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#21
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More progress
An update from the weekend work - outer stringers are finally installed! Machine shop is working on pylon replacement and cutlass bearing is replaced. I also cleaned up the skegs, strut and rudder, getting them ready to reinstall. I also replaced the fuel tank blocks outboard of the exhaust.
The starboard was the first one in. I used US Composites medium cure epoxy with filler & 1/4" chopped glass to bed the stringers. The bedding was filled flush with the outside of the stringer and a fillet was made with epoxy and fairing compound - no glass. A plastic spoon was perfect for making a nice 3/8" radius fillet. The fiberglass layup is 4" 6oz cloth tape over the fillets then 12" 6oz cloth tape starting about 2" past the 4" on the hull then up and over the stringer. 18oz roving was the placed over everything, overlapping every 36". ![]() When I put the level across everything I found that the starboard factory stringer was about 1/2" higher than level... I think this is because the stringers are offset to the starboard side - MC might have just used the same template and the offset changes the height because the hull is not level. I don't plan to replicate the OEM height - everything will be at the same plane for flooring. ![]() ![]() The hardest part was the roving - this stuff does not like to bend, and it sucks up an incredible amount of epoxy. I found the best way to get the roving to conform was to drape it over a 2x4 the night prior and let it start to take the shape. I'd align the top section of the roving and then roll down each side, stretching the glass as I went. I did both layups at once so the epoxy was tacky for the next pass. It was a long day... Family vacation next week, so I will be on a beach dreaming about finishing my boat... |
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#22
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Bow Lifting Ring Details
Here's how the bow ring is installed (inside view)
![]() The white stuff is all of the dust from grinding fiberglass. |
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#23
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Back to work
Well, it's a month later and I've been on vacation and travelling for work. Slow going on getting the boat into the water. I keep telling myself it WILL be in for this summer!
Last weekend was a good push on getting the primary stringers cut and skegs/rudder/strut back in place. This weekend will be finishing the stringer install and start planning for support pipes to run wiring, fuel lines, etc. I found the sawzall with a long metal blade was perfect for cutting out the primary stringers. The fiberglass around the secondary stringers was either rotted or thinner because the oscillating multi-tool did great for the secondary, but struggled with the primary. Sawzall ripped right through it. ![]() ![]() Grinding sucks. Primary stringers were cut from 2x10x12' douglas fir. They sat in my garage at 35% humidity for a week before I put them in, so I'm hoping all is well and long lasting here. I used the same technique with the laser level as for the outside stringers. I used a protractor (thin plastic one with a hole in it) as a scribe - ball point pen through the hole and just followed the hull. Did this for both sides, cut and planed to the line and perfect fit. ![]() Today, primary stringers got bedded and filleted into the hull. Tomorrow, a full effort of fiberglass lay-up on both stringers. Lots of epoxy going down with two layers of roving to match the factory layup. ![]() |
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#24
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My new X-Star
My kids thought I was missing the boat being in the water. I am, of course, so they bought me another Mastercraft.
![]() Nice boat if I were the size of a Lego minifig... |
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#25
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Pylon update
My pylon was horribly corroded, so a replacement was in order. Jim @ BAWS was very helpful in looking up replacements, but there are no options for a direct replacement that looks like my old pylon.
So, off to the local machine shop for a quote. I need them to turn a new pylon, polish and fab the cross piece and remove the old pylon from the steel cross member. They're also welding on new nuts to the steel cross member. All for $350. Not too bad considering the lowest cost new pylon I could find was $290. The pylon will be just polished aluminum, so I'm going to have to look after the finish / corrosion. The bottom part will be lubed up with grease or neversieze, any ideas for alternatives or topside metal polish? Seems there are a lot of options for motorcycles that look good. I'm hoping to get the pylon first thing next week. |
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#26
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Your project looks great and you have covered all of the bases as far as I can see. Don't sweat the pylon... brushed or polished aluminum.. no big deal. They never clean or shine for long. The nature of aluminum. Good call on the fabrication at the shop. You got a good deal there.
I enjoy watching you work on the boat. Keep this thread update please. .
__________________
93 190 . Hypocrites, boot lickers, and crybabies…the world is full of them…. just look around - near-by . Duraflap / Kaydenco aren't worth a hoot Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8 . |
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#27
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Looking good. Keep up the good work.
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#28
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Quote:
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#29
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Just to let you know, you may already know, another trick with epoxy filler is to put it in an empty silicon tube to lay it in and then come back with the spoon.
Good job |
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#30
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@psycho- nice idea with the tube - I used a 1 gallon plastic bag, cut the corner and used it like a baker's icing bag. Worked nice, easy clean up.
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| Tags |
| 1979, floor, restoration, stringer |
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