Automotive Paint Over/On Top Of Gel Coat

[College Kid]

Originally Posted by Kyle

I dont see anything wrong with the last pic in post #6



The top cap and the bottom hull should not be seamed together.

The boat is designed to be separated if need be.




The paint is really the only issue. Were is the foam missing?


Have you thought about just sanding the entire boat or possibly sanding where the two colors meet and just have a wrap put on......


A wrap will cost you tons and you can make it look pretty cool for a lot less cash.

Here is a couple of pictures to clear up the missing foam(sealer tape).

Kyle, you don't think that these screws should go through the hull as well as the top deck?

[mikeg205]

Are those machine screws or are they pointed like wood screws. There should be a rubber gasket in there. The windshield frame is screwed to the deck and there should be a foam gasket under the frame and a rubber strip covering the hole. My 1995 gas machine screws with brass nuts holding the windshield frame down. Are you missing the pictured rubber strip all the way around?

Is that side of your windshield connected to deck where screw hole is open?

[mikeg205]

Took some quick pictures of mine... the width of the rubber strip is 5/8" - you can check with www.jamestowndistributors.com to get a replacement roll. Very easy to install.

[mikeg205]

Here this may work...right width - 8 ft $20 plus frieght....

[kyfooter]

Are you certain after sanding, you'll need to re-gelcoat the entire boat? I can't imagine whoever decided to paint the boat actually sanded into the gelcoat first. Is there a chance you could just sand out the paint back down to the original gelcoat? Not saying there isn't a ton of labor involved, but it may not be as bad as you think.

[Thrall]

Looks like some shoddy body work. Lots of sand scratches and that stress crack that wasn't repaired properly.
Big question or deciding factor is how well is the paint adhering?
How long has it been painted?
If the paint is not peeling or de-laminating, I think the easiest and most economical would be to re-paint it.
Sand/repair the problem areas, scuff the rest of the boat and re-shoot it.
Is the bottom painted, or can you get away with the orig gel in the "hard to reach" areas, like the bottom of the hull and just repaint the hull sides and deck?

If painted correctly, it will be very durable and water resistant, just not as durable as gel coat.
Plus painting is something you can do yourself if you have a heated garage and are reasonably skilled. You could repaint the whole boat for less then $2k + labor if you have the big tools already.

[College Kid]

The screws are pointed like wood screws, yes, but that picture is taken at the stern above the gas tank showing the hull and top deck attaching, or not attaching.


The windsheild is only missing a chunk on the port side, the rest is filled with a foam type tape used for draft protection. I guess I will look at replacing all of it with a rubber style, that would look much better. Thanks for the pictures.

I agree it is pretty bad body work, not sure what I am gonig to find under all that paint hence why I am trying to figure out how to get it off with out doing damage to what ever is under.

I am really hoping not to have to re gel the boat but until I take the paint off I am not going to be sure what I am dealing with. It really looks like the only repairs that were done, were on the top deck not the hull. So I might get away with just removing what was done and re doing it with colour matched gel.

The boat is only painted on the top deck and the sides down to the gray strip.

I am going to do a little bit of wet sanding in a small out of the way area to see if I can figure out how thick the paint is as well as what condition the gel coat is under it?

[Kyle]

Originally Posted by College Kid

Here is a couple of pictures to clear up the missing foam(sealer tape).

Kyle, you don't think that these screws should go through the hull as well as the top deck?

Ok are the circled screws in the center that could be holding on the rub rail cap that says Mastercraft on it?


The screws on your boat do NOT hold the top cap and the hull together. Your boat has rivets and you can see them in the pic just left and right of your circle. Those hold the cap on the hull.

The screws if not holding on the rail cover in the center on the back are probably added after to hold the rail on or something. I would not worry about it.

[Kyle]

There is not way to sand the entire boat to get that "Maaco Paint Job" off of it, re-gel, or come back with a quality paint job for less then 5k. The amount of hours to just sand the entire boat will be extremely large. Then you end up having a 10K boat with 20k into it.

If you want to have something for your family that would look good the wrap is the way to go. Wrap it, use it, Sell it and some new owner will love it.

Unless you are emotionally attached to this boat be careful trying to fix the paint issue.


I know first hand how the project goes of trying to improve and make it better. Bought my boat 7 years ago. Over the last 7 years I have spent $16,000 in add ons and I have documentation to show for it... If you are wanting to be extremely upside down like I am then, by all means spend away.

Its sad that I have a 93' 190 that has so much in it. Its like I had to marry my boat because there is no way that I can take 10k for it now knowing that I have close to 25k-27k into it.

[Holman J.B.F]

just repaint the boat and don,t use automotive paints.
get marine paints like Inter- awl grip -sikkens - etc etc...a 2 part Poly urethane paint wil work and have a mirror gloss finish.

do not paint below the waterline unless you trailer the boat every trip if you leave it in the water any paint will blister,unless it is a epoxy primer topped off with a bottom paint anti-fouling.

you can have a brandnew looking boat for under 250 dollar,...all depending on your painting skills.