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  #1  
Old 05-05-2012, 09:52 PM
1993bluestarsnstripes 1993bluestarsnstripes is offline
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Boat: mastercraft prostar,1993 285 hp.,
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1993 metal flake oxidation

what can be done if the oxidated metal flaked area is too far gone?
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  #2  
Old 05-05-2012, 10:54 PM
EricB EricB is offline
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Boat: 77 S&S, 1983 S&& PS, and now a 98 Anniversary S&S LT1 PS
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Define what you mean by "too far gone". Post some pics. It may be past the do-it-yourselfer stage, but there are some places I know of that can fix the flake up as good as new.
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Old 05-06-2012, 05:11 PM
1993bluestarsnstripes 1993bluestarsnstripes is offline
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metal flake oxidation

EricB, What I mean by "too far gone" is that I am looking at a boat to buy that has red metal flake that is badly oxidized; I know some can be buffed out however I don't want to find out after buying it that it can't be brought back to life. In this senario am I going to be stuck with a dull metal flaked mastercraft or can the old fiberglass be re-flaked from ground up?
joeski1157@yahoo.com
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  #4  
Old 05-06-2012, 05:32 PM
EricB EricB is offline
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I'm not sure where you are located, but I know of 2 marine fiberglass repair shops that can specialize in metalflake restoration. Both are located close to the Twin cities.

Another less expensive alternative is to clear-coat the stripe. The clear will bring back the color and shine and last along time (I'm talking years, not months). I had significant fading/oxidation on my 1977 and my 1983. I clear coated both boats and they turned out great. Plus the new clears have UV protectors in them. Clear coating will run abot $500 if you prep the boat yourself and have it professionally shot.
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  #5  
Old 05-06-2012, 05:38 PM
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Lumbergh Lumbergh is offline
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Seriously, who can get enough metal flake S&S action?
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  #6  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:40 AM
1993bluestarsnstripes 1993bluestarsnstripes is offline
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red metal flake oxidation

Here are some of the pics of the oxidation.
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  #7  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:43 AM
1993bluestarsnstripes 1993bluestarsnstripes is offline
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These are the pics of the red metal flake oxidation.
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  #8  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:57 AM
EricB EricB is offline
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Unfortunately, clear coat will not eliminate the difference between the decal and non-decal areas, but it will bring bacl alot of the color and all the shine. It depends on how much you want to spend. If you wet sand and buff, you will get deeper into the flake that is already close to the surface. Clear coating or re-gelling seem to be your options.
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  #9  
Old 05-07-2012, 09:13 AM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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I'd add that just about any boat is going to have near perfect gel coat where decals once were. I have often heard this referred to as ghosting. Of course, you can really see the contrast between brand new and nineteen years worth of use. Maybe I'm wrong and it looks worse in person. But while they are off, I would take it to a good boat repair/detailing shop and get it buffed out tip to stern. If, at that point, it is just barely noticeable, get a good decal person to lay on the replacements exactly where they were and my bet is it will look brand new.

I had this done to my boat, which, when I got it, exhibited fade a little worse than this. When we removed the decals, there was some ghosting. But it looks like new at this point an has never had anything more than wax since then.

This is after buffing with the decals removed. Picture wasn't taken to highlight that. So you have to look carefully.



This is after the new decals and pin striping were applied.



I know it's not metal flake. But you get the idea.
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  #10  
Old 05-07-2012, 09:16 AM
mayo93prostar mayo93prostar is offline
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93 blue, I do not think that is that bad. I think either super duty rubbing compound or as far as wet sanding will get that oxidation out. I just buffed up my 93 blue stars and stripes with 3M Super Duty Rubbing compound, then 3M Finesse It, and then some wax and it got rid of some severe oxidation on the stern of my boat. I also saw the results of my neighbor starting at wetsanding and then the same as I did on a 1982 red stars and stripes and it came up very well. I recommend first try the rubbing compound before wet sanding. Here are some pics of the work I did this past weekend on the back of my boat as described above. In the first pic, I just did rubbing compound to the right of the star and you can see the oxidation to the left of the star. The second pic is after the finesse and wax. The oxidation is gone. I did the finesse all the way up the side and it looks alot better now. I used a basic craftsman random orbital buffer with a wool pad for the compound and a terry cloth pad for the finesse.
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