Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Electrical

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-05-2014, 10:23 AM
scottsexton2775 scottsexton2775 is offline
TT Newbie
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Boat: 2003 Mastercraft X-10
Location: west
Posts: 1
Fuel gauge

New to boating. Have a 2003 X-10 with 185 hours. Filled fuel up and used boat for 3 days in a row. Fuel gauge hasn't moved past FULL. I look in tank its its half full.

Can someone let me know how to trouble shoot whats wrong with gauge or other?

Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-05-2014, 10:34 AM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2000 230 VRS
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,286
Unfortunately the whole system from sender to MDC (The "middle man" computer) to the gauge is crap and each component is quite failure prone.

Test the sender first:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ghlight=sender

Hopefully that's the problem as it's the easiest fix. If it's bad I'd replace it with an aftermarket mechanical 2 wire sender such as the Wema SSS. The OE Centroid solid state senders are crap. The Wema SSS was recommended by another forum member and is about $35 depending on what length you need. I swapped one in on mine and it's been working fine thus far. Be sure to trim your screws or buy shorter stainless ones if you do go with the Wema as it's much lower profile than the Centroid sender. If you use the original screws they will blow through the plastic dimple/pockets in the tank and you'll be more prone to leak around the sender when the tank is full. Just cut off the connector on the OE/Centroid sender and splice it to the new one leaving the red wire unused. I removed it from the connector entirely. It must be insulated so that it doesn't contact ground and create a spark.

If the sender checks out then it's either the gauge or your MDC. You can go through the MDC troubleshooting guide but I found it to be a waste of time and got inconclusive results.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-05-2014, 10:44 AM
Jeff d Jeff d is offline
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: May 2010
Boat: 2000 230 VRS
Location: Southeast
Posts: 1,286
BTW I made the Wema sender swap sound more complicated than it is. It's a 10 minute job but I just wanted to make you aware of the need to insulate or remove the red wire and the screw length issue. It's very simple. The bolt pattern for the senders is pretty well standardized in the marine industry but it is "directional" for lack of a better term. You have to keep rotating the sender until you find the spot where all of the holes line up. They're intentionally not symmetrical so if you just drop it in and start putting your screws in the last one will likely not line up. Rotate it until all holes line up perfectly and then start putting your screws in.

If your boat is like most of this vintage this will be your first of many gauge failures. They notoriously suck so bad that this is the route I went:
http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=61353
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-06-2014, 04:40 PM
bturner2's Avatar
bturner2 bturner2 is online now
MC Devotee
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Boat: Maristar 200VRS w/ X2 Package, 2007, 310HP
Location: Brighton, MI
Posts: 2,373
^^^^ What he said^^^^ Medallion makes junk. Can't believe tier one vendors still use this junk. All the tier one vendors are having the same problems. They somehow managed to sell this same garbage to all of them. They basically took an inexpensive, accurate and reliable system and made it inaccurate, prone to failure and expensive to fix. This will only get worse as the touch screen versions start to age.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
electrical, fuel, fuel gauge

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:14 AM.