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  #21  
Old 08-21-2014, 12:47 AM
ncsucarjock88 ncsucarjock88 is offline
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I believe someone on the forum made a pylon recently who had access to a machine shop. I dont' recall which thread it was in though... search the forum and you may find it
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  #22  
Old 08-21-2014, 03:16 AM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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searched and didn't find anything. if anyone runs across that thread please link to it.
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  #23  
Old 08-21-2014, 09:11 AM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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I have the same year PS190 with slot. I found that water was seeping in between the aluminum housing (which is bonded to hull and covered with epoxy and fiberglass) - AKA the shaft log. I also discovered that it was not secured in the proper position from the factory and was a little off, as yours appears to be. Your prop shaft looks like it's perfectly centered as it exits the hull, which is a good thing. BTW - my engine alignment was almost perfect. If you haven't removed anything yet, check your alignment first. I gave up and purchased the short socket from SKIDIM and made a home made puller. To make a long story as short as possible: I took care of three issues - no more water seeping into the bilge, a new cutlass bearing, and when re-installing the aluminum housing to the hull I corrected the factory installation, which was slightly askew.
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=54563
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  #24  
Old 08-22-2014, 03:25 AM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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thanks i had seen your post previously and did not think mine needed it but now i'm starting to think otherwise. if you don't mind a few questions, but first shaft alignment, i unbolted the 4 bolts and pretty much the shaft stayed dead on the motor so i'm thinking your correct in replacing the log. how much was the log at skidim, they gave me a bit of a runaround saying i had to send in pictures and they dont like selling them etc..... also which one was it they also went into this all fiberglass one and did not even mention aluminum like what you have. Also which west epoxy did you use? anyway any pointers would be appreciated.
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  #25  
Old 08-29-2014, 12:39 AM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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work had me swamped recently so no big updates but a question for all those out there. The previous owner had a strainer on the water intake, now i've read a lot of good and bad about them on here. However the lake i live on is very clean, deep, and no weeds where we ski or drive for that matter. So is it better to remove it and take out the possibility that it gets an air leak or let it be?

thanks
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  #26  
Old 08-29-2014, 08:25 AM
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j.mccreight@hotmail.com j.mccreight@hotmail.com is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_2_o View Post
work had me swamped recently so no big updates but a question for all those out there. The previous owner had a strainer on the water intake, now i've read a lot of good and bad about them on here. However the lake i live on is very clean, deep, and no weeds where we ski or drive for that matter. So is it better to remove it and take out the possibility that it gets an air leak or let it be?

thanks
your boat shouldn't have an issue with air pockets in the strainer, my 25 yr old boat has never had an issue with getting air in the strainer(also trans cooler), that's mostly a problem for the newer Ilmor equipped boats.
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  #27  
Old 08-29-2014, 10:05 PM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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Originally Posted by h_2_o View Post
thanks i had seen your post previously and did not think mine needed it but now i'm starting to think otherwise. if you don't mind a few questions, but first shaft alignment, i unbolted the 4 bolts and pretty much the shaft stayed dead on the motor so i'm thinking your correct in replacing the log. how much was the log at skidim, they gave me a bit of a runaround saying i had to send in pictures and they dont like selling them etc..... also which one was it they also went into this all fiberglass one and did not even mention aluminum like what you have. Also which west epoxy did you use? anyway any pointers would be appreciated.
I don't understand your conversation with skidim, to my knowledge that aluminum part is not available. I think mine had Mastercraft stamped on it somewhere. Regardless, it doesn't need to be replaced, just remove it - clean and prepare it to be bonded back onto the hull. Mine appeard to be bonded from the factory with Bondo. I used a thickened West Systems G-flex. I called West Systems and this was their suggestion. The mixture used between the aluminum and the hull was thickened until it was sorta like pudding, maybe not quite that thick. Once that had cured for a day, I applied G-flex unthickened with fiberglass matt back over the aluminum.
As far as the rubber hose, (which I think is sometimes referred to as the shaft log) the hose that skidim sells isn't always recommended to be used in this application. It's not quite as thick as the OEM. However they'd been selling it for years with no issues.
I also repacked the shaft with the Gore packing, which is almost dripless. You need some water dripping though to ensure the shaft doesn't get too hot.
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  #28  
Old 09-01-2014, 01:17 AM
h_2_o h_2_o is offline
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d2jp: ok I think i see what the problem is now and correct me if i am wrong. you did not get a replacement for that aluminum piece you posted pictures of but instead that was the one that was in your boat but cleaned up correct? if that is the case then yes my conversation with skidim probably confused everyone. I was thinking you got that piece from them. thanks for helping clear things up a bit.
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  #29  
Old 09-01-2014, 06:06 AM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_2_o View Post
d2jp: ok I think i see what the problem is now and correct me if i am wrong. you did not get a replacement for that aluminum piece you posted pictures of but instead that was the one that was in your boat but cleaned up correct? if that is the case then yes my conversation with skidim probably confused everyone. I was thinking you got that piece from them. thanks for helping clear things up a bit.
I bet skidim was confused to

ther is a post somewhere here showing thiis repare just using the existing part, some fiber cloth and resine- ez fix -i would not rely on a puty to seal and hold- use fiber repair methd for best results

even if you dont find the tread its ez enough to lay in cloth with resine
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  #30  
Old 09-01-2014, 11:19 AM
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d2jp d2jp is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h_2_o View Post
d2jp: ok I think i see what the problem is now and correct me if i am wrong. you did not get a replacement for that aluminum piece you posted pictures of but instead that was the one that was in your boat but cleaned up correct? if that is the case then yes my conversation with skidim probably confused everyone. I was thinking you got that piece from them. thanks for helping clear things up a bit.
That was the original aluminum part, just cleaned and scuffed up before installation. Due to the vibration associated with that area, West Systems recommended Gflex but probably any good quality epoxy resin would work just fine. I actually repositioned mine in order to have it line up better with the prop shaft. Not a hard job just time consuming. And with the powerslot, there isn't a huge amount of room to work with!
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