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  #21  
Old 07-31-2011, 12:26 PM
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lanier92prostar lanier92prostar is offline
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Boat: 1992 Prostar 190
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The space under the observers seat in my 92 was for a cooler, but I never thought of putting the battery up there. In mine the fuel tank is off center for the battery placement, so if you move the battery to the front, that will change the weight in the back of the boat.
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  #22  
Old 07-31-2011, 12:33 PM
Dave Osk Dave Osk is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, Prostar 190, 1992, 351
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Originally Posted by Dave Osk View Post
To continue with getting my new old boat dialed in I have moved both batteries up to the bow that slightly changed the attitude of the boat on plane. Ground down the ruder so it pulls slightly to the right and last changed from the standard 13 x 13 OJ to the ACME 541. Here is a set of pictures at 32 mph old prop vs ACME 541.

The first pic is with the 541 ACME and the second is with a slightly dinged standard OJ.
Sorry, I got the order of the pictures screwed up the second picture is with the ACME 541 the first is the original OJ.
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  #23  
Old 07-31-2011, 12:42 PM
Dave Osk Dave Osk is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, Prostar 190, 1992, 351
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After moving both batteries to the front I will say it is not worth the effort. Pulling the battery cables from the stern to the bow was a pain. I really wanted to see what difference it would make first hand so I rolled up my sleeves and did it. I bought those cheap marine battery boxes and fit them into the cooler area. It worked nice and I do like the location for servicing the batteries but really did not see a significant improvement in wake or spray.
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  #24  
Old 07-31-2011, 01:08 PM
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oldairboater oldairboater is offline
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The wake on my 93 is almost perfect. I plan on changing props to get a little better shaped wake but the change is going to be minimal. Moving batteries up to the front might make a change if it is next to where the bow eye comes through the hull. My built in ice chest area still is to centered in the boat for that little weight change. Sometimes the effort is not worth the trouble but it takes the people willing to put forth the effort to prove us wrong or right. Too many times I have scratched my head and said-" I didn't see that one coming."
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  #25  
Old 08-01-2011, 12:30 PM
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jconover jconover is offline
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Boat: 1988 ProStar 190/454HO
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OK - Slalom skier question here -- when you get to the point in the middle of that wake, and you are ripping across the wake - what do you do? Do you
A) Close your eyes and pray for the best
B) Man up and plow through it because you know it is soft
C) bend your knees and try to be a human shock absorber
D) other

This is actually a serious question - I have been working on my slalom sets for a few years now, and I still have a problem crossing the wake - my brain is so trained to fear that little bump, I inevitably let some of the angle off my cut so that my ski is more on plane than on edge. I am afraid to hit the wake when I am moving at 50+MPH while on the edge of the ski. FYI i usually ski about 35 mph (weigh ~200lb). anything slower and i feel like i'm sinking.

PS - Sorry for the threadjack, it looked like the thread had arrived at a good conclusion, and it was relevant to the topic

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Osk View Post
To continue with getting my new old boat dialed in I have moved both batteries up to the bow that slightly changed the attitude of the boat on plane. Ground down the ruder so it pulls slightly to the right and last changed from the standard 13 x 13 OJ to the ACME 541. Here is a set of pictures at 32 mph old prop vs ACME 541.

The first pic is with the 541 ACME and the second is with a slightly dinged standard OJ.

Last edited by jconover; 08-01-2011 at 12:45 PM.
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  #26  
Old 08-01-2011, 12:42 PM
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TxsRiverRat TxsRiverRat is online now
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Join Date: May 2011
Boat: 93 Prostar 205
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My answers:

1. Behind my PS 205 @ 22 off: A

2. Behind my PS 205 @ any other line length: B/C


Are you skiing in a slalom course? If you are, you need to slow that boat down to 30 so you can learn it. Also, if you feel you must be at 35 MPH, my guess is you are not skiing wide enough... What you want to do is get very wide on the boat, gradually turn in for your cut across and when you get to the edge of the wake, go balls to the wall across the wake... I would practice that until you can fly across it, then start adding small things to it – preturn, edge change, one handed turn and then the offside cut...
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  #27  
Old 08-01-2011, 12:46 PM
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jconover jconover is offline
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I dont have access to a course (yet). I practice in sets of 6 cuts, course-style - 3 left, 3 right, enter/exit in the middle. I have no idea how on earth i could slalom at 30 mph though.
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  #28  
Old 08-01-2011, 12:50 PM
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DooSPX DooSPX is offline
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I moved the battery from beside the fuel tank to under the ob. seat. I made a box to fit in the cooler location, then fit a battery box and strapped it down to the hull. looks factory and works great.
when resting with no one in the boat, with a full or close to full tank, the rear drivers corner is slightly lower. But, while on plane it has no effect, and seems to keep a little better balance to the wake.
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  #29  
Old 08-01-2011, 12:55 PM
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TxsRiverRat TxsRiverRat is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jconover View Post
I dont have access to a course (yet). I practice in sets of 6 cuts, course-style - 3 left, 3 right, enter/exit in the middle. I have no idea how on earth i could slalom at 30 mph though.
i'm 6'00" and weigh 185# and i ski the slalom course at 32, and on occasion speed it up to a 17.50 (my best guess for 33). There was a driver error the other day and the PP was set for 30 and i ran it like I was standing still.

Practice your ON SIDE cut over and over again till you can cross it with wreckless abandon and have no fear... remember - hips up, arms straight and low, SOFT knees...

If you practice that stance on dry land it will help...
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  #30  
Old 08-01-2011, 02:02 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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J

The immediate answer no matter speed or line length is man up, lift up your skirt and grab em.....

Now I'm not picking at you at all. Your question is legitement but letting up and not staying on edge all of the way through but slightly going flat is actually way more dangerous than staying on edge until you are completely through both wakes. A flat ski is an uncontrolled ski. Skiing flat or letting up will cause stuffing the ski into the wake sending you flying or cartwheeling with wreckless abandon.

Objective: get from one side to the other by staying on edge.
Stay out of the course for now cutting progressively stronger getting more angle each time which will increase speed behind the boat. Obviously your comfort zone will be determined by you. Make sure you are getting faster and faster each turn. Ski as long as you can not just 6 turns. It's not a race. Ski out turn cut across. Forget pretending like you are in a course but relax, turn and cut to the other side.
Watch some slalom videos where a pro is coaching on your tv. They will talk about body positioning.

Remember it's not how many turns or cuts you can make as fast as you can. It's make as many as you can. Keep in mind the pros ski 6 bouys with gates and they are doing it in 16.08 seconds. You are not there yet so if it takes you a minute who cares have fun and push yourself to cross harder and faster each time. Eventually you will be able to pull as hard as you can from one side to the other.

Quit worrying about the spray, wake, wake pattern, prop wash etc. You are only psyching yourself out.

You may take a few spills but who cares. A flat ski is not a very controlled ski

More angle increases speed behind the boat. Now angle at the turn bouys is not always speed but we will get to that problem sooner than later.

Also slow down the boat to 32 or 30 mph for a while. A ski buddy of mine is 6' something and 225 skis 28 mph a few passes.
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Last edited by Kyle; 08-01-2011 at 02:04 PM.
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