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  #1  
Old 01-31-2013, 12:19 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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Boat: 1981 MC skier 351 W
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Transmission Slipping?

Finally time to tackle an issue I was having last season. Some of you may have seen my stringer thread last year. I bought the boat one year ago, tore it down and got it done by summer only to get to use it a handful of times due to some family circumstances. The times I did have it on the water I was working out bugs and got all but one figured out.

On hard takeoffs as well as hard turns the transmission seems to be slipping. The engine runs great, no hesitation, just revs without full engagement. Prop is tight, key is intact. A friend of mine that owns a local boat shop claims that these transmissions "don't really slip, " which I find hard to believe.

I do know that it leaks fluid and have yet to track/fix that. The issue persists even though I have topped off any lost fluid each time.

I know my boat pretty well inside and out, except for whats inside that little box between the motor and shaft. Pretty sure I could handle a rebuild so long as it doesnt require any crazy specialized tools. Anybody have any insight as to the cause?

Thanks,
Scot
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Old 01-31-2013, 12:24 AM
Scot Scot is offline
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Forgot to mention, its a powerslot.
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  #3  
Old 01-31-2013, 10:46 AM
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willyt willyt is offline
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it can definitely slip if the tranny fluid is low, but it sounds like, if it only does it in hard turns, that you're experiencing cavitation.

what kind of boat do you have? some are more prone to it than others, i only experienced it once on my 05 X2, but my 07 star seems to love to cavitate. I've heard the 5 blade doesnt allow as much cavitation.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:36 AM
TRBenj TRBenj is offline
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The can also slip if the clutch plates are worn. Low fluid in a tranny on its way out can cause slipping or even pop out of gear- but thats not the only thing that will cause it. Combined with the leak youre seeing, I'd say its rebuild time.
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Old 01-31-2013, 02:41 PM
PureInboards PureInboards is offline
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Last thing you want to do is re-build for no reason but best thing to do is pull the dipstick and smell the oil, if smells like its burn't there is a pretty good chance the clutch packs are slipping but defiantly check out possible cavitation first and even try another known good prop just in case the prop has been repaired/modified during its life
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  #6  
Old 01-31-2013, 05:24 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Ebasicpower.com is where I got my rebuild kit from. I think it is the cheapest place to get a master rebuild kit.

When I did mine I assembled everything and had the same problem. My clutches were worn and needed replacing but my front pump was bad. So I had to remove the tranny and put a pump in. It worked very well after that.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:50 PM
Scot Scot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Ebasicpower.com is where I got my rebuild kit from. I think it is the cheapest place to get a master rebuild kit.

When I did mine I assembled everything and had the same problem. My clutches were worn and needed replacing but my front pump was bad. So I had to remove the tranny and put a pump in. It worked very well after that.
Kyle, what is included in the typical master rebuild kit and what else might I need? I am finding seperate kits with snap rings, clutch plates, etc, and I am confused. I would think I want all of these things for my rebuild, right? I am also planning on replacing the pump, damper, and cooler as it seems like the thing to do, right? Thanks for all your help!

Planning on pulling this thing on Thurs. this week and digging in as soon as I get parts. Also, that manual would be very helpful as I wont touch anything inside until I have one.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:05 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Let me scan a manual for you first

No need to replace the cooler. Those either leak or don't leak. If its not leaking then its prolly fine. How old is your cooler? The damper prolly is fine too. Mine is the factory damper. No need to replace that unless you just have severe MCOCD.


The pump is the pump.


The kit comes with all plates and clutches. It also includes all gaskets, seals, snap rings.

Here is what I would do. Print out the manual and put it in a binder.

Dissassemble the tranny over the weekend. Mark the pump so that when you install the new pump it will be in the correct position. If you install it 180* off then forward will be reverse and reverse will be forward. This means removal again to loosen 4 bolts, spin a pump 180* and re tighten. Just take a sharpie and mark the pump case to inner bell housing so you know how to reinstall. It's not hard.

Once you get the clutches out and everything apart look at the book and note any broken or worn out pieces.

Order the kit and extra pieces that may need replacing. There is a washer and some brass pieces that I replaced that were not in the kit.



Now after you have this dissembled get on

Www.ebasicpower.com

They have the same kits as everyone else for less money. They have the kit break down of what is included. They also have a piece by piece way of ordering too.

They are online only so not great if you want someone to hold your hand through customer service hence cheaper prices.

Order kit, pump, extra parts if need be (I broke a spring clip during disassembly so wait to order until it is apart, I had 2 orders and shipping due to that clip that was .50 and $5 to ship)

Kit will come fast

Reassemble and go down the road.

I did this on my garage floor. A bench would have been very nice but I didn't have one and it sucked. I left the entire tranny internals in order as I pulled them out (different gears, clutch sections, and casings). Waited for my 2 shipments and put it together.

It is not brain surgery.

If you need to take off a section or piece and label a zip lock Baggie of bolts then do that.

I normally throw everything in a bucket and remember what bolt went where.

The manual will label every piece and show you how to assemble it. If you can read and follow directions then I'm sure you can DIY.
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  #9  
Old 02-19-2013, 04:14 AM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Another tip.

After getting the tranny mounts unbolted from stringer, wiring harness removed, shaft coupler separated etc

Get a strap or rope. Put it under the tranny tail shaft and pick up. The tranny and engine will move or rotate toward the pylon of your boat. Meaning the angle if the engine will become level. Grab a kid or wife or neighbor and have them tie a rope from the pylon to the exhaust risers. It won't be too heavy. Secure the angle to where the tranny is like 1" away from the stringer.

Remove bell housing bolts and the ground. There are (2) 1/2" or 7/16" bolts under the bell housing near the starter that you will have to remove as well. Slide tranny straight back. She is now out.
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Quote:
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If you want bling like the big dawgs, ya gotta lift your leg a little higher.....
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  #10  
Old 03-09-2013, 08:19 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Ebasicpower.com is where I got my rebuild kit from. I think it is the cheapest place to get a master rebuild kit.

When I did mine I assembled everything and had the same problem. My clutches were worn and needed replacing but my front pump was bad. So I had to remove the tranny and put a pump in. It worked very well after that.
Hey Kyle,

Did you have to use a shop press to do your rebuild? I have the ZF 450 D or ZF45c and it calls for a bunch of specialty tools to rebuild.
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