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  #11  
Old 10-15-2013, 01:15 AM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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The nut holds the driveshaft onto the coupler. The four bolts hold the coupler together. I don't think (i.e. I could be wrong) you NEED to seperate the coupler; but to do a good alignment at the end you really SHOULD. You won't want to go through all the effort that you're going to put in without aligning the shaft.

I haven't had to pull the driveshaft on mine, but it looks a lot like yours - a serious PITA. Too close to get a puller between the trans and the fuel tank. The driveshaft is a taper fit into the coupler, so it might take some work. Hopefully, someone who's done it before will be along to give their sage wisdom.

/frank
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2013, 08:22 AM
snork snork is online now
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remove the nut on the coupler then connect a slide hammer to the threads at the prop end, let me know if you have someone in mind to straighten the prop shaft
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2013, 01:04 AM
Nmlaz Nmlaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snork View Post
remove the nut on the coupler then connect a slide hammer to the threads at the prop end, let me know if you have someone in mind to straighten the prop shaft
I didn't know you could straighten them...why do you? Also, does that mean I have to remove strut? I just got that dang thing on there.
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  #14  
Old 10-16-2013, 03:30 AM
FrankSchwab FrankSchwab is offline
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No need to remove the strut - with the nut and prop removed, you'll be able to pull the shaft out right next to the rudder (it's offset slightly to the side). Note that you will need to repack the stuffing box when you pull the shaft - but that's a quick, easy, cheap job.
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2013, 08:42 AM
snork snork is online now
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Nmlaz has a '07 so no packing required with the dripless shaft seal
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  #16  
Old 10-17-2013, 11:21 AM
Nmlaz Nmlaz is offline
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Thumbs up

Thanks guys!
Snork, can the drive line be straightened? If so by who? Thanks again for all your help...nice to know I don't need to repack anything.
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  #17  
Old 04-15-2014, 05:32 PM
Nmlaz Nmlaz is offline
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Originally Posted by snork View Post
remove the nut on the coupler then connect a slide hammer to the threads at the prop end, let me know if you have someone in mind to straighten the prop shaft
Ok, I'm actually doing it now...how do you get that nut off? Lol...I mean, there has to be a tool to hold the flange or something.
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  #18  
Old 04-15-2014, 06:43 PM
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GoneBoatN GoneBoatN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snork View Post
Nmlaz has a '07 so no packing required with the dripless shaft seal
But I think you are suppose to wrap the threaded end that you will be pulling through the dripless to protect it from being damaged from the threads. See step 6 at http://www.skidim.blogspot.com/. I recall seeing that you can wrap the threads with electrical tape to do the same thing.

Also, I remember seeing information that said not to hit against the transmission flange to remove the coupler as it can damage the transmission. Read this thread starting around post #9 - http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=35163.

Last edited by GoneBoatN; 04-15-2014 at 11:20 PM. Reason: updated to include link to thread referenced
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  #19  
Old 04-15-2014, 06:45 PM
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GoneBoatN GoneBoatN is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nmlaz View Post
Ok, I'm actually doing it now...how do you get that nut off? Lol...I mean, there has to be a tool to hold the flange or something.
You could use a wood block at the prop, between it and the hull. I've seen that suggested before.

Another way: put a box wrench on one of the 4 x coupler bolts and use a block of wood where the box wrench would be contacting the hull. Loosening the shaft nut should be tightening the coupler bolts so I would thing that would work. This way you don't take a chance on bending the prop with the suggestion above. I kind of do the same thing when I'm doing the alignment as I put an open end wrench on the nut in the back of the coupler bolt. That then contacts the engine mount and keeps the coupler/shaft from rotating. Then I easily loosen the coupler bolts using a socket wrench.
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