Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Electrical

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #301  
Old 04-04-2014, 06:53 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by chooverton View Post
I am finally going to install the SR200 i have had sitting in the garage for 6 months this weekend. Quick question, i have searched all over and couldn't find an answer, although i bet it is here. What Gauge wire do i need for the non-battery connections? Would some 12 GA primary wire work for both the ignition and ground wire (small terminals). I am using 0 gauge for the battery cable. May be be overkill but i got a deal on it. Thanks
If 12 AWG is what you have at no extra cost, it will work. I understand that you're wiring the relay to the ignition...

.
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
Reply With Quote
  #302  
Old 06-22-2014, 02:40 PM
wilsonck wilsonck is online now
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 37
I have a 2002 Prostar 209 and I have the blue Seas 9001e switch( 4 position OFF, 1, 2 or 1+2) that I wanted to install. My problem seems to be around the current positive pole of the single battery that was there.

I took the amp connections off the starter battery and moved to the house battery. I then had a positive cable from each battery to the switch and a ground cable between the negative posts on each battery. The only thing remaining was to move something from the start battery to the 1+2 post on the switch.

There are 2 cables remaining from the original setup on the positive post of my battery. One cable goes to the starter and has the regular battery post connector on it and the other one looks to go to the fuse box/ignition under the dash.

Are both of these cables supposed to go to common post? If so, then it appears that I need to cut off the regular battery post connector to put on a ring connector(I don't particularly want to do this)
Reply With Quote
  #303  
Old 06-22-2014, 05:13 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
The answer to your question lies within this thread. Read back several posts. There are several schematics for reference.

Your last statement doesn't make sense. If you have this thing wired up to this extent, why would you have the start cable still hanging loose? That cable should leave the switch to the starter. I feel certain that you know what you have done but I am not sure I understand... Don't cut anything just yet...

Theoretically, everything from the house battery should be terminated from a hot bus bar and everything should be grounded to a ground bus terminal.

However, if you wire your switch like has been previously discussed throughout this thread and according to the schematic, you should be ready for lift off.

.
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.

Last edited by Cloaked; 06-22-2014 at 05:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #304  
Old 06-22-2014, 07:55 PM
wilsonck wilsonck is online now
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 37
well, in answer to your question, I had the cables connected to the switch, but not to the + post on the batteries yet. I was just laying things out to understand it all and when I got to what needed to go to the 1+2 or the common connection, that is where I started looking at the 2 cables left on the battery and figured that the one that goes to the starter had to go to the common post.... and I didn't want to cut any ends off.

I have read through the thread and looked at a bunch of schematics. But for some reason, the last step isn't clicking yet.
Reply With Quote
  #305  
Old 06-22-2014, 08:03 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
Quote:
Originally Posted by wilsonck View Post
well, in answer to your question, I had the cables connected to the switch, but not to the + post on the batteries yet. I was just laying things out to understand it all and when I got to what needed to go to the 1+2 or the common connection, that is where I started looking at the 2 cables left on the battery and figured that the one that goes to the starter had to go to the common post.... and I didn't want to cut any ends off.

I have read through the thread and looked at a bunch of schematics. But for some reason, the last step isn't clicking yet.
Look at the schematic closely.

The + cable from battery goes to a switch terminal (you'll have to determine). That allows isolation with different settings (depending on the switch setting and the ignition position). From the + terminal on the switch, that goes to the start battery. When you use the switch to prepare for liftoff, that setting will connect the battery to the starter as commanded by the ignition position (purple wire). I still do not fully understand your 'last step' dilemma. Wire it like the schematic shows and go from there. The schematic does not allow for any loose cables...

.
Attached Images
   
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.

Last edited by Cloaked; 06-22-2014 at 08:19 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #306  
Old 06-22-2014, 08:17 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
You will have two hot cables coming from each battery, going to two different locations (each). You also need a fuse for each hot near each + battery. I used terminal post fuses.
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
Reply With Quote
  #307  
Old 06-22-2014, 08:24 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
MC Maniac
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
Posts: 4,602
I think you can now see the benefit of the KISS principle. An isolation switch as the original poster stated is really all you need. The bank switch only makes it more complicated and expensive. Were I to do it again, I'd not mess with the bank switch.

.
__________________
93 190
.
Don't be a boot licker
.

Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
Reply With Quote
  #308  
Old 06-22-2014, 09:38 PM
wilsonck wilsonck is online now
TT Regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 37
My last step, is what you show with the "hot from Terminal to starter" cable above. I will need to cut the battery post end off the existing wire and put on one of the O-ring connectors to connect it to the switch.

With the kit that I bought, I don't have the isolation switch(black box) that you show.

Thanks for the info. I think I need to read the thread again to see if I will use this switch or do it a different way.
Reply With Quote
  #309  
Old 06-23-2014, 09:49 AM
Kweisner's Avatar
Kweisner Kweisner is offline
TT Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Boat: 2007 Prostar 197
Location: Southeast
Posts: 420
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
I think you can now see the benefit of the KISS principle. An isolation switch as the original poster stated is really all you need. The bank switch only makes it more complicated and expensive. Were I to do it again, I'd not mess with the bank switch.
Well said. I did the original install and it's been completely "no-touch" foolproof. Never have to think about it (unless of course at some point the relay fails, in which case the ONLY downside is the house/stereo battery doesn't get charged by the alternator). Cheaper too.
__________________
"This one goes to eleven." 2007 ProStar 197 TT w/MCX and Powerslot.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
amp, ballast, batteries, stereo, system

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:24 PM.