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  #281  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:00 PM
MLA MLA is online now
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Does this mean I did not install it correctly? Any trouble-shooting advice before I call blue seas tomorrow
I think so. Sounds like some of the house loads are still wired to the cranking battery. With the switch alone, your house loads should be isolated from the cranking. The ACR is mainly there to allow the house banks to receive a charge when the engine is running.
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  #282  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:02 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by MLA View Post
I think so. Sounds like some of the house loads are still wired to the cranking battery. With the switch alone, your house loads should be isolated from the cranking. The ACR is mainly there to allow the house banks to receive a charge when the engine is running.
+1 ......

Or the switch/ACR is not wired correctly. Blue Seas has a good diagram on their site as to the proper schematic.
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  #283  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:19 PM
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Forgive my ignorance but for "house loads" (top Left connection as shown on pdf below), all I have hooked up to the perko switch is my sub amp. What should be set up to the house loads connection? My single battery set up was 2awg from the engine ground and to the starter. Should there be more to the "house loads" connection other than the sub amp?

side note, both batteries read 12.7x on volt meter with engine off (without putting on trickle charger).

Thanks a lot for helping me out!

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../990310020.pdf
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  #284  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:30 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
Forgive my ignorance but for "house loads" (top Left connection as shown on pdf below), all I have hooked up to the perko switch is my sub amp. What should be set up to the house loads connection? My single battery set up was 2awg from the engine ground and to the starter. Should there be more to the "house loads" connection other than the sub amp?

side note, both batteries read 12.7x on volt meter with engine off (without putting on trickle charger).

Thanks a lot for helping me out!

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../990310020.pdf
That is the correct schematic.

Everything should be on house load, cranking battery to only the engine.

However, you seem to have the big draws on the house battery and for only 1.5 hours, I'd think it should support the draw. But that is not the issue....

Your boat hesitated a few turns before it fully engaged?? correct?

The hesitation may have been a combined bank (a sink or drop of unequal charge or banks). So if you have the Perko switch wired as a closed circuit while the engine is off, you are pulling from both banks and the load may have been the culprit until the banks were closer to an equal state.

I hope this makes sense. I'm trying not to intertwine issues.

Do you have your system wired like the diagram? Isolator wired to the ignition switch correctly? The isolator should be on the same ignition switch terminal as the purple wire IIRC.

Sitting still, the isolator should fail open, isolating the batteries. When you crank, the ignition switch commands the start battery ("start" position terminal) to engage the starter. The isolator then fails closed (as the switch returns to the 'on' position) and combines the banks for charging while underway. When the ignition is off or accessory position (purple wire on the igniton is where the isolator wire should be), the isolator is open with isolation. Back to full circle, all loads should be on the house battery, leaving the start battery for the obvious.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 02-23-2014 at 08:43 PM.
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  #285  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post

Your boat hesitated a few turns before it fully engaged?? correct?

Correct

The hesitation may have been a combined bank (a sink or drop of unequal charge or banks). So if you have the Perko switch wired as a closed circuit while the engine is off, you are pulling from both banks and the load may have been the culprit until the banks were closer to an equal state.

Any way to determine if the circuit is closed? For the next question, yes it is wired exactly per the diagram (house load being sub amp)

Do you have your system wired like the diagram?

Yes
A buddy who used to do car stereo installations looked over my set up and said it looked good but he admitted he hadn't seen this system before.

Thanks!
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  #286  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:51 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
A buddy who used to do car stereo installations looked over my set up and said it looked good but he admitted he hadn't seen this system before.

Thanks!
The isolator switch has a green light on it. It should blink when the switch is failed closed. It should be a steady green when failed open. There is an accessory small LED light that you can purchase and place on the dash if you feel the need to monitor the isolator at any time. I do not have it but it's available.

Make sure you have the isolator wired properly to the ignition switch for proper commands to the isolator.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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  #287  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Do you have your system wired like the diagram? Isolator wired to the ignition switch correctly? The isolator should be on the same ignition switch terminal as the purple wire IIRC.

Sitting still, the isolator should fail open, isolating the batteries. When you crank, the ignition switch commands the start battery ("start" position terminal) to engage the starter. The isolator then fails closed (as the switch returns to the 'on' position) and combines the banks for charging while underway. When the ignition is off or accessory position (purple wire on the igniton is where the isolator wire should be), the isolator is open with isolation. Back to full circle, all loads should be on the house battery, leaving the start battery for the obvious.
At the batteries, I have nothing other than the engine power, engine ground, and sub amp power/ground. Should I do something with the ignition switch wiring? Side note, I rewired PP power to ignition switch to help with voltage drop from PP.
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  #288  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
The isolator switch has a green light on it. It should blink when the switch is failed closed. It should be a steady green when failed open.

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As it was "optional" I did not install this part of the diagram. Eureka??
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  #289  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:03 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
At the batteries, I have nothing other than the engine power, engine ground, and sub amp power/ground. Should I do something with the ignition switch wiring? Side note, I rewired PP power to ignition switch to help with voltage drop from PP.
Makes more sense now, knowing you have manual switching. Thus the ignition switch wiring has no bearing since you switch manually with the Perko. PP needs power from somewhere. I wired my PP to the tachometer. The isolation does what you tell it to do with a manual turn. I hope I am reading this correctly as you describe.

My reference to the isolator switch is a moot point. You are the isolator with no purple wire..

Quote:
Originally Posted by _fng_ View Post
As it was "optional" I did not install this part of the diagram. Eureka??
No big deal other than automation and convenience. What truly was optional was the Perko switch. I'd have installed the isolator and left off the Perko. You are manually controlling the banks but I am not certain how you are closing the loop during operation for charging both banks.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

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Last edited by Cloaked; 02-23-2014 at 09:21 PM.
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  #290  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Makes more sense now, knowing you have manual switching. Thus the ignition switch wiring has no bearing since you switch manually with the Perko. PP needs power from somewhere. I wired my PP to the tachometer, but ultimately, that comes through the ignition switch. The isolator does what you tell it to do with a manual turn. I hope I am reading this correctly as you describe.

My reference to the isolator switch is a moot point. You are the isolator with no purple wire..

No big deal other than automation and convenience. What truly was optional was the Perko switch. I'd have installed the isolator and left off the Perko. You are manually controlling the banks but I am not certain how you are closing the loop during operation for charging both banks.
PP was set up to tach originally but voltage dropped too much (1.5v) with key on, PP customer service recommended rewiring purple wire from tach to ignition switch and run another ground wire directly from negative battery terminal.

No, I'm not manually controlling the banks. The perko switch that I have has only "on" and "off" not like the 1/2/off I've seen. Since, I do not manually switch from battery 1 or 2 then a 16awg to ignition switch is next move? I can do that!
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