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  #1  
Old 10-15-2013, 04:31 PM
bhanson bhanson is offline
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Boat: 2001 X-30 "Surf Edition", LTR, 2079 prop, FAE, straight silencers, 3000# ballast, custom platform, manual surf fin, 1050 Hours and counting
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REMOVING Hook from a 2001 X30

Every "hook thread" talks about adding a hook to the PS. I am looking at just the opposite.

Dialed-in my 2001 X30 for surfing and wake on both sides is very good. But not GREAT. My X30 hull has a hook, which seems to be gone on the new hulls, and which certainly counteracts my attempts to sink the transom for a bigger surf wake.

Removing the hook seems like a pretty straightforward job for a glass shop. Might need to add a trim tab for planing, but that is also easy and well-documented.

Any thoughts or experiences doing this?
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  #2  
Old 10-15-2013, 07:05 PM
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wheeler wheeler is offline
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I think you will find you will create porpoising. Hook keeps the nose down, removing that hook will make you boat nose bounce up and down while traveling down the lake. my 04 X-10 did it all the time and was extremely aggravating. I tried all types of weight distribution to get rid of it, finally got rid of the boat instead!
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  #3  
Old 10-15-2013, 08:15 PM
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bnixon bnixon is offline
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I have a 2001 X10 and had wondered the same thing about removing the hook. I am adding a bennett trim tab that would more than compensate for the lack of the hook in keeping the bow firmly planted in the water.

I would be very interested if you get a quote on how much that would run. I would think it would do wonder for the wake.


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  #4  
Old 10-15-2013, 08:35 PM
rodltg2 rodltg2 is offline
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I don't know much about this stuff, but it would seem at surfing speed it would not make much of a difference.
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  #5  
Old 10-15-2013, 10:47 PM
Ben Ben is offline
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How about an experiment to see if it does anything... Someone tested adding a hook on a boat a few years ago. They taped or glued something on. You may be able to find the thread.

You could tape or glue something like a foot or so (maybe two feet) in front of the hook, getting as "tall" as the hook at the back of the boat. This would negate the hook effect some and just simulate a slightly deeper hull. You could use the result to see if grinding is a good idea?

Or this could be a crazy stupid idea.
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  #6  
Old 10-15-2013, 11:08 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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The glass might not be thick enough to remove the hook and still have sufficient thickness. Might be more involved than you think.
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2013, 01:25 PM
bhanson bhanson is offline
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Thanks for the replies and thoughts ! Talked to a boat glass shop yesterday and he said they add and remove hooks all the time. $450 and 3 days to remove, about the same to add it back, so worst case would be $1K experiment.

Definitely sensitive to the porpoising issue, but isn't that usually at higher speeds? 90% of the time we are surfing at 11 mph, 9% of the time we are boarding at 23 mph, and when we do "cruise" it is only about 25 mph (12-pitch 2079 prop ... can't be in a hurry to get anywhere).

Ben, that is a solid idea ! Just reverse the other guys' hook test by flattening it out with a gradual build-up of duct tape or something similar. Just winterized and was thinking about getting the work done over the winter, but think i will now wait until spring and do that test.

But, dang, now i need another winter project. Hmmm, maybe a nice redwood longboard ???
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  #8  
Old 10-16-2013, 01:36 PM
bhanson bhanson is offline
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Ben's comment about "simulating a deeper hull". Bingo !!! Maybe instead of grinding off the hook, if the "test" is successful, then have glass shop build UP the hull to cover the hook, simultaneously negating the hook effect and deepening the hull by a wee bit. Should be very simple addition and eliminate any worries about hull integrity.
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