Go Back   TeamTalk > Maintenance Tips, How-tos and Refurbishing Topics > Electrical

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #281  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:00 PM
MLA MLA is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2012
Boat: pontoon
Location: Lake Wylie Area
Posts: 844
Quote:
Does this mean I did not install it correctly? Any trouble-shooting advice before I call blue seas tomorrow
I think so. Sounds like some of the house loads are still wired to the cranking battery. With the switch alone, your house loads should be isolated from the cranking. The ACR is mainly there to allow the house banks to receive a charge when the engine is running.
Reply With Quote
  #282  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:02 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: wooden, boat, 1908, putt
Location: lake
Posts: 10,888
..........
__________________
Barack Hussein Obama
Worst President Ever.
Elected by White Guilt.
66 Million Suckers.

Last edited by waterlogged882; 09-17-2015 at 08:46 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #283  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:19 PM
_fng_'s Avatar
_fng_ _fng_ is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: Prostar 205
Location: Texas
Posts: 585
Forgive my ignorance but for "house loads" (top Left connection as shown on pdf below), all I have hooked up to the perko switch is my sub amp. What should be set up to the house loads connection? My single battery set up was 2awg from the engine ground and to the starter. Should there be more to the "house loads" connection other than the sub amp?

side note, both batteries read 12.7x on volt meter with engine off (without putting on trickle charger).

Thanks a lot for helping me out!

http://assets.bluesea.com/files/reso.../990310020.pdf
Reply With Quote
  #284  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:30 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: wooden, boat, 1908, putt
Location: lake
Posts: 10,888
..........
__________________
Barack Hussein Obama
Worst President Ever.
Elected by White Guilt.
66 Million Suckers.

Last edited by waterlogged882; 09-17-2015 at 08:46 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #285  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:47 PM
_fng_'s Avatar
_fng_ _fng_ is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: Prostar 205
Location: Texas
Posts: 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post

Your boat hesitated a few turns before it fully engaged?? correct?

Correct

The hesitation may have been a combined bank (a sink or drop of unequal charge or banks). So if you have the Perko switch wired as a closed circuit while the engine is off, you are pulling from both banks and the load may have been the culprit until the banks were closer to an equal state.

Any way to determine if the circuit is closed? For the next question, yes it is wired exactly per the diagram (house load being sub amp)

Do you have your system wired like the diagram?

Yes
A buddy who used to do car stereo installations looked over my set up and said it looked good but he admitted he hadn't seen this system before.

Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #286  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:51 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: wooden, boat, 1908, putt
Location: lake
Posts: 10,888
..........
__________________
Barack Hussein Obama
Worst President Ever.
Elected by White Guilt.
66 Million Suckers.

Last edited by waterlogged882; 09-17-2015 at 08:47 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #287  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:53 PM
_fng_'s Avatar
_fng_ _fng_ is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: Prostar 205
Location: Texas
Posts: 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Do you have your system wired like the diagram? Isolator wired to the ignition switch correctly? The isolator should be on the same ignition switch terminal as the purple wire IIRC.

Sitting still, the isolator should fail open, isolating the batteries. When you crank, the ignition switch commands the start battery ("start" position terminal) to engage the starter. The isolator then fails closed (as the switch returns to the 'on' position) and combines the banks for charging while underway. When the ignition is off or accessory position (purple wire on the igniton is where the isolator wire should be), the isolator is open with isolation. Back to full circle, all loads should be on the house battery, leaving the start battery for the obvious.
At the batteries, I have nothing other than the engine power, engine ground, and sub amp power/ground. Should I do something with the ignition switch wiring? Side note, I rewired PP power to ignition switch to help with voltage drop from PP.
Reply With Quote
  #288  
Old 02-23-2014, 08:54 PM
_fng_'s Avatar
_fng_ _fng_ is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: Prostar 205
Location: Texas
Posts: 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
The isolator switch has a green light on it. It should blink when the switch is failed closed. It should be a steady green when failed open.

.
As it was "optional" I did not install this part of the diagram. Eureka??
Reply With Quote
  #289  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:03 PM
waterlogged882 waterlogged882 is offline
MC Master Poster
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Boat: wooden, boat, 1908, putt
Location: lake
Posts: 10,888
..........
__________________
Barack Hussein Obama
Worst President Ever.
Elected by White Guilt.
66 Million Suckers.

Last edited by waterlogged882; 09-17-2015 at 08:48 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #290  
Old 02-23-2014, 09:15 PM
_fng_'s Avatar
_fng_ _fng_ is offline
MC Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Boat: Prostar 205
Location: Texas
Posts: 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloaked View Post
Makes more sense now, knowing you have manual switching. Thus the ignition switch wiring has no bearing since you switch manually with the Perko. PP needs power from somewhere. I wired my PP to the tachometer, but ultimately, that comes through the ignition switch. The isolator does what you tell it to do with a manual turn. I hope I am reading this correctly as you describe.

My reference to the isolator switch is a moot point. You are the isolator with no purple wire..

No big deal other than automation and convenience. What truly was optional was the Perko switch. I'd have installed the isolator and left off the Perko. You are manually controlling the banks but I am not certain how you are closing the loop during operation for charging both banks.
PP was set up to tach originally but voltage dropped too much (1.5v) with key on, PP customer service recommended rewiring purple wire from tach to ignition switch and run another ground wire directly from negative battery terminal.

No, I'm not manually controlling the banks. The perko switch that I have has only "on" and "off" not like the 1/2/off I've seen. Since, I do not manually switch from battery 1 or 2 then a 16awg to ignition switch is next move? I can do that!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
amp, ballast, batteries, stereo, system

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:54 AM.