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  #4951  
Old 07-16-2014, 01:06 AM
Olaff Olaff is offline
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Boat: 1982 Mastercraft Stars & Stripes Powerslot
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Started by tightening a pylon wiggle, now my floor's out

Noticing a little movement in the pylon with a load on it last weekend so I figured I would tighten it. That led to pulling out the driver's seat and base to give me some room to work. (turned out one of the nuts on the seat rail was loose). Then out came the observer's seat and base, followed by battery and battery box. That gave me access to the retaining bolts for the pylon; and also a view of 32 years of accumulated filth in the forward bilge. So (gently!) up came the original carpet and floorboard forward of the motor.
Now I have the pylon and it's mid-stringer mounting bracket out. There was a little play in the pylon base mount with some water squeezing out where it was 'glassed into the hull. I cut off the fiberglass and removed the base plate.
Everything is nice & clean now, but I have some plans for re-assembly...
Thinking of welding a bigger steel plate under the pylon base, drill holes to match and and fix it to the hull using the tops of the forward tracking fin bolts instead of 'glassing it back in. Also squirted a little denatured alcohol into the lag bolt holes where the pylon bracket attaches into the stringers to make sure they are dry. Then I'm going to treat the holes with "Git Rot" just in case.

Here is the thread with the repair (added 7-21-14):
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ighlight=pylon

Last edited by Olaff; 07-21-2014 at 10:21 AM. Reason: added link
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  #4952  
Old 07-16-2014, 05:59 PM
jschildm jschildm is online now
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I happen to have the old inner member still in my garage, so I snapped some pictures of how to go about bleeding it (keep in mind I have it setting on a work bench, normally you would be on the ground under the tongue).

Here is what it looks like underneath it. You can see the hole where the screw driver goes through, as well as the letting lever that needs to be pushed towards the top of the tongue.



Here you can see me holding the tab down and pushing the actuator rod with a screw driver (normally you would do one with each hand, but I had to take the picture too).



This tongue was for drum brakes and the one I replaced it with was for disc, so as long as is its a UFP actuator (at least of this size) the method described should work.
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  #4953  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:02 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschildm View Post
I happen to have the old inner member still in my garage, so I snapped some pictures of how to go about bleeding it (keep in mind I have it setting on a work bench, normally you would be on the ground under the tongue).

Here is what it looks like underneath it. You can see the hole where the screw driver goes through, as well as the letting lever that needs to be pushed towards the top of the tongue.



Here you can see me holding the tab down and pushing the actuator rod with a screw driver (normally you would do one with each hand, but I had to take the picture too).



This tongue was for drum brakes and the one I replaced it with was for disc, so as long as is its a UFP actuator (at least of this size) the method described should work.

Another good way to bleed is using a ratchet strap - lots faster - sorry OP but I went a bit crazy using your way.. but your way works too
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  #4954  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:03 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Olaff View Post
Noticing a little movement in the pylon with a load on it last weekend so I figured I would tighten it. That led to pulling out the driver's seat and base to give me some room to work. (turned out one of the nuts on the seat rail was loose). Then out came the observer's seat and base, followed by battery and battery box. That gave me access to the retaining bolts for the pylon; and also a view of 32 years of accumulated filth in the forward bilge. So (gently!) up came the original carpet and floorboard forward of the motor.
Now I have the pylon and it's mid-stringer mounting bracket out. There was a little play in the pylon base mount with some water squeezing out where it was 'glassed into the hull. I cut off the fiberglass and removed the base plate.
Everything is nice & clean now, but I have some plans for re-assembly...
Thinking of welding a bigger steel plate under the pylon base, drill holes to match and and fix it to the hull using the tops of the forward tracking fin bolts instead of 'glassing it back in. Also squirted a little denatured alcohol into the lag bolt holes where the pylon bracket attaches into the stringers to make sure they are dry. Then I'm going to treat the holes with "Git Rot" just in case.

need pictures...
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  #4955  
Old 07-16-2014, 06:57 PM
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clrussell clrussell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschildm View Post
I happen to have the old inner member still in my garage, so I snapped some pictures of how to go about bleeding it (keep in mind I have it setting on a work bench, normally you would be on the ground under the tongue).

Here is what it looks like underneath it. You can see the hole where the screw driver goes through, as well as the letting lever that needs to be pushed towards the top of the tongue.



Here you can see me holding the tab down and pushing the actuator rod with a screw driver (normally you would do one with each hand, but I had to take the picture too).



This tongue was for drum brakes and the one I replaced it with was for disc, so as long as is its a UFP actuator (at least of this size) the method described should work.
Thanks! If I can't get the brake flush machine to work at work then I'll use this or a rachet strap method.
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  #4956  
Old 07-17-2014, 08:57 AM
jschildm jschildm is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Another good way to bleed is using a ratchet strap - lots faster - sorry OP but I went a bit crazy using your way.. but your way works too
Interesting ... using the ratchet strap was faster for you? I messed with that for quite a while but got no where. This method went pretty quickly.

On another note, if this is a fresh fill or you are trying to completely flush, make sure you keep checking the reservoir and adding fluid as required.
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  #4957  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:20 AM
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CantRepeat CantRepeat is online now
 
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In the process of switching out an isolator for an ACR and building a new electrical panel out of 3/4 inch King Starboard.
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  #4958  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:48 AM
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1988 Prostar 1988 Prostar is online now
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before and after taken yesterday still workin on it
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  #4959  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:55 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschildm View Post
Interesting ... using the ratchet strap was faster for you? I messed with that for quite a while but got no where. This method went pretty quickly.

On another note, if this is a fresh fill or you are trying to completely flush, make sure you keep checking the reservoir and adding fluid as required.
I rebuilt my brake system and I was able to get a full actuator stroke the ratchet strap and keep constant pressure on the system
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  #4960  
Old 07-17-2014, 10:33 PM
Jens916sp3 Jens916sp3 is offline
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Worked on transmission

Had to replace the transmission output seal. Old one was leaking..
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