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  #21  
Old 04-19-2014, 01:42 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTsuth View Post
So I got down to removing the 2nd Tstat and decided since I was down that far already I would replace the water pump...

My question is this.... Will a standard LT1 water pump suffice if I cap the extra heater port coming out of it? Indmar wants $550 bucks for theirs, NAPA wants $100.00 for the standard corvette LT1 water pump. Capping the heater port should be simple and we'll worth $400 savings if that is an ok thing to do...

Will that work ok?
yes - use extra 400 for beer and gas..
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  #22  
Old 04-19-2014, 10:48 PM
MrTsuth MrTsuth is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimN View Post
You don't need to go to Indmar for the pump, but it absolutely MUST be for an LT-1 because this engine uses 'reverse-cooling', which means the heads are cooled before the block and no other pump will work.

Yes- cap off the heater port and you're good.

If your pump is working, there's no reason to replace it.
I am officially so confused!

I have now replaced both the 160 and 143 thermostats. I used indmar parts. I replaced the water pump.

Still having an overheating problem.

Like I stated in a previous post, the water lines going to the exhaust risers and the risers themselves seem to stay cool... But the line going into and out of the water pump seem to remain very hot.. The water flow seems to be limited.... (Not as much flow as the exhaust lines) and the temp is bearable by touch.... But the motor is in fact overheating.. However, it only went into limp mode once, even though the gauge was pinned at 240...

While I had everything off, I checked thoroughly for debris and blockage... And everything appeared to be clear..

The boat actually ran great!!! It just overheats after about 7-10 minutes at about 3000 rpms..

I am so confused...

I may be to the point that I have to take it to the dealer unless there are anymore recommendations. I just hate that price tag!
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  #23  
Old 04-19-2014, 11:27 PM
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Rockman Rockman is offline
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Be careful with the rising temp on your LT1...you cold do alot of damage that will just cause more headaches and cost alot!

Only thing I can think of with you saying flowage is limted is SOMETHING is clogged somewhere, this assuming no issues with the water pump and T Stats...


Did you have the boat in the water testing or on the hose? I think by your comments, you were in the water.

I would suggest starting to pull hose by hose, check the intake, and rule out everything piece by piece...hope you get this fixed asap!
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  #24  
Old 04-19-2014, 11:47 PM
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As a shade tree mechanic, I would pull the thermostat from the top of the water pump and see what the result is. Leave the mixing thermostat in. As Rockman said, make sure the hoses from the water pump to the mixer are clear. I also think we are all assuming your impeller and your raw water pump are good.
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  #25  
Old 04-20-2014, 12:27 AM
MrTsuth MrTsuth is offline
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I have been doing a lot of research tonight due to my confusion and frustration...

I have come across service bulletin mc 96-100.... Moving the breather from the rear of the heads to the front of the heads... This upgrade has not been made on my boat. Further, the problem began to occur late in the fall, when water temps began to cool... And thus far, water temps have not began to warm up.

My assumption is that this could create steam pockets much easier...

If you think this may be my problem, could someone provide a copy of the bulletin? I can't find an exact copy. I get the gist of it, but a parts list would help tremendously..
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  #26  
Old 04-20-2014, 12:29 AM
MrTsuth MrTsuth is offline
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I have made sure all hoses are clear... And I've replaced my impeller... My raw water pump/impeller seem to be doing their job..
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  #27  
Old 04-20-2014, 08:59 AM
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http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=31626
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  #28  
Old 04-20-2014, 07:03 PM
MrTsuth MrTsuth is offline
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Did the service bulletin...

It's better... But not totally fixed... It still gets real hot and eventually goes into limp mode..

Any other suggestions???

1. Replaced both 143 and 160 thermostats with indmar replacements. Drilled hole in 160 Tstat
2. Replaced water pump
3. Replaced impeller
4. Checked all lines thoroughly for debris
5. Performed service bulletin to move head breather tubes to front sides of heads
6. Replaced coolant temp sensor coming off water pump
7. Replaced wiring pigtail into coolant temp sensor

I am at a LOSS....

Unless there are any more suggestions... It may be time to take it to the dealer.

One more run through of symptoms..

Once launched... Runs great at 2000-3500 rpms. No problems.
Once I throttle off, temp begins to rise.
SOMETIMES when I throttle back up, it cools.... Sometimes it does not.
Inevitably, if I bring it down to idle, temp rises to 240...
Sometimes it goes into limp mode, sometimes it does not.

It is no where near repaired enough to rely on for a weekend at lake Powell or lakes of the like size and remoteness.

Any more suggestions?
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  #29  
Old 04-20-2014, 07:08 PM
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Pull the 160 and see what it does without it. When I bought my boat it didn't have the 160 and would run 120 all day.
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  #30  
Old 04-20-2014, 09:43 PM
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I've read the whole thread and you say there are no blockages, but I don't see where anyone has suggested removing the intake hose from the transmission cooler. There is a screen in the transmission cooler that could be blocked with weeds, etc.
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2000 rpms, bogging, flooded, starving

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