member for your particular set-up.
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