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  #31  
Old 04-16-2012, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff d View Post
That alternator looks even raunchier than mine did right before it started to fail. My ear was broken off like that too. Voltage started fluctuating a lot between 12-13. I ended up going to a cheap 105 amp alternator before it failed completely. The install was mildly difficult. I had to clearance the bracket with a grinder and add supplemental, larger wire to carry the extra current.

All of the information is in here:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ght=alternator
Jeff: I would love to see some pictures of your alternator install including where on the bracket you had to grind/Modify. I am assuming you are talking about the bracket that attaches to the water pump on one end and the upper alternator support on the other. Is that right?
Also the wiring freaks me out a bit. I have read posts about the 3 vs 1 wire attachment and troubles others have been having. Heck I am copying your belt alignment fix, I might as well copy your alternator too.
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  #32  
Old 04-16-2012, 12:00 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Originally Posted by MoMo Mike View Post
Also the wiring freaks me out a bit. I have read posts about the 3 vs 1 wire attachment and troubles others have been having.
I didn't do a 3 to 1 wire change. It's a 3 wire externally regulated to a 3 wire internally regulated change. The small gauge factory ground wire goes unused with the new internally regulated alternator. The ignition switch activated power wire does get used though (i.e. my new alternator is not self energizing).

If you got the externally regulated 90 amp Leese-Neville one it would probably be plug and play with the exception of needing to beef up the charging wire.

I'll have to take some pictures.
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  #33  
Old 04-16-2012, 12:09 PM
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The only down side to the 90 amp Leese-Neville is the price tag. Had a dealer quote me $275 for the 70 amp. Don't want to know how much the 90 would be. Your $70 option is sounding a lot better.
So why change from 3 batteries to 2? Just because its overkill and it would make the system more simple/less expensive to maintain?
Thanks.
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  #34  
Old 04-16-2012, 12:31 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Originally Posted by MoMo Mike View Post
The only down side to the 90 amp Leese-Neville is the price tag. Had a dealer quote me $275 for the 70 amp. Don't want to know how much the 90 would be.
You can get it for $200 here:
http://www.spidermarine.com/ShowItem...lternator.aspx


Quote:
Originally Posted by MoMo Mike View Post
Your $70 option is sounding a lot better.
Yeah, I'm happy with it now that it's done. There were a lot of other things I was working on at the time that may have made the alternator project seem more frustrating/difficult. Now, when I recount the project it doesn't sound that bad.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MoMo Mike View Post
So why change from 3 batteries to 2? Just because its overkill and it would make the system more simple/less expensive to maintain?
Yes, if you don't need the extra runtime it's not worth having money tied up in a third battery. By comparison I have a moderately "bumpin' sys'em" (900 watts RMS) in my boat and I still just have a single dual purpose battery. I'd like dual batteries simply for redundancy but I have sufficient runtime for my needs with just one battery. Assuming everything is setup correctly by the previous owner you could just leave it as is until one of the deep cycle batteries fail.
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  #35  
Old 04-17-2012, 12:34 AM
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Awesome help so far

I want to repost one of my questions that was not answered already and thank you all for your help and replies so far.
So the engine compartment divider that is melted and warped in my boat. What are they made of? Has anyone rebuilt theirs? Where would I find the materials?
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  #36  
Old 04-17-2012, 12:45 AM
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Corrosion

So here are a few pictures of corrosion that I have found in and around my engine compartment. Should I be concerned? What can I do to control/prevent/retard this process? Also some of my many battery cables appear to be affected primarily where there is a break in the sheath at the end of each cable. Is there a sealant or something that can be used here?
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  #37  
Old 04-17-2012, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoMo Mike View Post
I want to repost one of my questions that was not answered already and thank you all for your help and replies so far.
So the engine compartment divider that is melted and warped in my boat. What are they made of? Has anyone rebuilt theirs? Where would I find the materials?
Not sure what the material is called but it is not easy to find and comes in large sheets I believe. If you find some let me know I need the exact same piece.
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  #38  
Old 04-17-2012, 01:02 AM
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Clean with a brush and coat with wd40 try to keep the engine compartment dry as possible. Don't close the hatch when you store it leave it open a couple of inches to let moisture evaporate.
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  #39  
Old 04-17-2012, 07:26 AM
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i think the plastic is HDPE
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...3869&catid=705
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  #40  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:36 AM
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+1 on the corrosion cleanup and WD 40. I also put on some ospho on some surfaces to make sure I got all the rust off. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...&keyword=ospho

any left over rust that is just beginning will react with above product - then you can paint or coat with oil or wd-40.

Regarding the sheeting I have read others hear using Star Board... http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...value0~NewUser
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Last edited by mikeg205; 04-17-2012 at 08:40 AM.
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