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  #61  
Old 03-23-2012, 06:03 AM
gotta_ski gotta_ski is offline
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That engine looks very clean. Did he tell you why the exhaust manifolds were either repainted or replaced?

I moved my crossover tube not because it was overheating but because my temp gauge was moving around alot and I thought it might be collecting air in the heads. Once I moved the tube I feel like it was more consistent, but that might be me just wanting to believe it made a big difference. Either way I sleep better. I would say run it and if it seems to behave like it should than don't stress it.

I like that high mounted alternator. Is that stock or an aftermarket setup? My 98 is low mounted, so the belt comes straight across from the crank.

Post more pics. Can you show us the details on were the two small braided hoses coming from the exhaust elbows lead?
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  #62  
Old 03-23-2012, 01:09 PM
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Jerseydave Jerseydave is offline
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'93 was the first year for the LT-1 so I think that high mounted alt bracket is stock.

The small braided hose on the top of pic goes to the steam tube at the back of the engine.
The small hose on the bottom of the pic goes to the top of the thermostat housing. I'm replacing all the braided hoses with plain black hoses. I think the p.o. repainted the exhaust manifolds with some special "coating".

Name:  1993 prostar limited 011.jpg
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the only other engine pic I have right now
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  #63  
Old 03-23-2012, 02:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerseydave View Post
'93 was the first year for the LT-1 so I think that high mounted alt bracket is stock.

The small braided hose on the top of pic goes to the steam tube at the back of the engine.
The small hose on the bottom of the pic goes to the top of the thermostat housing. I'm replacing all the braided hoses with plain black hoses. I think the p.o. repainted the exhaust manifolds with some special "coating".

Attachment 76709

the only other engine pic I have right now
IMO Dave, those exhaust manifolds are aftermarket from Indmar, the orginial ones should be black and said MasterCraft Power on them...
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"It's better to keep your mouth shut and let people think you are stupid, than to open it and prove it"?
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  #64  
Old 03-23-2012, 11:14 PM
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Jerseydave Jerseydave is offline
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You may be correct, so at least I know they are newer manifolds if that's the case.

What year is that engine in your pic? I ask because it does not have the steam tube on the front of the engine either.
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  #65  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:33 AM
Jorski Jorski is offline
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Hey Dave,

As I mentioned before I also have a '93 with an LT-1...my alternator bracket does not look that.

It is low, and rotting...your set-up was likely a custom fix for a broken one. Either way, it is a much better set-up than mine came with.
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  #66  
Old 03-26-2012, 11:50 AM
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I believe it was a pic from a 95-97 boat... Yes, it could be a good thing they are new manifolds, you shouldnt have to worry about them for a while. Just paint them with black engine enamel paint. Or, you could upgrade to the MCX ETX manifolds, they look killer and should add a little boost in power. Dave at BAWS added them to his LT1 in the 93 Bud Pro-Tour boat. Also, if I remember correctly, Dave's alt. was high like yours in the pic Dave.

Jorski, post a pic?
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1991 PROSTAR 190 Flagship Blue POWERSLOT OJ XMP CNC 13.7x17.5 .110 4B
A.K.A. One of a kind mistake
2011 Best In Show- 1987-2000 class

Trying to keep slalom alive

Need a new prop to fit your needs? Call OJ PROPS 800-359-9730

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"It's better to keep your mouth shut and let people think you are stupid, than to open it and prove it"?
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  #67  
Old 03-28-2012, 11:12 AM
Jorski Jorski is offline
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I will post a pic when I can...boat is stored up near my cottage....2 hour away. Ice just went out the other day.

Once I get my hands on the boat, I will post a pic.

JerseyDaves set-up looks much better to me. I like the idea of having the alternator as high as possible, far removed from the bilge.
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  #68  
Old 03-28-2012, 10:40 PM
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80starsmn 80starsmn is offline
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Hi everyone, just something to add to this thread. I have a 96 PS 190 with the LT-1 and until yesterday it did not have the modification to move the steam pipe / bleed line from the rear of the heads to the front. I was not having any cooling issues during the short time I have owned this boat and didn't want to "fix something that wasn't broke" logic for not moving the bleeds to the front. First start up in the driveway after winter storage revealed a water leak from the port side steam tube. Further checking I found a rupture in the steam tube right near the attach point with the banjo bolt on the port rear head. What happend was scale, rust, crud all of the above migrated into the line and plugged the line trapping a little water, add freezing temps and you get a split line. Prior knowledge would have prompted me to add some compressed air through the bleed line from the manifold hose to clear out any obstructions last fall when I winterized. Needless to say my stock steam tube is junk (not enough length to clip off and attach a hose) and was a good excuse to make the modification as per the Service Bulletin from MC. I checked the local hardware store for the required brass elbows, tee, clamps and hose = just under $30.00. I then spoke with our local MC dealer to get their input on the Service Bulletin and to answer a few questions I had about the procedure. Our MC dealer, Midwest MasterCraft hear in Minneapolis, MN was an awesome source. They had done the procedure many times over the years and had the kit on hand that the service bulletin calls for at a whopping cost of 10 bucks! The Marks in the service department walked me through this simple procedure as per the service bulletin and offered any further assistance as needed. It took me 1 hour to make the mod and that was only because I had nothing else better to do. The plugs on the front of the heads back out with a 1/4" drive and replace the banjo bolts on the rear (after you have discarded the steam tube and bolts). Two brass fittings replace the plugs on the front of the heads with a short length of rubber hose running between the fittings on the heads. The starboard head is fitted with a brass T so as to connect the hose from the port head and the bleed hose running to the port exhaust manifold. Thats it! I like it so much better for another reason than cooling, it will be much easier to drain without clogging as the small ports in the old banjo bolts and tube are prone to do. Fired it up in the driveway, no runs, no drips, no errors. I can post some pics if anyone wants them. Special thanks to Midwest MC for being so helpful!!
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  #69  
Old 03-29-2012, 12:32 AM
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I would like to see pics of this setup. I had the same thought as this in mind once I started looking at the tube and moving it to the front. I didn't understand why I wouldn't be able to use fittings.

Pics would be greatly appreciated
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  #70  
Old 03-29-2012, 04:49 AM
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I would love to see pics of this as well. Plus do you have the part # for the kit? Thanks.
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