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  #21  
Old 06-16-2012, 09:30 PM
Micnic Micnic is offline
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Boat: 1990 Tristar 190, Ford 351
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Get used to it. Older boats always need something. Just be glad its all small stuff!!!
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2012, 02:28 AM
oldschool oldschool is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Boat: 1984 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
Location: Texas
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I seem to be having some electrical gremlins.. I am getting a zero reading on the ammeter and the battery will obviously not recharge. I've gone through the wiring on top of the block and it is an absolute nightmare, spliced and crimped all the way to the harness. I got my hands on a wiring diagram, purchased electronic ignition from pertronix (the II edition), a new solenoid just in case, and a new ballast resistor. I am not seeing the ballast resistor on the wiring diagram, nor was it hooked up on the boat. Will I still need that with the electronic ignition? I am getting nothing on the gauges currently as I think something became fried.. How do I reset the 40a breaker on the back? Would that even be necessary?
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2012, 09:34 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Boat: 1977 Stars & Stripes
Location: St. Paul, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool View Post
I seem to be having some electrical gremlins.. I am getting a zero reading on the ammeter and the battery will obviously not recharge. I've gone through the wiring on top of the block and it is an absolute nightmare, spliced and crimped all the way to the harness. I got my hands on a wiring diagram, purchased electronic ignition from pertronix (the II edition), a new solenoid just in case, and a new ballast resistor. I am not seeing the ballast resistor on the wiring diagram, nor was it hooked up on the boat. Will I still need that with the electronic ignition? I am getting nothing on the gauges currently as I think something became fried.. How do I reset the 40a breaker on the back? Would that even be necessary?
I have the Pertronix Ignitor II and the Flamethrower coil. With that combination, Pertronix says not to use the ballast resistor and mine works great that way.

Electrical connections on an old boat are all suspect. I would start by disconnecting every connection you can, cleaning it up, and re-assembling it with a dab of dielectric grease to keep the corrosion out.
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  #24  
Old 06-27-2012, 04:48 PM
oldschool oldschool is offline
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Thanks for the ballast resistor tip, I guess I'll keep it in case I ever have to go back to points ignition. Looks like my day has filled up, headed to check the wires.
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  #25  
Old 06-29-2012, 04:23 PM
oldschool oldschool is offline
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Boat: 1984 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
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Does anybody know what the I terminal connects directly to on the solenoid? I know I've got a shirt wire about 4 inches long but it's the only wire my picture doesn't show it's path. I'm fairly certain it's for ignition.
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  #26  
Old 06-29-2012, 04:24 PM
oldschool oldschool is offline
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Short*
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  #27  
Old 07-09-2012, 03:01 PM
oldschool oldschool is offline
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I still can't get any power to the dash.. Would a bad ammeter be suspect? I'm taking that off today but after that I am completely out of ideas on what the problem could be. Is there a hidden fuse bewteen the engine and the dash besides the 40A breaker?
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  #28  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:11 AM
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cptskier15 cptskier15 is offline
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Looks hectic! I have not read all the posts in full yet so forgive me if I repeat some stuff.

We have had ours boat for 15 years, only now is it running 110%!!!

Things to replace which cost nothing and save you tons of time:
- Get new distributor cap and rotor, small amount of play messes with timing.
- Replace fuel line.
- Check the fuel filter in the pick up in the tank (blockages can give headaches)
- Proper set of plug leads
- New leads from battery to starter motor.

Everything else gets a little more pricey :P

Last edited by cptskier15; 07-19-2012 at 09:14 AM.
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  #29  
Old 07-19-2012, 09:25 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cptskier15 View Post
Looks hectic! I have not read all the posts in full yet so forgive me if I repeat some stuff.

We have had ours boat for 15 years, only now is it running 110%!!!

Things to replace which cost nothing and save you tons of time:
- Get new distributor cap and rotor, small amount of play messes with timing.
- Replace fuel line.
- Check the fuel filter in the pick up in the tank (blockages can give headaches)
- Proper set of plug leads
- New leads from battery to starter motor.

Everything else gets a little more pricey :P
It is truly important to have all the basics taken care of first. The only thing I would add to your list is spark plugs.
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2 Aluminum 14x5.5 wheels, 2 ST205/75R14 tires, mount, balance & delivery.


CARB REBUILDING - FAST TURN-AROUND - $125 +PARTS
LED lights, Hubs, Spare Tire Carriers, Chrome & Powder Coated Lug Nuts - Red, Blue & Black


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  #30  
Old 07-19-2012, 07:21 PM
oldschool oldschool is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Boat: 1984 Mastercraft Stars and Stripes
Location: Texas
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I am the dumbest smart person here.. After fumbling with rewiring and replacing 90 percent of the electrical system it was a tube fuse in the dash. I can admit i'm used to the blade type fuses and have never owned a vehicle (much less boat) that uses these tube fuses. The alternator I bought was f'ed from the get go so that caused several problems. I'll certainly be changing the cap, wires, and plugs just to be thorough. Thanks again for the usual help, would've spent a bazillion dollars at the mastercraft house by now.
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