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  #11  
Old 04-17-2012, 10:42 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by Jeff d View Post
So, I just received my new ignition switch from SkiDim and here's something pretty crazy: The key is a 100% identical blank and cut compared to my OEM ignition switch and key from 2000. Not sure what the chances of that are. It's a Sierra part but I guess it's really a Cole-Hearse switch since that's what the branded OEM keys that came with the boat have stamped on them.
Remember when someone found out that GM only used a small number of keys fro all models? This is basically the same thing- you can't have a high number of varieties when you use a short key with only a small number of tumblers.
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2012, 09:33 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Well, this seems to be resolved. It's hard to say definitively what it was since I didn't use the proper scientific method but I think it was like Brian B said (via PM/ his similar thread), it was moisture in the ignition coil area causing arcing and what not. Disassembled everything and applied dielectric grease then reassembled and replaced the sparkplug wires. I picked up an extra 2 MPH or so (GPS verified) and got to over 44 MPH too. I don't think I've ever gotten above 42.X before.

I'm thinking about adding a thick piece of foam weather stripping along the rear of the engine compartment where the sundeck closes. There's a little "gutter" there to try to keep the water from gushing over into the engine compartment but it's obviously not enough because it still gets wet. I'm reasonably certain it's not coming from the water pumps either because they don't leak a drop at idle or fast idle. If I seal it off to some extent then the water will either flow back out or go down the bilge vents all the way to the floor without splashing on the engine.

Checking/Cleaning the ECU connector like mtajpa said was my next move but I guess I don't need to do that now. Mine actually does have a cover over it though.

The other potentially related factor was the hardened plastic fuel line in the in tank module. It was badly and permanently kinked and had to be restricting flow by 60+%. Replaced that with a 1/4" piece of high pressure fuel injection Ethanol rated hose. Ran great today with two uncomfortably long WOT runs (I hate doing that to an engine for more than a few seconds) to be sure.

That Jegs 8.5 mm wire set and the cheap MSD crimp tool worked out great though. You have to have access to a vice to use the crimp tool but it gives an OEM quality crimp. I checked each wire after making it with an ohm meter and they were pretty much exactly 500 ohms per ft every time. I did notice when at Pep Boys last weekend that I could have gotten similar universal/DIY crimp V8 wire sets for a bit cheaper than Jegs though especially when you factory in the Jegs $10 "handling fee" after supposedly "free shipping".

Last edited by Jeff d; 04-28-2012 at 09:44 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-18-2012, 08:04 AM
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Join Date: May 2012
Boat: 2007 MasterCraft X2
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Similar issue

Good morning....I just experienced a similar issue with my "new to me" 2007 X2. We just took it out on the water to see what she could. Somewhere arond 5400 RPM, I felt a power drop and my speed reduced to 25ish MPH.

Any chance there is a rev limiter on the 07 X2?

Just before this outing, the only other change I made was install a new prop (14.75 X 15.5...recommended by OJ). Could that have any effect?

I appreciate anyone's input.
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  #14  
Old 05-18-2012, 09:56 AM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff d View Post
Well, this seems to be resolved. It's hard to say definitively what it was since I didn't use the proper scientific method but I think it was like Brian B said (via PM/ his similar thread), it was moisture in the ignition coil area causing arcing and what not. Disassembled everything and applied dielectric grease then reassembled and replaced the sparkplug wires. I picked up an extra 2 MPH or so (GPS verified) and got to over 44 MPH too. I don't think I've ever gotten above 42.X before.

I'm thinking about adding a thick piece of foam weather stripping along the rear of the engine compartment where the sundeck closes. There's a little "gutter" there to try to keep the water from gushing over into the engine compartment but it's obviously not enough because it still gets wet. I'm reasonably certain it's not coming from the water pumps either because they don't leak a drop at idle or fast idle. If I seal it off to some extent then the water will either flow back out or go down the bilge vents all the way to the floor without splashing on the engine.

Checking/Cleaning the ECU connector like mtajpa said was my next move but I guess I don't need to do that now. Mine actually does have a cover over it though.

The other potentially related factor was the hardened plastic fuel line in the in tank module. It was badly and permanently kinked and had to be restricting flow by 60+%. Replaced that with a 1/4" piece of high pressure fuel injection Ethanol rated hose. Ran great today with two uncomfortably long WOT runs (I hate doing that to an engine for more than a few seconds) to be sure.

That Jegs 8.5 mm wire set and the cheap MSD crimp tool worked out great though. You have to have access to a vice to use the crimp tool but it gives an OEM quality crimp. I checked each wire after making it with an ohm meter and they were pretty much exactly 500 ohms per ft every time. I did notice when at Pep Boys last weekend that I could have gotten similar universal/DIY crimp V8 wire sets for a bit cheaper than Jegs though especially when you factory in the Jegs $10 "handling fee" after supposedly "free shipping".
DO NOT use the DIY crimp on wires if you don't have the correct crimper. Also, DIY wires can be problematic because these boats run at significantly higher RPM than a street-driven car and that means using an Ohmmeter to check plug wires means exactly squat. It may idle fine but at high RPM, they can't conduct high frequency and that's where a good set of plug wires really shines.

You don't need Jeg's, but you do need a good set. The OEM are from Taylor, or used to, anyway. I have a Chevy Silverado with the 5.7L TBI and bought my wires at O'Reilley's- they have a lifetime warranty and were about $35.
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