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Old 03-18-2013, 11:10 AM
98Prostar205 98Prostar205 is offline
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Boat: 1998 Prostar 205
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Engine Cover Mounting Help

As the screen name would suggest, I have a '98 Prostar 205. My boat has two screws at the rear of the engine cover that attach it to the floor of the boat. One of these screws has stripped out and allows the engine cover cylinders to push the cover toward the rear of the boat. This causes the cover to get close to rubbing the pulleys on the front of the engine and also causes a small gap in the floor in front of the rear seat between the engine cover and the rear floor panel.

You guys have any ideas of how to better mount the engine cover to the floor? Right now, I just leave the gas cylinders disconnected unless I need to work in the engine compartment.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:09 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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You need to pull up the floor board section to which the motorbox is mounted (at the hinges), and put some sort of reinforcing material beneath the screw attachment points. That honeycomb aluminum stuff was no match for the force of the screws and tiny washers used from the factory. I used a small strip of treated plywood and some large washers and it worked great. You may need some longer screws.

If I recall correctly, your boat has two removable floor pieces, and the hinges are attached to a very small piece. You might just want to replace the entire piece with something more durable and waterproof.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:53 PM
MikeyOrange88 MikeyOrange88 is offline
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I had to redo the floor panel on my '88 Tristar and inserted a 2" angle, 1/8" thick at the forward edge of the floor panel (fiberglassed and bolted to the new pt wood) and thru-bolted the floor portion of the hinges to it. I trimmed the height of the angle to match the floor panel thickness. Inside the motor box I used a piece of 1/8"x2"x20" alum. flat bar (continuous for both hinges) and thru bolted the box portion of the hinges to that. I don't have the gas shocks on mine though. Probably not a simple fix for yours.
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Old 03-18-2013, 01:36 PM
98Prostar205 98Prostar205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
You need to pull up the floor board section to which the motorbox is mounted (at the hinges), and put some sort of reinforcing material beneath the screw attachment points. That honeycomb aluminum stuff was no match for the force of the screws and tiny washers used from the factory. I used a small strip of treated plywood and some large washers and it worked great. You may need some longer screws.

If I recall correctly, your boat has two removable floor pieces, and the hinges are attached to a very small piece. You might just want to replace the entire piece with something more durable and waterproof.
The small floor section to which the motorbox is mounted is ok at the hinges. The problem is with the two screws that go through this small section and into the boat. There is a screw on each side of this small section. The holes in the boat have stripped out and elongated do to the force of the gas cylinders over time (at least that's my guess). I would like to do away with the screws and find some other way to keep the motor box from sliding rearward.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:16 PM
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east tx skier east tx skier is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 98Prostar205 View Post
The small floor section to which the motorbox is mounted is ok at the hinges. The problem is with the two screws that go through this small section and into the boat. There is a screw on each side of this small section. The holes in the boat have stripped out and elongated do to the force of the gas cylinders over time (at least that's my guess). I would like to do away with the screws and find some other way to keep the motor box from sliding rearward.
Ah, I understand. I don't know of any other way to attach it. However, you might try filling the holes with epoxy and retapping the screws.
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:19 AM
Legolamb Legolamb is offline
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I have the same problem and have found the easiest way to deal with this is to not use the gas cylinders on the doghouse. The force of the cylinders in the collapsed position is what pushes the floor section to the rear and pulls the doghouse with it. I think you could do as east tx skier said and refill and drill the old elongated holes, or drill new ones in a different location. I think that is your only option for repair.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:29 PM
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frankster66 frankster66 is offline
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prostar205

Do you have pictures? I have the same kinda issue when I unscrew the small section of floor with the four screws I have the hardest time re aligning the floor to make the dog house fit correctly. I dread removing that small section of floor.
Maybe I should remove the Dog house first, then remove the small section of floor.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:10 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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I had the same problem - reinforce(repair) the panel -had to patch trashed area - used fibered filler to patch holes and stiffen panel along with a bit of cheapo resin and glass cloth. Reinforced other side with a piece of aluminum.

I had the same problem.

But now it's much better - I still remove the dog house and back floor panel when I winterize... I put mine back during my first run of the season after I check the shaft log for drips.

I hate taking it off - but as I long as I have it off - I keep it off until I run again.
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