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  #11  
Old 04-30-2012, 12:16 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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An open intake manifold will allow rain water to run directly into the cylinders with open intake valves. Guarantees water would be in a couple cylinders. Now......did it freeze in there?
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2012, 12:21 PM
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Jerseydave Jerseydave is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
Wouldnt that mean the water was like 3 feet deep inside the boat? Makes me sad thinking that is possible. I didnt see a water line or anything like that on the interior, but maybe its there. I'll look at that once the motor is apart completely.
It's very possible.....look at the corrosion on the outside of your distributor.
Check you wiring harness that goes to the engine for corrosion/green on wire terminals. Does the starter look like it's been under water? Also go under the dash and look for possible corrosion there as well.

Was the engine sitting out in the open weather while it was in the boat? (like with no engine box on it?)
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2012, 12:35 PM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
An open intake manifold will allow rain water to run directly into the cylinders with open intake valves. Guarantees water would be in a couple cylinders. Now......did it freeze in there?
Id bee about 99% sure it didnt freeze in there, this boat was from a lake near destin, fl, its very rare for us to be in that cold of weather long enough for water to freeze.


I dont have a starter to look at, it didnt come with the motor. I dont have a clear history of what conditions it sat. Based on the looks of it, Im going on assuming the whole motor was basically under water at some point, or at least in a really heavy rain storm without the engine cover on, and with the carb off.
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2012, 12:56 PM
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rjracin240 rjracin240 is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft ProStar 190 1988 351 Wheezer
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Cool looking project, would not sweat the little bit of water in the cylinders after all you said the surface rust wiped up!
Would finish the tear down looking for any obvious signs of damage then take it down to the machine shop and have everything checked to see if you can get away with a honing or if you need to bore it. Since you have it stripped this far would go to your local Pick-N-Pull and get yourself a set of GT-40 heads for about $80-100 for the set and build those. There are several aftermarket intakes that are available that are pretty inexpensive, which would be a good resale point as well as the improvements they would give. DB Electrical was a inexpensive source for me when I bought a starter that is now going on its third season. They also sell alternators!
For your distributor it could probably be dissasembled and hit with a blast in a blasting cabinet and then reassembled with new bearigs or bushings.
As for the exterior corrosion under the engine cover; keep in mind that if it has been sitting as long as you say it has there has been plenty of condensation taking place in there leading to some ideal conditions for the surface corrosion you have observed.
During your teardown process take a look at the wiring as well to see how far back the corrosion might go in the wiring jacket.
Where abouts are you located in Florida, I have some extra gages; PM me if interested.
Hopefully you bought the boat for a couple grand or less leaving you lots of expense money to stay in the green with when you go for resale.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2012, 01:09 PM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjracin240 View Post
Cool looking project, would not sweat the little bit of water in the cylinders after all you said the surface rust wiped up!
Would finish the tear down looking for any obvious signs of damage then take it down to the machine shop and have everything checked to see if you can get away with a honing or if you need to bore it. Since you have it stripped this far would go to your local Pick-N-Pull and get yourself a set of GT-40 heads for about $80-100 for the set and build those. There are several aftermarket intakes that are available that are pretty inexpensive, which would be a good resale point as well as the improvements they would give. DB Electrical was a inexpensive source for me when I bought a starter that is now going on its third season. They also sell alternators!
For your distributor it could probably be dissasembled and hit with a blast in a blasting cabinet and then reassembled with new bearigs or bushings.
As for the exterior corrosion under the engine cover; keep in mind that if it has been sitting as long as you say it has there has been plenty of condensation taking place in there leading to some ideal conditions for the surface corrosion you have observed.
During your teardown process take a look at the wiring as well to see how far back the corrosion might go in the wiring jacket.
Where abouts are you located in Florida, I have some extra gages; PM me if interested.
Hopefully you bought the boat for a couple grand or less leaving you lots of expense money to stay in the green with when you go for resale.

Whats the benefit of the GT-40 Heads? Id rather not spend anything extra if I dont need to. Im located in Tallahassee, Fl. I dont know what condition the gauges are in yet, will take a look at those with time. I may be interested in new ones if I need them, at that time. I paid 1,100 for it all. I have a bunch of room to stay in the green so to speak. However, I dont really plan on selling it once its done, I may just have to keep it forever .
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2012, 07:44 PM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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Boat: ProStar 190, 1989, 351W
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Great looking project boat! Most engine parts are readily available and not too expensive, tranny too. Gauges and dash parts can be more difficult to find, but are out there.

The trailer doesn't look original, does it have bunk boards or rollers? Almost looks like rollers in the picture.
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  #17  
Old 05-01-2012, 12:31 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d2jp View Post
Great looking project boat! Most engine parts are readily available and not too expensive, tranny too. Gauges and dash parts can be more difficult to find, but are out there.

The trailer doesn't look original, does it have bunk boards or rollers? Almost looks like rollers in the picture.

The trailer is not original. The guy said he bought the boat with the original trailer, and the trailer actually collapsed on the drive home, so he had to replace it. He gave me the fiberglass fenders from the original trailer, which Im selling. This trailer is largely solid, but does have some cancer, and will be repaired once the boat is done.
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  #18  
Old 05-01-2012, 01:11 AM
nkorep2 nkorep2 is offline
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Boat: 1990 Prostar, 351 Windsor
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Day 2:

I got a chance this evening to work on the motor some more. I removed all of the lifters, which all seem to be in great shape. I pulled the crankshaft dampener, or whatever its called, then pulled the timing chain cover. Everything looks pretty good. Should I replace the timing chain and sprockets?



Here's an attempt to show how loose the chain is. Im pushing it to the right in this image.





I then drained the oil pan and saw water in it, which is expected, considering it was also in the cylinders. I then flipped the entire block over, and proceeded to remove the oil pan.



The interior looks pretty dang good. There isnt any obvious issues, and Im assuming there really arent going to be any not so obvious issues either. Im planning on taking the interior components apart on friday, and prepare the block for the machine shop. Ill do all bearings and such, I wonder if I can get away fine with just a honing of the cylinders, or if they must be bored? Ill replace the oil pump also, foolish not to since I have access to it now.


I then proceeded to use the pressure washer a little bit to clean the oil pan. As I did so, the paint began to flake off, and a layer of surface rust under the paint began to show. I dont have the pics of that, however, I do know that Ill end up sandblasting the entire pan and repainting it now.

I wasnt ready to call it quits yet, so I went ahead and started dismantling the engine mounts. The rubber bushings seems to be in great condition, so I think I'll simply reuse them. The metal will get sand blasted and repainted. Then the mounts will be reassembled.

Heres a pic I took to remind myself of how they are assembled.



How do you remove the remaining parts. I removed the nuts off the two bolts, but the bolts dont slide out in either direction. Im a little confused on what to do here. I wanna disassemble it completely to make sure there isnt corrosion where I dont want it.



And thats where Im at now. Here's an image of the fenders I dont have a use for just for kicks. On Friday I plan on completing the dismantling of the motor, and prepping it to go to the machine shop, I may consider working on cleaning up the motor mounts too, we'll see how ambitious i get.



The black spots are where the previous owner had to torch the bolts in order to remove them from the old trailer, which was a POS. It rubs off quite easily. Im not gonna use them, so Im not overly concerned.
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  #19  
Old 05-01-2012, 08:10 AM
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SkiDog SkiDog is offline
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Boat: 92 Prostar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nkorep2 View Post
Day 2:

I got a chance this evening to work on the motor some more. I removed all of the lifters, which all seem to be in great shape. I pulled the crankshaft dampener, or whatever its called, then pulled the timing chain cover. Everything looks pretty good. Should I replace the timing chain and sprockets?



Here's an attempt to show how loose the chain is. Im pushing it to the right in this image.





I then drained the oil pan and saw water in it, which is expected, considering it was also in the cylinders. I then flipped the entire block over, and proceeded to remove the oil pan.



The interior looks pretty dang good. There isnt any obvious issues, and Im assuming there really arent going to be any not so obvious issues either. Im planning on taking the interior components apart on friday, and prepare the block for the machine shop. Ill do all bearings and such, I wonder if I can get away fine with just a honing of the cylinders, or if they must be bored? Ill replace the oil pump also, foolish not to since I have access to it now.


I then proceeded to use the pressure washer a little bit to clean the oil pan. As I did so, the paint began to flake off, and a layer of surface rust under the paint began to show. I dont have the pics of that, however, I do know that Ill end up sandblasting the entire pan and repainting it now.

I wasnt ready to call it quits yet, so I went ahead and started dismantling the engine mounts. The rubber bushings seems to be in great condition, so I think I'll simply reuse them. The metal will get sand blasted and repainted. Then the mounts will be reassembled.

Heres a pic I took to remind myself of how they are assembled.



How do you remove the remaining parts. I removed the nuts off the two bolts, but the bolts dont slide out in either direction. Im a little confused on what to do here. I wanna disassemble it completely to make sure there isnt corrosion where I dont want it.



And thats where Im at now. Here's an image of the fenders I dont have a use for just for kicks. On Friday I plan on completing the dismantling of the motor, and prepping it to go to the machine shop, I may consider working on cleaning up the motor mounts too, we'll see how ambitious i get.



The black spots are where the previous owner had to torch the bolts in order to remove them from the old trailer, which was a POS. It rubs off quite easily. Im not gonna use them, so Im not overly concerned.
I'm sure there's somebody on here that would like to have those fenders.
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  #20  
Old 05-01-2012, 01:17 PM
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tideengineer tideengineer is offline
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Boat: 1996 Prostar 190 LT1
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Posts: 551
where r u located? I am pretty close to Destin...interested to know where that boat was located....saw one like it halfway sink on our lake when it attempted to run through 12" of water...had to pull all our t-shirts off to plug the holes created in the bottom of the boat...then help retrieve the rudder, shaft, etc....

it was a shame because the boat was brand new then....
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