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Old 04-17-2012, 10:31 AM
shunra shunra is offline
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New Master Cylinder?

Anyone know where I can get a new master cylinder for the surge brakes on my 2006 X15 trailer? The front seal is toast on mine and it leaked water into it. It is now very rusty and pitted.

The part is made by Relilable part number MC-001M but they say they no longer carry it. Seems pretty soon to be discontinuing parts off a 2006 but whatever.

Any help sourcing this part would be appreciated.
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:29 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shunra View Post
Anyone know where I can get a new master cylinder for the surge brakes on my 2006 X15 trailer? The front seal is toast on mine and it leaked water into it. It is now very rusty and pitted.

The part is made by Relilable part number MC-001M but they say they no longer carry it. Seems pretty soon to be discontinuing parts off a 2006 but whatever.

Any help sourcing this part would be appreciated.
www.pacifictrailers.com
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  #3  
Old 04-17-2012, 01:35 PM
jab jab is offline
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I just cut the tongue off my 2006 trailer since Reliable no longer manufactures the parts. My dealer could get a master cylinder and shock absorber through Mastercraft, they must have some back stock on them. I ended up changing it out for a bolt on swing away tongue for about the same price.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:40 PM
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Brian B Brian B is offline
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These guys had every replacement part I needed to rebuild my entire braking system on my MC trailer last summer. Replacing the master, and shock absorber is a PITA btw... I believe you can buy the whole swing away assembly, and I would recommend doing that as opposed to rebuilding it yourself. You want to open all your bleeders on the calipers and pump brake cleaner throughout the system.

Good luck!

http://www.spectrac.com/
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Old 04-17-2012, 11:10 PM
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AZX9 AZX9 is offline
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Just had to replace mine as well. Trailer shop cut off the old one and welded a new actuator on in the same swivel mechanism. You will need to replace the calipers as well and the backup cylinoid. They will be corroded as well.
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Old 04-25-2012, 02:59 PM
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rgardjr1 rgardjr1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jab View Post
I just cut the tongue off my 2006 trailer since Reliable no longer manufactures the parts. My dealer could get a master cylinder and shock absorber through Mastercraft, they must have some back stock on them. I ended up changing it out for a bolt on swing away tongue for about the same price.
Do you have any pictures of the new actuator? What brand did you go with? I called about getting a replacement shock and bushings for mine, but was told I had to buy the whole actuator assembly for $712.67. Yea, No Thanks Mastercraft ...
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Old 04-25-2012, 06:23 PM
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I just ordered a UFP A-60 brake actuator and weld on outer sleeve. Not sure if I can modify the existing swing away tongue to work with the brake actuator or if I'll have to cut it off and weld the outer sleeve onto the swing away. I received a call back from the dealership to clarify what I was getting for $712.67-it was the entire new swing away portion of the tongue primed and ready to paint. So it sounds like that anyone with a trailer that has the Reliable actuator is S.O.L. for parts-none available. I'll post some pics once mine is fixed.
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Old 04-25-2012, 11:59 PM
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AZX9 AZX9 is offline
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Not sure of the part number but i had the UPF actuator put on. They cut off the reliable and it fit with some minor grinding I believe right into the swinging mechanism. I spoke with the old MC dealer in Phoenix and he said that a Titan master cylinder would bolt right up as the pattern matched the current hole for the lid and bolt pattern on the reliable actuator. He said they just grind off the threads from the old resorvoir cap in the trailer tounge and the new reservoir cap screws into the master cylinder instead of the trailer. Would have saved me money but not sure if he was correct. Worth checking into. I do like how the UPF product hitches up easily and works great.
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Old 04-26-2012, 10:38 AM
jab jab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgardjr1 View Post
Do you have any pictures of the new actuator? What brand did you go with? I called about getting a replacement shock and bushings for mine, but was told I had to buy the whole actuator assembly for $712.67. Yea, No Thanks Mastercraft ...
I only took a couple pictures of the trailer prep, it took me a little over an hour of using a grinder with a cutoff wheel and a sanding disc to get to this point. Drilling the holes for the new coupler was more work.

Here is my parts list if anyone needs it.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-T0777300.html
http://www.etrailer.com/p-T4842100.html
http://www.etrailer.com/p-T4748800.html
http://www.etrailer.com/p-T4839100.html

Total parts were under $400 and I can actually get inexpensive repair parts now, for instance, the master cylinder is only $50. One thing to note is the interchangeable hitch balls are too big for this coupler, the standard stainless or chrome fit fine. Two different interchangeable hitch balls measured at 2.010". We also had to change the pigtail electrical harness because the wire casing inside the plug was deteriorating, our local MasterCraft dealer stocked that. Be sure to use teflon tape on the brake line connections, leaks are a pain. We used a rubber stopper from the hardware store and an air compressor set at 10-15 psi to pressurize the brake system to flush the lines, it worked great.
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2012, 12:34 PM
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rgardjr1 rgardjr1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZX9 View Post
Not sure of the part number but i had the UPF actuator put on. They cut off the reliable and it fit with some minor grinding I believe right into the swinging mechanism.
From looking at the UPF actuator it looked like it had the potential to be a relatively easy install. The Mastercraft setup on my 2006 trailer has an actuator piece and a separate master cylinder. The actuator piece is held in the swinging tongue by two large pins held in place by snap rings. The UPF actuator is held in by two pins but I know for sure that I will need to drill new holes for both of the UPF pins. The front pin in the UPF is designed to move forward and backward-in my current setup the front hole that the pin slides through is not slotted like the UPF. The other issue I see is if the fill cap on the UPF master cylinder lines up with the hole that the old master cylinder used. I'll take a look at how much work it would be to retro fit it into the MC setup or just cut the swinging tongue off and weld on the outer UPF that I bought.
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