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  #11  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsloop View Post
Don't sweat it. Don't make it a habit but no sweat.

First question is, why would you not take the 30 min to change the oil and filter when already there?
At the time I did the winterize, I didn't hv oil and filter and was
In a time crunch. When I came back to it, I completed heater
Winterization and knew to change the oil, I really needed to
Hook all the stuff, back up, and run it to complete the task,
Properly..
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  #12  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:37 AM
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Guys, thank y'all for all the responses. I guess I will let ride,
Till march or so and dewinter, get oil and filter and trans changed,
Along with some lingering warranty work, while at the dealer.
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  #13  
Old 12-26-2013, 01:02 PM
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You can do the trans oil change easy with a suction pump. Just pull out all the oil you can and then re fill.
50hr oil and not too cold temps you can change the oil too. May as well during layup. Then it's ready to go.
As said though its not totally necessary. Think about how many cars sit for months on end and then run fine for years to come.
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  #14  
Old 12-26-2013, 01:43 PM
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OK! I just replaced the oil in my 93 last April (4/2013) and used Mobile One (synthetic).... I only put appx. 25 hours on the boat this past season.... I winterized the boat in November (11/2013) and left the oil in the block.... When I go to un-winterize the boat should I change the oil?

Thanks,
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  #15  
Old 12-26-2013, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broncotw View Post
OK! I just replaced the oil in my 93 last April (4/2013) and used Mobile One (synthetic).... I only put appx. 25 hours on the boat this past season.... I winterized the boat in November (11/2013) and left the oil in the block.... When I go to un-winterize the boat should I change the oil?

Thanks,
Yes. Combustion contaminants are in the oil. Even though there are additives to buffer the metal in the engine, the oil and additives will oxidize over time.

Plus oil is cheap compared to an engine.... don't forget a new filter..
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Old 12-26-2013, 02:22 PM
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Awesome! Thanks mikeg205! I appreciate it!
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  #17  
Old 12-26-2013, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Yes. Combustion contaminants are in the oil. Even though there are additives to buffer the metal in the engine, the oil and additives will oxidize over time.

Plus oil is cheap compared to an engine.... don't forget a new filter..
Good answer. Next question.....when you start your boat in the spring and burn out the fogging oil......you know that small cloud of smoke.....what volume of contaminants go into your oil? And shouldn't one also change their oil after that?
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  #18  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Good answer. Next question.....when you start your boat in the spring and burn out the fogging oil......you know that small cloud of smoke.....what volume of contaminants go into your oil? And shouldn't one also change their oil after that?
Most of the fogging oil should burn away in a few moments to minutes - yes some goes in to oil, but not 25 hours worth. Plus oil sitting in pan is fairly fresh.

If you want to take the MCOCD up a notch pour some MMO or cheap light weight oil into the motor while draining to help remove any residual contaminants that are camping on the bottom of oil pan.. no?
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  #19  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeg205 View Post
Most of the fogging oil should burn away in a few moments to minutes - yes some goes in to oil, but not 25 hours worth. Plus oil sitting in pan is fairly fresh.

If you want to take the MCOCD up a notch pour some MMO or cheap light weight oil into the motor while draining to help remove any residual contaminants that are camping on the bottom of oil pan.. no?
Just having fun. Hate to drive someone's MCOCD over the top unnecessarily.
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  #20  
Old 12-26-2013, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thatsmrmastercraft View Post
Just having fun. Hate to drive someone's MCOCD over the top unnecessarily.
Keep on enabling... ----
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