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  #1  
Old 11-25-2012, 03:06 PM
erervin erervin is offline
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Boat: 2005 Mastercraft 197 TT
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PS 197 Single Axle Brake Overhual

I bought my boat in July and used it through the rest of the summer trailering it without brakes. The PO had cut the flexible brakes lines allowing water to enter the closed system.
I'm wanting to overhaul the brakes this winter and get these working again for safety reasons.

Today I removed the cap on the tongue and found water and rusted residue in the reservoir. I disconnected the brakes lines, removed and cleaned the liquid and residue from the reservoir, and filled with clean brake fluid. I then pumped the cylinder back and forth in an effort to purge the lines, however I believe they're plugged.

Next question is where do I go from here? It has disc brakes but I'm afraid that they're toast as well. Am I looking at installing an entirely new brake system? Does anyone have the part numbers and suggestions moving forward? Thanks.
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Old 11-25-2012, 03:17 PM
jgraham37128 jgraham37128 is offline
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There should be a brake line fitting somewhere close to the swing tongue. Remove it completely and pump up the master cylinder. If it doesn't squirt out when you pump it, then you know where problem is. I would replace the whole unit if this is where the clog is. If it does squirt out then I would remove it at the disk brake area and try again, see if it still squirts out until you find where it's not working properly.

Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2012, 04:32 PM
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Kyle Kyle is offline
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Water and brake systems is a bad mixture.

The cap that you removed for the master cylinder needs to be very clean in there. The valve inside the master cylinder and the rubber o rings will not last if you try to use it.


Here is what I would do.

Order a new master cylinder ~$60 or so. Take the coupler apart now only if you can remember how to reassemble it. If that is a problem then order a new cylinder and wait to take the coupler apart and just to the install the same day as the disassemble.



Next there should be a rubber flex line. You say that it is not connected. (I wonder if the reverse lock out solenoid quit working and the PO could not back up the trailer.... Just an idea so check the solenoid when the coupler is apart) Take compressed air and run it through the rubber hose that connects to the calipers. Remove the brake line on the calipers before blowing compressed air.

Then reconnect the line and bleed the master cylinder.

Then connect the lines at the calipers. Start by bleeding the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. Loosen the bleeder valve on the furthest caliper and attach a rubber hose to the bleeder valve that runs to a corona beer bottle (clear container) and make sure the rubber hose is under some fluid in the clear bottle (bottle can not start out empty) and start pumping the lever under the toungue of the trailer making for sure that it does not go dry. Eventually the fluid will flow out of the caliper and you can take notice on the flushing of the caliper. If it is super rusty then you may want to replace the calipers but you may get lucky and be able to use them. Just flush the crap out of them. Once you flush the furthest caliper, tighten the bleeder valve and flush the next caliper that is the furthest from the master cylinder or if you have a single axle trailer just do the other side. Flush the crap out of that side.


After bleeding and flushing I would try the system out.

If you replace the master cylinder your out $60 or so and the maybe replacment of the reverse lock out solenoid $20 or so. There is a good chance that you will only have to spend $100 or so. If the calipers are ruined then I'm sure that you will be out another $150 or so.
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Last edited by Kyle; 11-25-2012 at 04:40 PM.
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2012, 05:55 PM
erervin erervin is offline
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Great help guys, thanks. I went out and disconnected the flex hose behind the master cylinder and manually activated the actuator... nothing. I think the entire actuator is bad so I'm leaning towards replacing it with a UFP A-60 shown here.

https://caltrailerworks.com/online/p...3&cat=6&page=1

Not sure if this will slide into the existing outer member housing or if I'll need to purchase a UFP-specific housing (weld-on) and weld it to the existing swing-away portion of the tongue.

https://caltrailerworks.com/online/p...9&cat=6&page=1

I pulled all the brake lines and blew low-pressure compressed air through them. The line connecting one caliper to the other was clean and free. However the long run from the hitch to the first caliper was blocked. Going to have to replace that 14' run.

Once I get that all installed, then I'll test the calipers to see if they're still functioning.
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:46 PM
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petermegan petermegan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle View Post
Water and brake systems is a bad mixture.

The cap that you removed for the master cylinder needs to be very clean in there. The valve inside the master cylinder and the rubber o rings will not last if you try to use it.


Here is what I would do.

Order a new master cylinder ~$60 or so. Take the coupler apart now only if you can remember how to reassemble it. If that is a problem then order a new cylinder and wait to take the coupler apart and just to the install the same day as the disassemble.



Next there should be a rubber flex line. You say that it is not connected. (I wonder if the reverse lock out solenoid quit working and the PO could not back up the trailer.... Just an idea so check the solenoid when the coupler is apart) Take compressed air and run it through the rubber hose that connects to the calipers. Remove the brake line on the calipers before blowing compressed air.

Then reconnect the line and bleed the master cylinder.

Then connect the lines at the calipers. Start by bleeding the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. Loosen the bleeder valve on the furthest caliper and attach a rubber hose to the bleeder valve that runs to a corona beer bottle (clear container) and make sure the rubber hose is under some fluid in the clear bottle (bottle can not start out empty) and start pumping the lever under the toungue of the trailer making for sure that it does not go dry. Eventually the fluid will flow out of the caliper and you can take notice on the flushing of the caliper. If it is super rusty then you may want to replace the calipers but you may get lucky and be able to use them. Just flush the crap out of them. Once you flush the furthest caliper, tighten the bleeder valve and flush the next caliper that is the furthest from the master cylinder or if you have a single axle trailer just do the other side. Flush the crap out of that side.


After bleeding and flushing I would try the system out.

If you replace the master cylinder your out $60 or so and the maybe replacment of the reverse lock out solenoid $20 or so. There is a good chance that you will only have to spend $100 or so. If the calipers are ruined then I'm sure that you will be out another $150 or so.
*2 Just watch out for crap in those lines.
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  #6  
Old 11-26-2012, 01:03 AM
Skyskiguy Skyskiguy is offline
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You have a Reliable brand actuator (anyone else see the irony in their choice of names?). You won't find any parts for it. Your best bet is to cut the Reliable tongue assembly away from the hinge mechanism and weld in a UFP housing and install a new UFP inner member. Be sure you get the correct inner member for your axle/disc set-up. I'll be tackling the same project on my '06 tandem/disc MC trailer this winter.

Last edited by Skyskiguy; 11-26-2012 at 01:10 AM.
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Old 11-26-2012, 07:53 AM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyskiguy View Post
You have a Reliable brand actuator (anyone else see the irony in their choice of names?). You won't find any parts for it. Your best bet is to cut the Reliable tongue assembly away from the hinge mechanism and weld in a UFP housing and install a new UFP inner member. Be sure you get the correct inner member for your axle/disc set-up. I'll be tackling the same project on my '06 tandem/disc MC trailer this winter.
Thanks Skyskiguy...that's what I thought but I could not remember brand x.
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:07 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Start here...

www.pacifictrailers.com

https://caltrailerworks.com/online/home.php

Send me your email, I have a parts manual...

What year is your boat?
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Last edited by mikeg205; 11-25-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-25-2012, 04:18 PM
erervin erervin is offline
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The boat is a 2005.

er_ervin@yahoo.com

Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2012, 04:24 PM
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mikeg205 mikeg205 is offline
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Originally Posted by erervin View Post
The boat is a 2005.

er_ervin@yahoo.com

Thanks!
sent 3 files...between the 3 files plus the links you should be good to go. there's fewthreads here that walk thru trailer brake rebuilds.

The only thing I don't recognize is the actuator...I think you may have to change actuators...MC swtiched actuator vendors and I believe the one shown is not available but I could be wrong. Most of us have the UFP brand which I sent you.
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