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  #21  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:54 PM
jamisonsbrodie jamisonsbrodie is offline
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The Tournament lakes around here are all 1900-2100, which seems perfect to me. 2000 is ideal for slalom IMO. You don't want it too long, otherwise wind will affect it more. Width should be 225- 300, otherwise you won't be able to get the proper slope, and on the ends, you need 275+ to turn around properly without having to crank it too hard, as well as having the proper slope there as well. Depth depends on your needs. If it is just for slalom, than 8 feet is plenty in the middle and 5-6 feet at the turn bouys, but if you plan to stock it with fish and/or wakeboard you will need 10-11 feet. Turn-around islands are a must if you want to do it right, otherwise you will get rollers down the course. They do add a bit of work and cost, as you need to riprap them with rock. When it comes to slope, the gentler the better at the edge, whereas it can be steeper out further.

Last edited by jamisonsbrodie; 04-27-2012 at 03:13 PM.
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  #22  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:07 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamisonsbrodie View Post
The Tournament lakes around here are all 1900-2100, which seems perfect to me. 2000 is ideal IMO. You don't want it too long, otherwise wind will affect it more. Depth depends on your needs. If it is just for slalom, than 8 feet is plenty in the middle and 5-6 feet at the turn bouys, but if you plan to stock it with fish and/or wakeboard you will need 10-11 feet. Turn-around islands are a must if you want to do it right, otherwise you will get rollers down the course. They do add a bit of work and cost, as you need to riprap them with rock. When it comes to slope, the gentler the better at the edge, whereas it can be steeper out further.
I was in the process of adding a lot to my post above after you responded, but the way I understand it, width is going to have more of an effect on how much damage wind can do with rollers than length. 2,000' is fine, but I know people with 2,000' lakes that wish they had more room to get up and running. Of course, make it too long and you are burning more gas per set. With 2,000' and 55m buoys, you have 393' on either side to get up and running. It's enough, but in a perfect world, I'd love another 100 feet or so on each side.

Unless you are doing turn-arounds at the end of the course, I still think turn islands are more trouble than they're worth. It's easier to just not do down and backs or turn-arounds, but rather, drop at each end. That's just me. Dropping is my preference anyway.

As for depth, if drought is possible, go deep out to the balls. We had a horrible drought here last summer, but a local ski school kept skiing because his lake was cut 12' deep out to the turn balls. If you are on a well or a spring, you can afford to go shallower. But with shallower water comes the ability for sunlight to reach the bottom, making vegetation more likely. Lots of trade offs there.
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Last edited by east tx skier; 04-27-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:14 PM
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A private ski lake, the dream of most on here.......
Given all the money in the world and a team of people to maintain it for me, yes. Without that, no thanks. I'll pay dues.
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  #24  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:19 PM
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This may help you, numbers are in feet. I see you want it 11 feet deep in the middle, then change the numbers on the bottom row to reflect your depths.
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  #25  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:23 PM
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That's great! I looked high and low for that diagram and couldn't find it.
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  #26  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:24 PM
jamisonsbrodie jamisonsbrodie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
I was in the process of adding a lot to my post above after you responded, but the way I understand it, width is going to have more of an effect on how much damage wind can do with rollers than length. 2,000' is fine, but I know people with 2,000' lakes that wish they had more room to get up and running. Of course, make it too long and you are burning more gas per set. With 2,000' and 55m buoys, you have 393' on either side to get up and running. It's enough, but in a perfect world, I'd love another 100 feet or so on each side.

Unless you are doing turn-arounds at the end of the course, I still think turn islands are more trouble than they're worth. It's easier to just not do down and backs or turn-arounds, but rather, drop at each end. That's just me. Dropping is my preference anyway. As for depth, if drought is possible, go deep out to the balls. We had a horrible drought here last summer, but a local ski school kept skiing because his lake was cut 12' deep out to the turn balls. If you are on a well or a spring, you can afford to go shallower. But with shallower water comes the ability for sunlight to reach the bottom, making vegetation more likely. Lots of trade offs there.
225-250 is ideal through the center of the course, but needs to be wider on the ends to get the proper slope and turning radius regardless of island or not. The turn island helps with not only the continuous turn-arounds, but also when you drop, because you take off heading away from the course and go around the island before you head down course, which eliminates the possibility of bow rollers (which are ever so present in MC's. ETS, you don't have to worry about bow rollers because fortunately your current boat doesn't have them). FWIW, I too prefer to drop and do so 99.9% of the time

Also, The deeper you go out to the balls, the wider the lake has to be to get the proper slope.

The biggest tournament lake around here is 300 by 2200 with no turn islands and it gets blown out alot. It sits right next to one that is 225 down the center, 300 on the ends (with turn islands) and 2000 feet long and it gets much more use.

Last edited by jamisonsbrodie; 04-27-2012 at 03:58 PM.
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  #27  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:41 PM
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ETS, your normally quick on the trigger. Can't hardly believe I beat you to it.
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  #28  
Old 04-27-2012, 03:51 PM
jamisonsbrodie jamisonsbrodie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J NORRIS View Post
Attachment 78055
This may help you, numbers are in feet. I see you want it 11 feet deep in the middle, then change the numbers on the bottom row to reflect your depths.
Nice find. Based on that design, the minimum width from waterline to water line would be 219 feet assuming the depth turns up 10 feet outside the bouy line. (56+6+10+75(course)+10+6+56=219)

Man, I am not getting anything done today

EDIT: We all need to go skiing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Last edited by jamisonsbrodie; 04-27-2012 at 03:59 PM.
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  #29  
Old 04-27-2012, 04:13 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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1 hour, 47 minutes until I do. My boat is parked outside the office.

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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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  #30  
Old 04-27-2012, 04:16 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamisonsbrodie View Post
225-250 is ideal through the center of the course, but needs to be wider on the ends to get the proper slope and turning radius regardless of island or not. The turn island helps with not only the continuous turn-arounds, but also when you drop, because you take off heading away from the course and go around the island before you head down course, which eliminates the possibility of bow rollers (which are ever so present in MC's. ETS, you don't have to worry about bow rollers because fortunately your current boat doesn't have them). FWIW, I too prefer to drop and do so 99.9% of the time

Also, The deeper you go out to the balls, the wider the lake has to be to get the proper slope.

The biggest tournament lake around here is 300 by 2200 with no turn islands and it gets blown out a lot. It sits right next to one that is 225 down the center, 300 on the ends (with turn islands) and 2000 feet long and it gets much more use.

I assumed a barbell shape. Make it longer and no need to start off in a turn.

Good point about deep out to the balls requiring more width for a good slope.

I still say go long and plant lots of trees to deal with the wind.
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To me, this forum is about love of inboard boats. It is about the sharing of information and, on a good day, some humor. It is not about post count, brand of boat, or any other superfluous labels that lend themselves to a false sense of superiority. Please, respect one another, try to pass on accurate information, and keep your eye on the ball.
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