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  #31  
Old 06-19-2010, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Sodar View Post
This isn't you X2 at Roadrunner, is it?
Saw this dude up by our place too


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  #32  
Old 06-19-2010, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyGJ View Post
Does the can have a see through top or something to see if it has debris in it or do you have to take it apart? When someone else said "visually inspect" it sounded like there is a way to visually inspect without removing the filter from the line.
Take the hose off going into the can like unit, there is a screen to catch debris. Clean it out a reassemble.
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  #33  
Old 06-19-2010, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by meg View Post
wow that really stinks for you!!!! I have an 06 X30 and I think it has the brass screen but I perioically check the intake screen. What amazes me is your temp gauge did not increase-did they say why? Does your lake have alot of debris?
It won't read high temperature because the sender is made to be immersed in water, which is a lot better at coupling the temperature to the sender. Hot air doesn't do it.
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  #34  
Old 06-19-2010, 10:17 AM
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EVERYBODY- read your owner's manual and post what it shows about cleaning the oil cooler and pre-boating check list. It used to recommend checking/cleaning the oil cooler before every outing. It also recommended checking the oil, hoses, etc. I don't know of anyone who bothers to spend the 5-10 minutes this takes, in order to avoid this kind of situation.
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  #35  
Old 06-19-2010, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by JimN View Post
It won't read high temperature because the sender is made to be immersed in water, which is a lot better at coupling the temperature to the sender. Hot air doesn't do it.
You would think that similar to newer cars, marine engines would by now have oil/block temp sensors as well as water temp sensors. It is one of the down sides I suspect of using engines designed in the 80s/90s.
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  #36  
Old 06-19-2010, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by vision View Post
You would think that similar to newer cars, marine engines would by now have oil/block temp sensors as well as water temp sensors. It is one of the down sides I suspect of using engines designed in the 80s/90s.
This is marine- there's no way as much money will be poured into R&D as they do with cars and trucks. Plus, the EPA isn't as far up a particular orifice, but they're trying.

An oil temp sensor could be added but when so many people ignore service intervals, can't access the data and think RPM reduction is "limp mode" when there's no water getting in to cool the motor, what's the point? My first post was to correct someone's recommendation that the warning buzzer wire be cut because it was annoying the boat owner. People regularly run the motor when it's running extremely roughly, which is usually RPM reduction and that's for getting out of danger, not limping back to the dock a few miles away. When it's in RPM reduction, shut it the eff off! There's one reason it goes into that mode on a MC boat and that's when it's overheated. Period!

The date of design means absolutely nothing. If there's no place to put an oil temp sender, they can add one. It's not much more than drilling/tapping a hole and threading it in, wiring it to the ECM and programming it to do something if it goes out of tolerance. The coolant temp temp sender IS the water sender but, even on a car, if the water jacket is dry, it's not going to show the real temperature until it's way too late.

Boats aren't cars and they suck all kinds of crap into the raw water cooling system. Boat owners need to accept the fact that some maintenance is required before taking the boat out. It's not like it needs to be torn down but a little inspection isn't hard to do. The problem is that so many people want a boat and want to be able to use it like they do when they drive away from home- "turn the key and go". Another part of the equation is that people no longer want to learn how to learn how to do mechanical things. They'd rather be an executive, lawyer, doctor, athlete or something else. Schools don't teach what's practical, they teach what will make the kids ready for colleges that will send them out as Captains of Industry, MBAs and members of Congress.
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  #37  
Old 06-19-2010, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cdevro View Post
Last month my engine started knocking after a day on the water, no alarms, no warning signs. The 400 hour 350 MCX engine has been maintained at regular intervals.Orginally it was thought to be under warranty but in the end I paid the bill. The cheap plastic intake screen on the botom of the boat was broke from an unkown object. Weeds were allowed to pass right into the cooling system eventually clogging the transmission cooler and then overheating the motor. THe argument that I have is why wouldn't the temp sender be able to pick up on the high temp? (it was tested and found to be in working condition and no codes showed up on diagnostics of the engine) THe plastic screen has been replaced with the brass intake that is on most of MasterCraft boats. Why they went plastic is beyond me.
SO lessons learned:
1. clean and inspect transmission cooler screen periodically
2. fully inspect under boat each time you pull it out of the water. (I do this everytime ,but the trailer bunks block the view of the intake unless you really get under it.
3. If you have the plastic intake screen replace it !


Check out the pics!
Did it run rough at any time?

Overheating it once doesn't kill a Chevy 350 unless it goes on for a really long time. They do a lot of destructive testing on their motors and this includes running them with no coolant and with no oil (separate tests). One of my friends worked at the Desert Proving grounds and they got about 250 miles out of a Cavalier with no oil. They ran a Corvette with the ZR-1 with no coolant and it never seized- it just burned up the gaskets.

Last edited by JimN; 06-19-2010 at 12:30 PM.
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  #38  
Old 06-20-2010, 09:46 AM
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AndyGJ AndyGJ is offline
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I looked for the unit on my PS 205v yesterday, but could not locate it. I'll be pulling the boat out on Tuesday, so I'll look for it then and check/clean it. My boat DOES have a brass external cover on the bottom of the boat, so MC does or did make them. Not sure why they would have gone to plastic except for maybe cost. I would not think that weight would be a problem.

I did have my boat go into limp mode once about 3 years ago. I had been taking my boat to a local MC dealer for service and requested that they do the full service requirements including changing the impeller. For 3 years in a row, they never changed the impeller. First time out for that season, the wife was pulling the trailer out shortly after launching while we waited idling in the water for her. Suddenly, the overheat alert went off, I looked immediately to temp gauge and saw it had spiked. I shut it down immediately.

I had to have a different shop remove the debris from the impeller housing. I was told that this is one of many reasons that this particular dealership lost the MC franchise the prior season. I now change the impeller each year myself and carry 2 extra on the boat at all times (never know when a fellow MC owner may go down & need a quick replacement).
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  #39  
Old 06-20-2010, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by AndyGJ View Post
I looked for the unit on my PS 205v yesterday, but could not locate it. I'll be pulling the boat out on Tuesday, so I'll look for it then and check/clean it. My boat DOES have a brass external cover on the bottom of the boat, so MC does or did make them. Not sure why they would have gone to plastic except for maybe cost. I would not think that weight would be a problem.

I did have my boat go into limp mode once about 3 years ago. I had been taking my boat to a local MC dealer for service and requested that they do the full service requirements including changing the impeller. For 3 years in a row, they never changed the impeller. First time out for that season, the wife was pulling the trailer out shortly after launching while we waited idling in the water for her. Suddenly, the overheat alert went off, I looked immediately to temp gauge and saw it had spiked. I shut it down immediately.

I had to have a different shop remove the debris from the impeller housing. I was told that this is one of many reasons that this particular dealership lost the MC franchise the prior season. I now change the impeller each year myself and carry 2 extra on the boat at all times (never know when a fellow MC owner may go down & need a quick replacement).
Advice from one member notwithstanding, it's a good idea to change the impeller every year and remove it over the winter if you store the boat for months on end. If you use it for much more than the average of about 100 hours/season, change it every 100 hours.

The first thing boat owners need to do is forget the phrase 'limp mode'. That doesn't exist when the motor relies on a steady flow of raw water to cool it. Once that's interrupted, it's 'SHUT IT DOWN!!!!!!!!!!!' mode. If it runs rough because of an overheat, nothing can fix it without restoring the flow but it's also necessary to let it cool down before running it again. Cold water on a hot motor can crack cast iron. Also, the oil needs to be changed ASAP if it overheats.

There's a lot of maintenance that can be done by a boat owner but they need to know A) what's required, B) the correct techniques and C) have the correct tools (when needed). MC used to put the break-in, 25 Hour, 50 Hour and 100 Hour service intervals in the owner's manual but I don't know if they still do. They also had a short section with what they recommend before every outing and checking the oil cooler was one of the first things listed. You'd be surprised by what can be found in the cooler in water that looks like there's nothing in it but fish. A plastic hull fitting should be fine. In theory. It's hard enough to dodge floating debris but when it's under the surface, it's almost impossible to react in time to avoid it. I think a carbon fiber or polycarbonate fitting would be better than the material used now.

Personally, and I'm biased due to the fact that I was a MC tech, the screws need to be put to any boat dealer whose service department slacks off on essential parts replacement and service procedures. They have an agreement with the manufacturer and a responsibility to their customers to do the best job possible and 'within their abilities' is an easy way for someone to try to avoid this responsibility. If they had a good tech and that person leaves, 'to the best of our ability' isn't going to be very good. If they don't bother to send their techs to training or rely on the ones who do to train the rest, they're in for a long road. A service tech may be good at what they normally do but that doesn't mean they can teach. OTOH, teaching others is a really good way to drill the material into someone's head. Dealers sometimes see training as an expense that doesn't pay out. That's a problem. How do they see throwing untrained techs at difficult diagnostics situations- good value? If they think "I'm only paying this guy $12/hr instead of $20/hr", they should stick to selling Jon boats.

Last edited by JimN; 06-20-2010 at 10:44 AM.
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  #40  
Old 06-21-2010, 01:29 PM
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cdevro cdevro is offline
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Brass or plastic?

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Originally Posted by GregS View Post
Does MasterCraft make this in brass? We have a plastic one on our 2010 X-Star.

Greg
Yes they make it in brass. I replaced the plastic one.
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08 x2, blown motor, engine, overheat, weeds

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