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  #21  
Old 05-26-2012, 05:12 PM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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I use the Makita B06040 which is a two mode machine. It is random orbit but also has a forced circular mode. The circular mode still has a bit of 'giggle' which makes it more forgiving than a standard circular polisher but still has plenty of cut.
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  #22  
Old 05-26-2012, 05:12 PM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jakethebt View Post
Hey BrianM, Did you remove the sun pad for buffing or was it off for something else?
The sun pad was off just for cleaning. The boat was filthy.
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  #23  
Old 02-19-2014, 08:52 PM
lake weir skier lake weir skier is offline
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BrianM, which Lake Country wool pads are you using for your initial step with 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound? Twisted wool? Foamed wool? Size?

I’m pretty much trying to duplicate your methods with a Flex 3401, which has a motion similar to your Makita B06040 in its orbital plus forced rotation mode.
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  #24  
Old 02-19-2014, 09:33 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lake weir skier View Post
BrianM, which Lake Country wool pads are you using for your initial step with 3M Super Duty Rubbing Compound? Twisted wool? Foamed wool? Size?

I’m pretty much trying to duplicate your methods with a Flex 3401, which has a motion similar to your Makita B06040 in its orbital plus forced rotation mode.
Not speaking for Brian, but the twisted wool is the ticket for the 3MSD Compound. They cost a little more but they also will give you a better result as well as a little longer life for use. I like to have three on hand for working a long while, keep two clean as I use another. They dry out quickly if you'll put the head in a 5 gal bucket and spin out the water with the buffer. Otherwise it's slow drying and a long wait when the other pad gets dirty. I do not buy the special soap they offer at $3.00 per pack. Dish washing liquid soap works just fine.

The size will depend on your machine. If it has a 5" backing plate, you'll need a 6-1/2" diameter pad. Please double check this information for your machine.

Lake Country is good stuff. I too have followed Brian's methodology with satisfactory results. Buy the curved edge pads.

A circular machine will cut a little better and the random orbital works well from there on out. The random orbital will work fine if a circular is not available.

Microfiber cloth towels are a must. I find those in 30 packs at Sam's Club or Costco for little of nothing.
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  #25  
Old 02-20-2014, 08:06 AM
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BrianM BrianM is offline
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^^^ What he said.
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  #26  
Old 02-20-2014, 10:09 AM
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TayMC197 TayMC197 is offline
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Collinite 920, it's the shiznit!! Ask Kyle.. He can verify..
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  #27  
Old 02-20-2014, 11:36 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is offline
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Great job on both the boat and the write-up. That will help a lot of people on here.
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  #28  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:26 AM
rydog rydog is offline
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It's hard to tell from the pictures bit when you say oxidation do you mean from like years outside? My boat sits in the water all summer so the bottom of the hull got stained and dull, would I use the same procedure?
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  #29  
Old 02-22-2014, 07:38 AM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rydog View Post
It's hard to tell from the pictures bit when you say oxidation do you mean from like years outside? My boat sits in the water all summer so the bottom of the hull got stained and dull, would I use the same procedure?
Oxidation is typically (using that word loose-lipped) from UV exposure and no care for the fiberglass (wax, etc).

Sitting in the water all summer is different. You may very well be able to clean your issue of neglect with toilet bowl cleaner (seriously).

Unless water docking is the only option, leaving a boat in the water for months on end is not the best approach for fiberglass care. As a result of that, likely (merely a guess on my part) you are also inducing UV exposure to other parts of the boat (thus oxidation.. a lighter chalky-looking consequence of UV damage). Grime and yellowing may be considered oxidation in one sense or another but I don't consider that anything other than a least-desirable way for boat docking or storage and poor care (honesty not a malicious statement). Eventually the glass will start to de-laminate and/or bubble from water saturation. Fiberglass is porous....

Now, if the grunge doesn't clean up with bowl cleaner, then a compound cut or sanding may be required.

Best on cleaning and restoration.
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93 190
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Don't be a boot licker
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Hose picture (internal) http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...68&postcount=8



Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrall View Post
..Some of you give a whole new meaning to the phrase "another @sshole with a Mastercraft."

RE: Thrall, Welcome to the club....
NEW SKINS in TN... Leading Edge Marine Interior

feedback on a TN company: http://www.mastercraft.com/teamtalk/...ad.php?t=58767

.
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  #30  
Old 02-22-2014, 08:46 AM
rydog rydog is offline
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Thanks for the response. Yeah right now my only option is keeping the boat in the water all summer. My cover will cover most of the above water fiberglass so UV on that is not enormous. The significant issue is the fact it is docked in the water all summer. Again this coming summer I will have to dock it in the water. Do you recommend scrubbing what I can off the hull underwater at least once a week or something to stop what happened last summer? If everything comes off with toilet bowl cleaner I am assuming it will need to be waxed to get it back to how it was in the beginning of the summer? This was my first summer with it, it has always been stored inside before so I am trying to figure out the best approach going forward as the new owner.
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