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  #51  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:33 PM
MariStar-Man's Avatar
MariStar-Man MariStar-Man is offline
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Boat: 1999 Maristar 210 VRS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coz View Post
get your parts here
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers
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  #52  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:40 PM
coz's Avatar
coz coz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers

Remember, you can get alot of parts from NAPA too
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  #53  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:42 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Central Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers

Don't get hung up on "marine oil" - there really is no such thing. The oil that's recommended for your engine is 15W40 with API specs CI-4/SJ. That is more typically labeled as a "diesel" oil.

The "suction device" isn't just for the tranny - it's for removing the engine oil too. Get a fitting so that you can hook your suction device up to your engine oil drain hose. Warm it up, hook it up, and suck it up. DO NOT put the suction pump's tube down the dip stick hole - connect it to your oil pan drain hose. Here's the fitting for that...put the barbed end in your suction pump's hose and screw the other end onto the drain hose. It's a 1/4 inch NPT barbed fitting and will cost about $2 at your hardware store.

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  #54  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:50 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac View Post
I do disagree about being functional until "crumbled beyond use". I think you can tear a vane or two and the result will be some temp variation - which is a very important warning sign - and far better than intentionally waiting for a big-time overheat. .....
Agreed. It was a figure of speech. I mispoke in a detailed manner.
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  #55  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:51 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
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Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
I didn't see the hot water info in the manual. Is there a fresh water tank or just thru the Raw Water pickup under the boat? I found the pump and it looks like it's connected to ACC 1. the wires they ran are hanging down all over the place and i have to tie em into the wiring harness.

looks like it was installed after boat was purchased?
No doubt.

Hot water source is usually one of the engine block drain plugs, cold water is usually from the raw water intake.

Looks like a HeaterCraft 100S shower. Their install manual is here.
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  #56  
Old 08-16-2009, 12:56 PM
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SkiDog SkiDog is offline
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Thats a good job, now get ready to do that about every 3rd time you use the boat. Too bad it won't stay that way!
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  #57  
Old 08-16-2009, 01:37 PM
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dummy dummy is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Boat: '00 MariStar 230VRS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers
You don't have a cap and rotor. Your ignition is a distributorless setup that uses 2 crank position sensors located on the harmonic balancer that signals an ignition control module to fire 8 individual coil packs located on the right side of the engine (same side as oil filter). Your engine uses Chevy Vortec heads which were used in '96-'99 Chevy pickups and SUVs. Just read the number on one of your plugs and you'll be able to pick up replacements at your local auto parts store for probably a little less than through a marine place.

No need for marine oil, really. Just use 15W-40 diesel oil and a good Wix or NAPA Gold filter. Here's a quick oil change write up I did: http://garagemonkey.net/garage-monke...e-gallery.html Your camshaft is a hydraulic roller, so there's no brutal flat-tappet lifter contact to worry about anyway.

Also, make sure you note which way the impeller blades are twisted before you take out the old one when you replace it. You'll need to spin the new impeller in to clock the vanes in the same direction or it can fragment.

You got a squeal? Check your serpentine belt and see if you've got an idler pulley in there. I can't remember based off mine if the LTR uses one or not. If the boat got wet in there and sat the idler pulley bearing can seize and cause a squeal. Just one more thing to check for.

I also seem to recall reading on this site about an alternator bracket recall, so if yours is broken and your alternator is cocked that could cause some squealing.
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  #58  
Old 08-16-2009, 01:52 PM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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Boat: 1998 Maristar 200VRS
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You have the same trailer tongue as I do. You probably do not have a solenoid to allow backing up. The Previous Owner, by sticking a nickel in where he did, disabled the trailer brakes completely. I would recommend removing it.

Check out page 10 of the UFP Maintenance manual. What you need is the "Brake Lockout Bracket", shown in figure 8. Not quite sure where to source one; attaching something to the nickel so you could easily remove it after backing up may be your best (and cheapest) bet.

/frank
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  #59  
Old 08-16-2009, 02:04 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MariStar-Man View Post
I'm making a list of stuff i need.

Fuel filter
Plugs
Cap and Rotor
Marine Oil
Transmission ATF DExron l l l 4.2 quarts (5) quarts
Transmission filter

Suction device for tranny

Anything else I should get?

Cheers
Your plugs are AC MR43LTS. As Dummy posted, no cap and rotor. If you want to have better oil filtering, use the large can AC PH-1812 or equivalent, but avoid Fram. Wix supposedly makes AC filters now (according to the NAPA store I went to), NAPA filters are good, too. Really, as long as you don't overheat it (this means make sure the impeller is good and the oil cooler isn't clogged) and the oil/filter is changed regularly, you won't have a problem. Get in the habit of checking the oil cooler often because that being clogged is the one thing that can cook your impeller and motor before you know you have a problem.

Also, DO NOT run it on the trailer or out of water unless you have some way of supplying cooling water and if you do this, don't put it in gear for any length of time, either. I'm not a fan of Fake A Lake, period. Nothing will make me use one, either. As long as you don't rev it up, you can buy a section of 1-1/4" hose and a couple of hose clamps, so you can attach it to the inlet side of the oil cooler. If you put a shutoff valve on it, you won't have to get out of the boat to shut the water off.
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  #60  
Old 08-16-2009, 02:10 PM
MariStar-Man's Avatar
MariStar-Man MariStar-Man is offline
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Loose Engine mount and disconnected fitting. pics

It's a good thing to become intimate with your motor...





I'm going to try to dremmel the first 2 threads, until i can order one... This part is located at the rear of the boat motor at the end of the steering rod that has the grease in it. this fitting seals the steering rod assy.

Oh! also one of my MOTOR MOUNT bolts was lying on the floor

My new moto is, "Chek em or Wreck em..."
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