Is it water in the fuel?

[j.mccreight@hotmail.com]

Look worn out or possibly lean condition, could you detect any detonation while running? Is the insulator cracked? If carburetor or fuel pressure are not the problem you need to check initial timing and advance timing and switch to at least 89 AKI octane fuel.

[jfw432]

Well I never noticed any deto. The plugs have maybe 100 hours on them at most. The insulator isn't cracked but it sure has a lot of deposits on it for being so new.

I'll check on the timing and adjust timing/octane requirements as necessary.

[j.mccreight@hotmail.com]

Was there perhaps a large amount of "fuel additives" in the fuel tank, too many additives can leave deposits.

[jfw432]

No I never put any additives in my fuel except in the winter which was probably 300 gallons ago.

[cal69]

Can you first rule out any spark problems? I say this because I just solved a similar problem with a new to me 1992 PS 205. It would cut out after running it for about an hour or so, then not restart until it sat for 10-15 mins. I thought it was fuel and rebuilt the carb (had been sitting for 3 years prior to buying it), changed the filter, checked the tank & still the problem persisted. I checked for fuel delivery on the water when it conked out and it had a steady squirt from the carb. Put my hand on the coil and nearly burned it off. Changed out the coil and Pertronix unit and the problem went away.
Just something to consider.

[jfw432]

Well I can't imagine spark is the issue because the engine always fires back up and the more fuel I put down the engine, the longer it will run before conking out. I have dealt with many electrical problems in the past on boats, cars, and jetskis and this doesn't resemble any of those.

Thanks for the idea though.

[bsloop]

I installed a small liquid filled fuel pressure gauge just before the carb from Jeggs. It was maybe $30 and I can see fuel pressure at any rpm and while under load if I leave the cover off.

I was chasing a slow die condition too while at higher rpm / load. Turned out to be the anti-siphon valve was partially blocked. (small ball check valve at the fuel tank).
Under low demand conditions all was mostly ok, it was starving at higher fuel demands.

[psychobilly]

Originally Posted by jfw432

Well I can't imagine spark is the issue because the engine always fires back up and the more fuel I put down the engine, the longer it will run before conking out. I have dealt with many electrical problems in the past on boats, cars, and jetskis and this doesn't resemble any of those.

Thanks for the idea though.

I had the simular type issue that you're have and it was the oil pressure switch that run my fuel pump.... It has run great every since I replaced it.... It would have symptoms that you're describing and I couldn't find the issue until it finally crapped out.
Edit... Dope! I just seen your second reply that it a mechanical FP.
NEXT LOL