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Old 08-31-2013, 08:57 PM
johny123 johny123 is offline
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No crank, no click, battery 12.v - help plz

I'm getting no crank when I turn the key. The gauges fire up when the key is turned, it sounds like the fuel pump is making noise, but no click from the starter/solenoid and nothing but a beep when I turn the key.

I tested the battery, 12.7v, cleaned the posts (they were already clean), tested the solenoid 12.7v, and checked for error codes - I get code 12 which is "normal condition (diagnostics system is operational)" - (as an aside, *** is the point of this code?).

Here are my questions:

1)Could the battery could still be bad even though it says 12.7v?
2)Does 12.7v at the solenoid mean I can rule it out?
3)Could the ignition switch be the problem even though the key positions do respond appropriately?

Thanks for the help guys
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:05 PM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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I would check the ground at the engine block.
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Old 08-31-2013, 09:58 PM
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carracer carracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johny123 View Post
I'm getting no crank when I turn the key. The gauges fire up when the key is turned, it sounds like the fuel pump is making noise, but no click from the starter/solenoid and nothing but a beep when I turn the key.

I tested the battery, 12.7v, cleaned the posts (they were already clean), tested the solenoid 12.7v, and checked for error codes - I get code 12 which is "normal condition (diagnostics system is operational)" - (as an aside, *** is the point of this code?).

Here are my questions:

1)Could the battery could still be bad even though it says 12.7v?
2)Does 12.7v at the solenoid mean I can rule it out?
3)Could the ignition switch be the problem even though the key positions do respond appropriately?

Thanks for the help guys
Hook up a charger on jump and rule in or out the battery,could be Solenoid not closing when the key switch /wire is hot. Cheap to replace I carry an extra solenoid in my tool box....
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Old 08-31-2013, 10:54 PM
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Mastercraftdave Mastercraftdave is offline
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Did you check the emergency kill switch lanyard?
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Old 08-31-2013, 11:16 PM
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Lanyard should let it crank, but not fire. Correct?
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:03 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madcityskier View Post
Lanyard should let it crank, but not fire. Correct?
Correct!
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:38 AM
masterx10 masterx10 is offline
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Try testing the battery voltage with a multimeter when you turn the key and see if it still stays at 12.7. Not sure you have the same problem as myself but I had a newish battery that dropped a cell. When I tested the battery by itself it would read over 12 volts but when put under load the voltage would drop down below 10 volts and would not start.
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Old 09-01-2013, 08:57 AM
johny123 johny123 is offline
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first of all, thanks for all the quick replies!

mr mastercraft, by "check ground at engine", what does that involve doing? when i was checking voltage at the solenoid i was using the engine ground as my negative. the engine ground looked good/very clean

carracer, is there any way to test the solenoid?

i should have said, originally the battery voltage was 12.3, would drop to 12.15 when i turned the key. after putting the battery on a trickle charge for a few hours voltage was 12.7.... that being said, i just realized the date code on the battery is august 2006. does it need to be replaced even though the voltage is still high? not sure how i can test amperage/capacity?

lanyard is good. that was one of my first thoughts...we've been through that one before

what does no click at the starter suggest? could the ignition switch be suspect in these types of problems?
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:27 AM
Geezer1 Geezer1 is offline
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Sounds like what happened with my '86. It had a broken wire coming off the ignition switch. Good luck finding the problem.
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Old 09-01-2013, 10:18 AM
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thatsmrmastercraft thatsmrmastercraft is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johny123 View Post
first of all, thanks for all the quick replies!

mr mastercraft, by "check ground at engine", what does that involve doing? when i was checking voltage at the solenoid i was using the engine ground as my negative. the engine ground looked good/very clean

carracer, is there any way to test the solenoid?

i should have said, originally the battery voltage was 12.3, would drop to 12.15 when i turned the key. after putting the battery on a trickle charge for a few hours voltage was 12.7.... that being said, i just realized the date code on the battery is august 2006. does it need to be replaced even though the voltage is still high? not sure how i can test amperage/capacity?

lanyard is good. that was one of my first thoughts...we've been through that one before

what does no click at the starter suggest? could the ignition switch be suspect in these types of problems?
Ensuring that the block ground has a good connection requires removing the connection, using a wire brush (preferable stainless) to clean the battery cable end, mating surface on the block and the bolt itself. You could have a fully charged battery and everything else working within the start circuit, but if you have a high resistance connection at the block ground, you will not be able to flow enough current to turn the starter. The same goes for any battery connection. Visual inspection isn't sufficient as it can look fine, but be green and fuzzy underneath.

No click at the starter suggests that there is no current getting to the starter.

I would proceed as follows until I found the problem:

Clean the ground connection, and and if you haven't yet, all the other battery cable connections including the connection at the starter. Be sure to disconnect the battery ground terminal first and leave disconnected while cleaning the positive connections, then be sure to reconnect.

Use a test light at the solenoid ignition post (small terminal with small wire) in the crank position. You should see battery voltage at crank only.

Remove the battery, charge it and take it to an auto parts store and have it tested.

Next remove the starter and have it tested.
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