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  #11  
Old 04-22-2009, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by CODY_YARBER07 View Post
I just got off the phone with Cadence and they said the TXA-3004 is so cheap because it has been discontinued. That makes me feel better. I just don't want to have really nice Wetsounds speakers and drive them with a crappy underpowered amplifier.
what did they say as far as powering the pro 80's with the TXA?
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2009, 10:25 AM
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what did they say as far as powering the pro 80's with the TXA?
They said it should be a good.
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:21 PM
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No one ever replied to my alternator thread but I've decided to get a 140 amp alternator. I was thinking about getting a second battery but I would really rather not spend the money if I dont have to. What does everyone think?
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:29 PM
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how many amps? how much total RMS? i wouldn't mess with your alternator unless absolutely necessary. i'm running 2 amps rated at total 1500W RMS with the stock 03 70A alternator and two optima blue tops and so far it doesn't look like i'm going to need to change my alternator. it would be better, imo, to add a 2nd or possibly 3rd battery and isolator along with a good muli-bank smart charger that you could charge the house bank off the water. good marine grade alternators are pretty expensive. the balmer 150A units that some here run cost over $800.
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by brucemac View Post
how many amps? how much total RMS? i wouldn't mess with your alternator unless absolutely necessary. i'm running 2 amps rated at total 1500W RMS with the stock 03 70A alternator and two optima blue tops and so far it doesn't look like i'm going to need to change my alternator. it would be better, imo, to add a 2nd or possibly 3rd battery and isolator along with a good muli-bank smart charger that you could charge the house bank off the water. good marine grade alternators are pretty expensive. the balmer 150A units that some here run cost over $800.
My stock alternator is just 37 amps. I only had one amp last year and it would run down while it was running. Now I will be running like 900 rms. I got quoted 140 bucks for a 140 amp alternator. Why wouldn't you recommend an alternator change?
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  #16  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:37 PM
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oh, okay, well then yeah, you're going to need to do something.

make 100% certain you get a marine rated (for gasoline engines) alternator then. non-marine grade alternators are NOT ignition safe and you could go BOOM!
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  #17  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by brucemac View Post
oh, okay, well then yeah, you're going to need to do something.

make 100% certain you get a marine rated (for gasoline engines) alternator then. non-marine grade alternators are NOT ignition safe and you could go BOOM!
Yeah..I'd rather not go boom. This electrical stuff is too damn complicated.
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  #18  
Old 04-22-2009, 01:44 PM
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think I can find an alternator to put in my truck that will go boom?
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  #19  
Old 04-22-2009, 02:12 PM
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hush you!!!!
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  #20  
Old 04-22-2009, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CODY_YARBER07 View Post
My stock alternator is just 37 amps. I only had one amp last year and it would run down while it was running. Now I will be running like 900 rms. I got quoted 140 bucks for a 140 amp alternator. Why wouldn't you recommend an alternator change?
Quote:
Originally Posted by brucemac View Post
oh, okay, well then yeah, you're going to need to do something.

make 100% certain you get a marine rated (for gasoline engines) alternator then. non-marine grade alternators are NOT ignition safe and you could go BOOM!
X 2. The cheaper ones are often not marine grade. There are just too many fumes that collect around that engine to risk it. But $800 sounds like a lot more than I have ever heard for an alternator upgrade.
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