First Ski/wakeboard Boat!!!

[FrankSchwab]

Follow the suction hose that goes from the raw water pump (the weird brass pump awkwardly attached to the crankshaft pulley) to the hull. If there's a tee and a hose bib, you're in good shape; that's where you'll attach the garden hose to run the boat out of the water.

If there is no tee, then you'll have to improvise. There's a device called a "fake-a-lake", which is basically a toilet plunger with a hose bib on it - you brace it up against the bottom of the boat over the water intake, and turn on the hose. Never used one myself. Here's a bunch of permanent mount solutions from Skidim. Alternatively, you can disconnect the suction hose on the raw water pump, attach a new hose and drop it in a bucket of water - the raw water pump will suck it up. Keep the bucket full.

I've seen a couple of fine-looking Home Depot-sourced solutions using a various brass bits. The Tee is easy; buy a cap to close the tee when you're not using it, and you're good. Make sure that the cap can't leak; it'll suck air through the cap and stop cooling the engine. You will have to have a way to shut off the suction hose down to the hull, however.

/frank

seriously this forum and site is beyond awesome, I have been around salt water boats, and many different types of hobbies and this one, is very supportive more than any other! thanks.

[Chicago190]

Frank covered most of the bases.

I think it is a pain to crawl around in the bilge to disconnect the raw water intake hose from the through-hull fitting on the hull. I bought a ~4 ft. section of clear plastic hose with the same inner diameter as the raw water intake hose and connect it to the cold side of the transmission cooler. As I recall it says on the hose what the size is, but I do not know off the top of my head. I then stick the plastic hose in a 5 gallon bucket and keep it filled with water. The other nice thing about the plastic hose it is more flexible so it is easier to get into the bucket.

As for finding the raw water intake hose, transmission cooler, and through hull fitting, look at the last picture you posted. The hose at the very bottom, connected to the raw water pump - which if you look at the brass housing is also the place to replace the raw water pump impeller - will run along the bottom of the port-side of the engine, it will be connected to the transmission cooler, which is a black oval thing with lines running to the transmission. If you continue following the hose from the transmission cooler it will run down to the through hull fitting at the bottom of the bilge. On the underside of the boat at this point will be the brass plate where you would connect the Fake-A-Lake (plunger device Frank mentioned).

While I'm at it I will mention the transmission cooler has a screen on it to gather debris. Make sure to regularly check the cooler for clogs to prevent your engine from overheating.

Edit: It is safe to start the engine when it is connected to a water source, but you cannot put the boat into gear. The strut bushing is cooled and lubricated by water and will burn up if the prop shaft turns out of the water.

[thatsmrmastercraft]

I have a "fake-a-lake" and it works fantastic. Whether you use a fake-a-lake or put the intake hose in a bucket, it will take a few moments before the water works through the system and exits out the exhaust. My first time I was a little concerned about the delay. Goose the throttle once or twice and you will have water circulating in no time.

If you purchase or put together an inline T which utilizes hose pressure, you will have water circulating through the system quicker. I plan to install one in the spring just for ease of use.

Originally Posted by Chicago190

Frank covered most of the bases.

I think it is a pain to crawl around in the bilge to disconnect the raw water intake hose from the through-hull fitting on the hull. I bought a ~4 ft. section of clear plastic hose with the same inner diameter as the raw water intake hose and connect it to the cold side of the transmission cooler. As I recall it says on the hose what the size is, but I do not know off the top of my head. I then stick the plastic hose in a 5 gallon bucket and keep it filled with water. The other nice thing about the plastic hose it is more flexible so it is easier to get into the bucket.

As for finding the raw water intake hose, transmission cooler, and through hull fitting, look at the last picture you posted. The hose at the very bottom, connected to the raw water pump - which if you look at the brass housing is also the place to replace the raw water pump impeller - will run along the bottom of the port-side of the engine, it will be connected to the transmission cooler, which is a black oval thing with lines running to the transmission. If you continue following the hose from the transmission cooler it will run down to the through hull fitting at the bottom of the bilge. On the underside of the boat at this point will be the brass plate where you would connect the Fake-A-Lake (plunger device Frank mentioned).

While I'm at it I will mention the transmission cooler has a screen on it to gather debris. Make sure to regularly check the cooler for clogs to prevent your engine from overheating.

Edit: It is safe to start the engine when it is connected to a water source, but you cannot put the boat into gear. The strut bushing is cooled and lubricated by water and will burn up if the prop shaft turns out of the water.

Thank you very much this is very helpful, you are all saving me money, time, and heart ache!!!! Especially the last sentence!

[Thrall]

And don't turn on the water to the boat before starting the engine. Either do it at the same time, or start the engine just before turning the water on (if you're using the tee or a fake alake). The entire cooling system can fill with water pretty quick and the water going to the exhaust manifolds will run right into the cylinders if there's not exhaust pressure present.
You can hydro lock the engine pretty quick if you're not careful.

Chi 190 is correct, except that you can bump it into gear for a second or 2, just don't leave it in gear, it will heat up the strut bushing.
Same with running the engine without water attached. Starting it for a couple seconds is fine, longer will burn up the raw water impeller. If you must run it for longer without water, remove the impeller or take the cover off and squirt some soap in to lube it. Then you only have to worry about shutting it off before it overheats, which takes a while on a cast iron chevy engine. (I've run small block chevies for a half hour without any coolant (demo derby!, blown water pump in BFE, etc). WOuldn't reccomend it as common practice, but it won't kill you to run it for a couple min in the driveway as long as you protect the impeller.

[Chief]

Originally Posted by Chicago190

Nice of you to answer with such a worthless post to a first time owner, considering you set a record for stupidest questions asked about their boat. You telling someone to do a search is priceless.

Concur, you would think that given the amount of worthless crap posted by Maristar Man he might provide some useful information to a new member.

You know everyone gave him good info so he decides to return the favor by being a total smartass.

[Chief]

Welcome to the forum! You will find a wealth of information here Wakesurfer. Get yourself an account!

Go through your boat end to end. Start fresh with everthing possible or affordable. You can never go wrong with:
1. new gas and fuel filter
2. new oil and filter
3. new tranny oil and filter (if applicable)
4. grease all the steering points
5. Install a perko flusher and flush engine really well with Salt Away
6. Inspect the trailer and make sure your brakes work and the hubs are lubed.
7. Bleed the brakes
8. New Impeller, make sure transmission cooler is clean of any old Impeller chunks.

You will find a wealth of information here, sometimes not as already seen.

Good luck

[JohnE]

Originally Posted by Chief

Welcome to the forum! You will find a wealth of information here Wakesurfer. Get yourself an account!

Good luck

Agreed. email Phil.Walker@mastercraft.com and tell him you want to be able to login as a regular user instead of a guest. There is a glitch that occurred and if you sign in from one particular link you get logged in as a guest instead of as a user.

And Chief is dead on in the rest of his analyses.

Originally Posted by Chief

Welcome to the forum! You will find a wealth of information here Wakesurfer. Get yourself an account!

Go through your boat end to end. Start fresh with everthing possible or affordable. You can never go wrong with:
1. new gas and fuel filter
2. new oil and filter
3. new tranny oil and filter (if applicable)
4. grease all the steering points
5. Install a perko flusher and flush engine really well with Salt Away
6. Inspect the trailer and make sure your brakes work and the hubs are lubed.
7. Bleed the brakes
8. New Impeller, make sure transmission cooler is clean of any old Impeller chunks.

You will find a wealth of information here, sometimes not as already seen.

Good luck

Thank you very much for all your help this site and the people like you are what make America a great place to be. Ole Glory is flying high at my home.