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  #21  
Old 07-21-2012, 12:07 AM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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Well I have everything in the basement except a new filter and maybe the brass shrader valve. I am excited about trying the alternator, but I am not sure when we can get back up north.
What pressures should I be seeing at pump on, idle, 2k and WOT?
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  #22  
Old 07-25-2012, 12:09 PM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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The Napa fuel filters look like the case is made of aluminum. I was planning to solder on a schrader valve to a new fuel filter so that I can use a regular fuel pressure gauge to check my fuel pump. However, the aluminum case poses a problem. JB Weld may work, but I am not sure that would hold up to 40-50 psi? Maybe the female threaded connector could be drilled and tapped for 1/8" pipe thread for the schrader valve? Any other ideas?
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  #23  
Old 07-25-2012, 12:11 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhjgh View Post
The Napa fuel filters look like the case is made of aluminum. I was planning to solder on a schrader valve to a new fuel filter so that I can use a regular fuel pressure gauge to check my fuel pump. However, the aluminum case poses a problem. JB Weld may work, but I am not sure that would hold up to 40-50 psi? Maybe the female threaded connector could be drilled and tapped for 1/8" pipe thread for the schrader valve? Any other ideas?
Use a magnet to see if it's steel. If not, don't expect JB to hold. Great stuff, but I wouldn't use it for this. I would make up the brass T fitting. What about an AC or Fram filter? You want to be able to measure pressure while the engine is running at all speeds, not just when the key is ON.
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  #24  
Old 07-25-2012, 12:37 PM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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I will look at the filter a bit closer this evening. Too start with, it is a painted filter, but the connections looked like plated metal.
Do you happen to know the thread size on the filter so I could make the T-fitting?
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  #25  
Old 08-06-2012, 11:18 AM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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OK. The boat is 3 hours north and we went up this past weekend. I had a fuel pressure tester and a new fuel pump just in case. For reference, AutoZone will sell you a very nice fuel pressure tester (with the t-fitting if you do not have a schrader valve on the fuel rail), and your money is refunded after returning the tester.

I installed the new alternator (which seemed to have a larger pulley on it because the belt was extremely tight), and went looking for the key. After having to hot-wire the boat since the key was 3 hours south, it fired right up. The boat ran perfect all weekend for a family reunion, and the surging and cutting-out of the injectors were the result of a failing alternator. This seems strange since the boat battery never failed to charge and start the boat (until it finally failed a few weeks ago).

Anyway, thank you for all who posted and a special thanks to JimN who traded numerous emails with me when the problem first started.
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  #26  
Old 08-09-2012, 07:46 PM
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oshkarmeyer oshkarmeyer is offline
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I've been having identical problems to yours and was wondering what part number did you use for the new alternator and where did you get one? I figured an auto store would have a compatible one but wasn't sure. And did you replace the oil pressure sender or not? I'd like the part number for it as well.
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  #27  
Old 08-09-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by oshkarmeyer View Post
I've been having identical problems to yours and was wondering what part number did you use for the new alternator and where did you get one? I figured an auto store would have a compatible one but wasn't sure. And did you replace the oil pressure sender or not? I'd like the part number for it as well.
Why replace it when it can be rebuilt? It's less expensive and there's nothing to change. Have it checked out before you do anything.
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  #28  
Old 08-09-2012, 11:44 PM
jmhjgh jmhjgh is offline
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I brought mine to a shop that rebuilds starters and alternators. The capacitor had broken free of the clamp and took out the rotor and wires. The rebuild was going to be the same price as one off the shelf already rebuilt. I paid $85, but if it would have been a simple rebuild, it would have been closer to $50.
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  #29  
Old 08-10-2012, 12:38 AM
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oshkarmeyer oshkarmeyer is offline
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Gotcha. I will search around for a shop that does that then. Thanks guys.
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  #30  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:24 PM
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oshkarmeyer oshkarmeyer is offline
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shuts down once warm at 3,000 rpm

I am still having an issue (since last July) with my 2001 Prostar 205V (5.7 Indmar) sputtering and shutting down around ~3,000 rpm. Once it's warmed up it will backfire up through the throttle body, like a lean pop, and shut down.

I can run full throttle down the river for an hour, or idle at 5 mph for an hour and it won't act up.

But if you get in that sweet spot it will act up repeatedly, usually after a minute or two of starting up and going again.

So far I've put in new batteries, new battery cable ends, plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, ignition coil, pickup coil, injectors, fuel lines, fuel pump assembly, fuel pump (Airtek), checked red cutoff lanyard, had alternator rebuilt (it ended up not putting out correct voltage). My mechanic hooked up his laptop while I ran it down the river to check fuel pressure and all sensors. All checked great, 32 psi and all sensors were fine.

At this point the mechanic is thinking the ECM is needing replaced. He thinks the ECM is telling the injectors that the engine is at idle and that causes the injectors to shut down in an instant. He's willing to charge me the cost price for the ECM (~$700). I think he's ready to get the boat out of his shop!

If you guys have any other ideas I would love to hear them before I have to buy this ECM.

I'd also be more than willing to chat with someone on the phone instead, cell phone is 319-850-2826.

Thanks very much.

Last edited by oshkarmeyer; 02-25-2013 at 07:36 PM.
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