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  #11  
Old 01-14-2010, 12:25 AM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
Posts: 56
Here is a video of the boat running when I first picked it up this dec.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tePytf-kP8I
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  #12  
Old 01-14-2010, 02:08 PM
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454Prostar190 454Prostar190 is offline
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Boat: Mastercraft, Stars and Stripes, 425hp/454 Chevrolet, Actual Marineworld/Africa USA Towboat
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It actually sounds pretty good. Mufflers?
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  #13  
Old 04-04-2010, 08:37 AM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
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Well, its 75 this weekend, CRAZY, normally we have at least 1 snowstorm in late mar/april. I am finally on starting the project, I went through the boat(s) yesterday, and here is the to do list.
First things first, to raise the $, I am selling my first boat-the bayliner, and the Glasstron I picked up for nothing last fall, I will try to remember to update with pictures as I go. Underlined items are completed.

Any tips or suggestions are welcome!

Raise $: Sell Bayliner: rebuild lower unit/shift cable, new bearings, new tires, rebuild carb, floor paint, Polish hull, clean seats, Convert points to rotor cap, trailer light, tachometer.

Raise $, Sell Glastron, new stringers, floor, foam, carpet, bilge, Pylon, seats, lower unit seals, Paint vinyl, steering wheel, trailer lights, paint trailer, bearings, tires, gloss coat boat, rope guard
********Mastercraft List **********
Replace sea water pump / impeller
Replace mechanical fuel pump
Replace front n rear solenoid and / install wire from front to back solenoid
Wet Exhaust hoses
Replace fuel filter
Replace water separator
Replace driver side plug
Remove and clean out gas tank, clean out fuel lines
New hoses / belts
New exhaust flappers / seals
Replace bent bottom fin
Bilge electric connection
Attach dipstick tube
Spark plugs/ wires /
convert to cap/rotor
Oil / filter change
New battery
Prop shaft alignment / packing
Attach and support swim platform
Bearings
Wheels
tires
Fix Trailer lights
Mount license plate
Mount PA stickers
Spare tire mount
Fix gelcoat on bottom
ACME 541
New speedometer, lines, and feed tubes
Fix trailer fender crack
Mount driver seat
Emergency Prop replace tool/kit
Polish windshield
Wax gel coat
Tower / bimi?
Barefoot boom
Ethanol fuel addative convertor
Travel straps/tie downs?
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  #14  
Old 04-04-2010, 09:20 PM
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markismm markismm is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Boat: 1984 Stars and Stripes
Location: Georgia
Posts: 236
Real quick question...I did not see any water coming out of tail pipes. Did you have a water source flowing through engine when running. If so, do you know of the sea pump is working properly. Typically, you should have some water coming from the pipes when running out of the water as the water source flows through engine and out of exhaust. Just curious.
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  #15  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:27 AM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
Posts: 56
It may have still been filling up, but yes, water was flowing out the exhaust, but mostly out the drain plug, due to leaky exhast lines. This boat sat for? years and when we first started it the sea pump was stuck, had to take the belt off and free it by hand. Figured its best just to replace it since its probably pretty corroded.
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  #16  
Old 04-05-2010, 09:47 PM
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markismm markismm is offline
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Posts: 236
Good deal my man. Just wanted to ensure you were not about to possibly have some real problems. The boat sounds good and looks good. You'll really enjoy her.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2010, 11:05 AM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
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This weekend I completed step one and sold the bayliner! Yea! Now I have some funds freed up to really get going.

I Removed the gas tank and 15 gallons of 3 year old gas. Here are my questions on this end of the boat.

1. What is the best way to clean the varnish out of the gas tank?
2. Do I need to tear up the floor to get the mufflers and lines out or can I disocnnect the lines at the the flaps and engine, and slide them and the mufflers out past the engine?
3. The back transom seems really flimsy and my swim platform is loose, what is the best way to re-inforce the rear transom?
3. While I am under there, is there any maintinance that needs to be done to the steering fin coupler?

Thanks for the input.
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2010, 11:32 AM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootjoe View Post
This weekend I completed step one and sold the bayliner! Yea! Now I have some funds freed up to really get going.

I Removed the gas tank and 15 gallons of 3 year old gas. Here are my questions on this end of the boat.

1. What is the best way to clean the varnish out of the gas tank?
2. Do I need to tear up the floor to get the mufflers and lines out or can I disocnnect the lines at the the flaps and engine, and slide them and the mufflers out past the engine?
3. The back transom seems really flimsy and my swim platform is loose, what is the best way to re-inforce the rear transom?
3. While I am under there, is there any maintinance that needs to be done to the steering fin coupler?

Thanks for the input.
1) Different ways to do this. Partially fill it with a cleaner and soak it. There is a thread here somewhere on this process.

2) Your exhaust system is on the outside of the stringers. Yes, you'll need to cut out the floor and work from there. The later 80's models, (82 and up) have the exhaust in the center section. Getting the hoses and mufflers out are a pain if you are trying to salvage parts. It's easy if you're replacing it all. Discount Inboard Marine has parts and offer up expertise advice. You can have a 3.0" system or a 3.5" system. Be sure and confirm.

3) The stringers at the rear transom are likely water soaked and the platform is bolted on (into the stringer) with lag screws. They will let go sooner or later, depending on the weight on the platform. I replaced mine four years ago with thru-bolts and plate reinforcement,. I had to cut into the floor under the tank (an 85 model) and work from the inside. I have pictures of the procedure if you like. You should have access to doing this while you have the floor out for the exhaust replacement. One other thing to prepare for is that when you pull the platform off, the brackets on the transom will be adhered and gelcoat and all is likely to come off with it. You'll need small fiberglass and gelcoat repair (pics of that on mine also).
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3)Grease the one zerk on the rudder assembly that is under the tank (when installed) in the center section. That section of the floor should lift out easliy.

Also, replace your packing while in there. Use the graphite impregnated packing and not the cotton rope. Again, skidim.com for parts and advice on anything inboard related.

If you get to the point that the stringers need a complete replacement, others here have done this and posted. At this point of having to take out part of the flooring, I'd seriously consider replacing the stringers if they are bad (likely so). However, summer is near. This can take a few weekends (or more) to complete. Just sayin' because the engine has to come out for this. Maybe an upcoming winter project?

I'd be inclined to fix the exhaust (cutting out the floor section) and the platform issue (since the floor is cut anyway). Put a floor section back in and a piece of carpet on a semi-temporary basis to get you through the summer. Then strip it down this winter and replace the stringers if the need be.

When you cut the floor out, cut as centered (running parallel to the stringer) on the stringer as possible for reinstallation. Cut about 1" or more away from the side of the boat. It doesn't take all of that entire width of floor section to access the exhaust. Just cut enough room to work on the platform and exhaust. That is all you'll need to cut out.

If you are going to replace the carpet (at any time) remove it in as much of one piece as possible. You'll be glad you did by using this as a template to cut the new pieces for reinstallation. I learned the hard way many years ago. If you're going to just cut the floor for now, peel the carpet back (in one piece) and then reglue it to a new section until you decide when you'll replace it permanently. Just saves a lot of work now by doing this. Glue it back in with a light application of glue. It may have to come back out in 6 months or so.

I like the gray carpet. I have replaced a lot of carpet in boats and found the gray does not color-saturate your eyes while in the boat. Red-in-red is too much for me.

The wide-placed exhaust on your 80 model allows for barefooting off of the platform without getting onto the hot water. I had a 79 that allowed this. The later models put the hot water (exhaust) out right where one would step back onto the water to foot.

I watched your video and I too water my boat in the same way to run it. Works just fine.

What kind of tractor is that in the video?
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Quote:
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..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
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Last edited by Cloaked; 04-11-2010 at 12:24 PM.
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  #19  
Old 04-12-2010, 06:37 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
Posts: 56
The gas tank in now out, gave it a cocktail of carb cleaner, new gas, stabilla, and 2 cycle oil. after a few hours of agitation very 15 min or so it cleaned up completely.

The exhaust/water leak turned out to be a loose connection between the exhaust flange and the last bit of flex line, by loose I mean it had about 1/2 inch of play. I think the previous owners plan to "fix" the leak was a giant bilge pump! The mufflers are long, blue, and fiberglass looking. They seem to be in good condition so I think I will be able to get away with just replacing the exhaust lines above and below the mufflers.

The stringers have been sistered and glassed so I am going to let that sleeping giant lie for now.

After scraping off 1/4 inch of silicone, I was able to remove the bolts and lags holding the swim platform in place. I will post pics soon.
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  #20  
Old 04-12-2010, 06:39 PM
barefootjoe barefootjoe is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2010
Boat: 1980 stars n stripes Orig 351 pcm engine ++
Location: northeast
Posts: 56
Todays question, Speedometer lines and ?(large metal tubes) What are they and should they be replaced? My thinking is its easier to replace this stuff now while the back end is apart.
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