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  #61  
Old 06-27-2010, 08:18 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
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I will have to get a drill pump. thanks
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  #62  
Old 06-27-2010, 08:24 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
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Ok, made it to the lake this morning. The boat started and ran well untill about 11am. Then out of no where it stopped getting gas. tank was low, down to about 1 inch, so I added another 5 gallons. still nothing.
pulled the Brand new mechanical pump exit line, turned engine over no gas being pumped out.
Pulled the line end going directly to the tank, seemed empty also. I was able to blow air backwards through the line to the tank, reconnected to pump, and tried, still no gas pumpin out.
Removed filter from lines and connected lines, no gas.
Tank was cleaned to bare metal before this morning.
Gas lines, filter, and pump are all brand new.
so my options are the new pump went bad, or there is a bad check valve in the tank, or??? is there a filter screen in the tank? Any Ideas what to test, check next?
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  #63  
Old 06-27-2010, 08:38 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootjoe View Post
Ok, made it to the lake this morning. The boat started and ran well untill about 11am. Then out of no where it stopped getting gas. tank was low, down to about 1 inch, so I added another 5 gallons. still nothing.
pulled the Brand new mechanical pump exit line, turned engine over no gas being pumped out.
Pulled the line end going directly to the tank, seemed empty also. I was able to blow air backwards through the line to the tank, reconnected to pump, and tried, still no gas pumpin out.
Removed filter from lines and connected lines, no gas.
Tank was cleaned to bare metal before this morning.
Gas lines, filter, and pump are all brand new.
so my options are the new pump went bad, or there is a bad check valve in the tank, or??? is there a filter screen in the tank? Any Ideas what to test, check next?
IIRC there is no filter screen. You have covered about all of the options. As for the anti-siphon valve (the check valve), if it's on there, it can be removed with no issues. The pump can indeed be bad. I have had one over time that was bad when I received it and sent it back to Skidim. Other than time, I wasn't out much. The pump does not need to be primed, or as far as I know I have never had to prime the pump.
At this point, you have narrowed down to the filter and the pump. Without having a hands-on feel for the problem, I will suggest the pump, but I hat to say that for certain. But you have clear sailing elsewhere in the fuel supply system. One thing you might do is remove the fuel filter from the casing and allow that to be eliminated. Just run without it as a check. After that, the pump is looking suspicious.

A word of caution; while fooling with the fuel line upstream of the pump, be easy on the threads that connect to the carb. That entire fitting is delicate and threads are soft. Don't ask me how I know...
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..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
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Last edited by Cloaked; 06-27-2010 at 08:42 PM.
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  #64  
Old 06-27-2010, 08:58 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
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Thanks Cloaked, I will check the check valve tommorow. I already removed the filter from the system with the pump exit line into a bucket.
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  #65  
Old 06-27-2010, 09:04 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
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Other Issues from this trip.

1. New water pump exit line stayed cool ( I checked it ever few min for the first hour), but the temp sensor was dead. Where is the temp sensor on the engine? 1980 ford 351, pmc

2. Tack went high when engine above Idle, Ive heard this is possibly from vibration. Where does the tach lead connect to the engine?

3. Fuel Gauge was dead, Not sure where to start there?

4. Amp gauge was frozen / dead in the middle. Where does this connect to the engine.

All gauge fuses showed voltage on the voltmeter at the fuse box, and fuses were good.

Ideas and Pictures of locations would be a great help!!! Thanks.
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  #66  
Old 06-27-2010, 09:09 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
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Also, prop shaft Nut needs repacked, has a slow trickle,

5. It is back about 1 foot under the floor, I cant use a ratched, and there isnt really enough room to get a wrench on sidways, How do I losten it to repack? Is there a saftey coter pin or anything on the nut? or is it just compression.

The good news, No leaks in the hull, Not much vibration in the shaft, No Oil leaks, No tranny leaks, engine ran strong untill it quit, I was poppin the handle out of my friends hands all morning

Thanks for all the help!
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  #67  
Old 06-27-2010, 09:30 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootjoe View Post
Also, prop shaft Nut needs repacked, has a slow trickle,

5. It is back about 1 foot under the floor, I cant use a ratched, and there isnt really enough room to get a wrench on sidways, How do I losten it to repack? Is there a saftey coter pin or anything on the nut? or is it just compression.

The good news, No leaks in the hull, Not much vibration in the shaft, No Oil leaks, No tranny leaks, engine ran strong untill it quit, I was poppin the handle out of my friends hands all morning

Thanks for all the help!
Remove the center section from the floor and access the packing gland with ease. I use a pipe wrench for moving the nut. No cotter key. Pack it with the graphite packing from skidim. Easy to do. Not always easy to get the old packing out.

There is a locking nut against the gland nut.

After inserting packing and initially tightening, I put the boat in the water, leave the floor out and run it up the river, adjust as necessary while on the water. Stop, tighten, test again. Personally I tighten to no drip. Others prefer water dripping. Graphite is the ticket.

Again, caution with the threads on the gland body / packing nut. Tighten easy.
__________________
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Don't be a boot licker
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Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.

Last edited by Cloaked; 06-27-2010 at 09:44 PM.
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  #68  
Old 06-27-2010, 10:31 PM
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ccowell ccowell is offline
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Boat: 79 Stars and Stripes
Location: Finger Lakes NY
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I was having the same problems with fuel. I have a 79 S&S with the stock fram, water separator. If that seal is not 100% tight you will get air in the line and the siphon will be lost causing you to run out of fuel.
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  #69  
Old 06-27-2010, 10:44 PM
Napagary Napagary is offline
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Ditto for me on CCOWELL. Mine is a '76 w/ 315W, etc If my Fram canister filter looses it's suction/siphon from the tank (loose Fram gasket or line is broken), the mech. pump won't pull it back - mech. pumps are just poor "suckers". I have a portable siphon hand pump that I connect to the fuel outlet just ahead (downstream) of the Fram canister. A few hand pumps and the fuel shows in the clear tubing - hook it all back together and go. Been there, done that a few times
It's a PITA for sure but it helps to understand the problem.
Good luck!
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  #70  
Old 06-28-2010, 09:37 AM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Napagary View Post
Ditto for me on CCOWELL. Mine is a '76 w/ 315W, etc If my Fram canister filter looses it's suction/siphon from the tank (loose Fram gasket or line is broken), the mech. pump won't pull it back - mech. pumps are just poor "suckers". I have a portable siphon hand pump that I connect to the fuel outlet just ahead (downstream) of the Fram canister. A few hand pumps and the fuel shows in the clear tubing - hook it all back together and go. Been there, done that a few times
It's a PITA for sure but it helps to understand the problem.
Good luck!
That is a good Idea, I have an old outboard ball I could slip on to see if I can get fuel out of the tank and up to the pump. I will check and make sure all the fittings are tight.
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