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  #11  
Old 03-26-2014, 02:26 PM
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VerdiRiverRat VerdiRiverRat is offline
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Boat: 1994 Mastercraft Maristar
Location: Oklahoma
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So I was just talking to a friend and he suggested that I consider getting a deep cycle battery and just run my stereo through that. And in doing this I'll have to rewire it and that may inadvertently correct these other issues. I'm always nervous about running my stereo with the engine off anyway so I think this would alleviate that anxiety of dying in the middle of the water. Any thoughts or suggestions there?
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  #12  
Old 03-26-2014, 02:44 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by VerdiRiverRat View Post
So I was just talking to a friend and he suggested that I consider getting a deep cycle battery and just run my stereo through that. And in doing this I'll have to rewire it and that may inadvertently correct these other issues. I'm always nervous about running my stereo with the engine off anyway so I think this would alleviate that anxiety of dying in the middle of the water. Any thoughts or suggestions there?
Regardless of the type of battery, the wiring needs to be corrected. Also, that new deep cycle battery will need to be charged and running it all the way down isn't good for the electronics connected to it. You can do that, but be prepared to upgrade some other things.

If you do add a battery, it can be set up so the audio system and battery are totally isolated from the rest of the boat's wiring. The main thing to remember is how long that battery will last without being charged. They have a reserve capacity spec- how you use the stereo will obviously affect the reserve, but you should get a few hours if you don't crank it too loud.

If it goes totally dead, just remember that your alternator will hate you if you try to charge a battery that's stone dead.
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2014, 10:57 AM
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VerdiRiverRat VerdiRiverRat is offline
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Quick update. So I reran the power and ground cables for each amp. Now both have their own power and ground wires, with no interruption, running straight to the battery. This seemed to have corrected the problem with sub amp playing on the tower speakers.

Now I just have horrible engine noise to deal with. I'm going to look at my head unit ground and see bout that. JimN, you said I should ground it to the stud on the back of the unit...what if I just ran the ground from the deck to the ground connection on the amp?
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  #14  
Old 04-01-2014, 01:00 PM
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JimN JimN is offline
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Originally Posted by VerdiRiverRat View Post
Quick update. So I reran the power and ground cables for each amp. Now both have their own power and ground wires, with no interruption, running straight to the battery. This seemed to have corrected the problem with sub amp playing on the tower speakers.

Now I just have horrible engine noise to deal with. I'm going to look at my head unit ground and see bout that. JimN, you said I should ground it to the stud on the back of the unit...what if I just ran the ground from the deck to the ground connection on the amp?
The head unit's ground wire should be looped to the stud and the new head unit's ground wire should be attached to the same spot. If you use a distribution block for the ground wires (makes wiring everything much easier), the head unit gets its own port. Ideally, all equipment gets its power from one distribution block and all of the grounds are connected to another. This makes it possible to avoid ground loops. Connecting the head unit to one amp and not the other leaves you with the possibility of noise because there's probably some resistance between the amplfiers, due to their being fed by different cables, each with its own path.

Try running a new ground the way you posted- if it works, it works.
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