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  #291  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:18 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
PP was set up to tach originally but voltage dropped too much (1.5v) with key on, PP customer service recommended rewiring purple wire from tach to ignition switch and run another ground wire directly from negative battery terminal.

No, I'm not manually controlling the banks. The perko switch that I have has only "on" and "off" not like the 1/2/off I've seen. Since, I do not manually switch from battery 1 or 2 then a 16awg to ignition switch is next move? I can do that!
Correct. So now make sure you wire the ignition switch properly. I was a bit baffled but It's clear now..

Purple should go to accessory, causing the isolator to fail open when you switch there.


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  #292  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:24 PM
MLA MLA is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
Forgive my ignorance but for "house loads" (top Left connection as shown on pdf below), all I have hooked up to the perko switch is my sub amp. What should be set up to the house loads connection? My single battery set up was 2awg from the engine ground and to the starter. Should there be more to the "house loads" connection other than the sub amp?

side note, both batteries read 12.7x on volt meter with engine off (without putting on trickle charger).

Thanks a lot for helping me out!

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../990310020.pdf
A "house load" is anything you want to run when the engine is off and have it draw off the newly installed "house bank"

Your head-unit should also be connected house bank. Odd are, its drawing off the cranking as it originally was.
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  #293  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
At the batteries, I have nothing other than the engine power, engine ground, and sub amp power/ground. Should I do something with the ignition switch wiring? Side note, I rewired PP power to ignition switch to help with voltage drop from PP.
The only cables connected directly to the battery B+ posts are the cables going to the #1b and #2b posts and the auto bilge.

Nothing needs to be done to the key switch when installing the add-a-battery
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  #294  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:30 PM
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_fng_ _fng_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA View Post
A "house load" is anything you want to run when the engine is off and have it draw off the newly installed "house bank"

Your head-unit should also be connected house bank. Odd are, its drawing off the cranking as it originally was.
Thanks for the help guys! If I could buy you guys a beer, I would!
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  #295  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
As it was "optional" I did not install this part of the diagram. Eureka??
You do need to wire up the SI terminal. I dont think thats your issue.
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  #296  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:36 PM
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_fng_ _fng_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA View Post
You do need to wire up the SI terminal. I dont think thats your issue.
Do you mean do not need to wire SI terminal? In your previous post you say that I don't need to mess with ignition switch. Do you think the head unit connected to cranking battery could draw enough load to cause a hesitation in starting?

My next step will be running a SI to the ignition to see if it reduces the hesitation when starting...other than that, I may take it somewhere.

Here is what mine looks like.
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  #297  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA View Post
You do need to wire up the SI terminal. I dont think thats your issue.
Sorry, need to make an edit here! I left out NOT

You DO NOT need to wire the SI terminal. its getting late, my eyes are tired and im watching the race that should have already been run
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  #298  
Old 03-10-2014, 11:38 AM
kblanch09 kblanch09 is offline
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Does the isolated relay allow you to always be able to start the engine even if the aux battery is dead?

Last edited by kblanch09; 03-10-2014 at 12:07 PM.
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  #299  
Old 03-10-2014, 04:24 PM
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Kweisner Kweisner is offline
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The Official Dual Battery Thread

^ If you are referring to the original setup posted by Diesel on page 1, then yes, that is the basic premise. If you read back in this thread you will see there are those folks that say once you join the drained AUX/house battery with the starter battery, there is a chance that the starter batt will be drained by the house batt. Technically this is true.

Practically speaking, the period of time between when the batteries are coupled and the starter is engaged is going to be less than a second or two, so I don't know if this is a legit concern. I have the isolator setup, and so far, I've never had a starting issue and I enjoy not worrying about switch positions, my memory, etc.
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  #300  
Old 04-04-2014, 05:59 PM
chooverton chooverton is offline
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I am finally going to install the SR200 i have had sitting in the garage for 6 months this weekend. Quick question, i have searched all over and couldn't find an answer, although i bet it is here. What Gauge wire do i need for the non-battery connections? Would some 12 GA primary wire work for both the ignition and ground wire (small terminals). I am using 0 gauge for the battery cable. May be be overkill but i got a deal on it. Thanks
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