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  #1  
Old 11-28-2010, 06:38 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2000 230 VRS
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,286
Sundeck actuator went bad

Well, I've been anticipating this for a while but the actuator that raises the sundeck on my '00 230 VRS is now not functioning.

It trips the breaker at the switch. I checked voltage at the connector and everything is fine. Tried applying battery voltage right to the actuator and it doesn't spin.

I started to disassemble it and there was water in there. This isn't surprising either since the previous owner let rain water accumulate in the hull which was probably over the actuator motor. I've steadily been having to replace all electrical components that were below that water line (Starter, blower, etc.).

I started dissecting it further and the worm drive assembly appears to be fine. I can't get the lower half apart until I get my impact wrench back from a friend and a 1 1/8" deep socket. If the gears look ok then I will probably explore the option of having the motor rebuild at the local starter & alternator shop.

I've also seen other references on here to miscellaneous aftermarket liner actuators so I might look into that.

Lastly I may look at just putting in a couple of latches and a pair of strong gas shocks to assist in lifting it by hand. This seems like the simplest option but would probably involve some bracket fabrication and what not so I'm sure it would end up being somewhat complicated.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Jeff
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  #2  
Old 11-28-2010, 07:20 PM
JimN's Avatar
JimN JimN is offline
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Posts: 11,568
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff d View Post
Well, I've been anticipating this for a while but the actuator that raises the sundeck on my '00 230 VRS is now not functioning.

It trips the breaker at the switch. I checked voltage at the connector and everything is fine. Tried applying battery voltage right to the actuator and it doesn't spin.

I started to disassemble it and there was water in there. This isn't surprising either since the previous owner let rain water accumulate in the hull which was probably over the actuator motor. I've steadily been having to replace all electrical components that were below that water line (Starter, blower, etc.).

I started dissecting it further and the worm drive assembly appears to be fine. I can't get the lower half apart until I get my impact wrench back from a friend and a 1 1/8" deep socket. If the gears look ok then I will probably explore the option of having the motor rebuild at the local starter & alternator shop.

I've also seen other references on here to miscellaneous aftermarket liner actuators so I might look into that.

Lastly I may look at just putting in a couple of latches and a pair of strong gas shocks to assist in lifting it by hand. This seems like the simplest option but would probably involve some bracket fabrication and what not so I'm sure it would end up being somewhat complicated.

Any other ideas?

Thanks,
Jeff
I'd have the motor rebuilt. Gas shocks could allow the sun deck to be sucked open if you trailer is at high speeds without a cover. If you always use a cover, it's a moot point.
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  #3  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:44 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2000 230 VRS
Location: Southeast
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Oh, if I switch it to a manual lift i'd put at least one latch on the front. Maybe something like this:
http://tacomarine.com/cat--Sundeck-L...eck_latch.html
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2010, 10:17 PM
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Miss Rita Miss Rita is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Boat: 1992 ProStar 205, 1991 Ski Pro
Location: Black Hills
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My I/O had an actuator on the sunpad, it was a PITA. The "wow" factor was cool, but it was way too slow. I was the only one who could find the switches. I replaced it with two gas struts, much better now.
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  #5  
Old 11-29-2010, 03:44 PM
kdr kdr is offline
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Boat: 1994 Prostat 205, 275 hp
Location: Raleigh, NC
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I've got gas shocks and a latch in my 99. The latch is just like this:
http://greatlakesskipper.com/product...pull-cord.html

I always thought the auto-open thing was cool until I was in a boat with one. It was slow and annoying enough to keep you from stowing anything you might actually need back there.
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  #6  
Old 11-29-2010, 05:52 PM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdr View Post
I've got gas shocks and a latch in my 99. The latch is just like this:
http://greatlakesskipper.com/product...pull-cord.html
I discovered that style of latch last night. Definitely an easier install than one that protrudes through the vinyl. I was envisioning one of the kids slamming it closed with the strap below the cover though. I'd have to figure out how to sew in a strap over this strap that would prevent that.

What weight gas shocks did you go with? The stock one is a single 20 lb. Definitely not enough but 2 of those might do the job. I don't want to put some that are too strong and make it hard to close.
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  #7  
Old 11-29-2010, 11:07 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Boat: 1998 Maristar 200VRS
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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Noticed some actuators for sale that might (or might not) be replacements:
American Science and Surplus

If the link doesn't work, go to http://sciplus.com and search for "actuator"

/frank
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  #8  
Old 11-30-2010, 08:34 AM
kdr kdr is offline
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Boat: 1994 Prostat 205, 275 hp
Location: Raleigh, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff d View Post
I discovered that style of latch last night. Definitely an easier install than one that protrudes through the vinyl. I was envisioning one of the kids slamming it closed with the strap below the cover though. I'd have to figure out how to sew in a strap over this strap that would prevent that.

What weight gas shocks did you go with? The stock one is a single 20 lb. Definitely not enough but 2 of those might do the job. I don't want to put some that are too strong and make it hard to close.
I bought the boat with the gas shocks already installed and the stickers have faded so bad that I can't tell how strong they are. They do have a 30" extended length.

I have had the boat for about 4 years now and I have never closed the hatch on the pull strap. Not saying it can't happen, but it is not much of a concern for me.

Here are some pics of my setup:



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Last edited by kdr; 11-30-2010 at 10:07 AM.
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  #9  
Old 11-30-2010, 09:35 AM
mdskier mdskier is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Boat: 1999 Maristar 210 w/Tower
Location: Maryland
Posts: 88
Jeff d, how did you get the hatch open if the actuator failed? I have always worried about mine failing ('99 Maristar) and having to get in to the hatch to replace it.
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  #10  
Old 11-30-2010, 10:01 AM
frosty frosty is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Boat: 1998 Maristar 225 LT-1 (the SS Overkill)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdskier View Post
Jeff d, how did you get the hatch open if the actuator failed? I have always worried about mine failing ('99 Maristar) and having to get in to the hatch to replace it.
To open the hatch after acutator failure, take it apart at the hinges...I don't know what Mastercraft originally had back there (rivets, I think - they were drilled out) but I now have machine screws attaching the hinge to the boat, they are not very easy to remove, but definitely doable.
I will probably try to replace these with the pull-pins similar to what is securing your swim platform.

David
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