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Old 07-13-2012, 05:45 PM
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SugarLake SugarLake is offline
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Boat: 88 Prostar 190 351W 1:1
Location: Minnesota
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Carb Problem 351 Holley 4160 Flooding

Getting frustrated and looking for ideas. Boat is an '88 PS 190 with 351 and brand new (last year) Holley 4160. Boat was running fine but I decided to replace the power valve with a 2.5 because I wasn't sure what the new carb came with and I was having some slight bogging and rich smell out of the hole. Pulled the front bowl, switched out the power valve, put it back together and it wouldn't start. Finally figured out it was getting way too much gas and got it to start with choke open and wide open throttle. If I back off the throttle it will stay running for a while (with black smoke) but quickly loads up.

I pulled the front bowl again, blew through the float and it seemed to be shutting off fine. Tried again with same results. Then I pulled both bowls, blew through the inlets with compressed air, checked them both to see that the needles and seat were closing by holding them upside down and blowing through the inlets with my mouth. Seemed to be working fine. Put it back together and still have the issue. I also tried changing back to the original power valve.

What did I do? Doesn't make any sense to me.
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  #2  
Old 07-13-2012, 06:18 PM
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mcparadise mcparadise is offline
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Boat: 1998 Sportstar 19/305 Chevy Indmar (4160 Carbed)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarLake View Post
Getting frustrated and looking for ideas. Boat is an '88 PS 190 with 351 and brand new (last year) Holley 4160. Boat was running fine but I decided to replace the power valve with a 2.5 because I wasn't sure what the new carb came with and I was having some slight bogging and rich smell out of the hole. Pulled the front bowl, switched out the power valve, put it back together and it wouldn't start. Finally figured out it was getting way too much gas and got it to start with choke open and wide open throttle. If I back off the throttle it will stay running for a while (with black smoke) but quickly loads up.

I pulled the front bowl again, blew through the float and it seemed to be shutting off fine. Tried again with same results. Then I pulled both bowls, blew through the inlets with compressed air, checked them both to see that the needles and seat were closing by holding them upside down and blowing through the inlets with my mouth. Seemed to be working fine. Put it back together and still have the issue. I also tried changing back to the original power valve.

What did I do? Doesn't make any sense to me.
For what it my be worth, I had a "similar" problem in my 98 regular-carbed SS19 with Indmar 305that kicked my mechanic's butt. Nothing worked. Holly 4160 650 cfm was fine and almost new....end of story is the Carter fuel pump (high volume low pressure) was putting out way too much pressure and flooding her out. At that time I had no pressure gage, no longer though !, so it was hard to disgnose. I went with the marine Holly instead which mounts with terminals on top not on bottom (poor Carter design in my book considering they are "press fit" with a screwy wire retainer).
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Old 07-14-2012, 12:52 AM
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SugarLake SugarLake is offline
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Boat: 88 Prostar 190 351W 1:1
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 38
Thanks, I think a fuel pump is worth a shot. Mine is original so it wouldn't hurt to replace it at any rate. I've had the bowls off about 5 times now. Took out the floats and needle and seat, can't see anything wrong. No fuel coming out of the J tubes either. It really has me stumped.
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:43 AM
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SeaCup SeaCup is offline
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Boat: 1992 MC Prostar 190
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Since the boat was running fine before you changed the power valve I would double check the valve. The valve might be defective or leaking around the gasket because it was not tightened properly. Use a little petroleum jelly and hold it upside down when you tighten it to make sure the gasket stays centered.

Super easy to test the valve, screw in both your idle air screws (count how many turns so you can put them back where they were) and if the engine starts to stumble and die the valve is good. If it keeps running the valve is bad.
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Old 07-14-2012, 10:10 PM
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SugarLake SugarLake is offline
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Boat: 88 Prostar 190 351W 1:1
Location: Minnesota
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It was the metering block gasket. When I pulled it off the first time it tore a little so I replaced with one I had got before and never used. Apparently there are 2 different ones for the 4160 and I used the wrong one. I got a kit at the MC dealer today and it came with 2 different ones.

BUT with all my screwing around trying to figure it out I think I messed a few things up. The boat is running great, but I have the mixture screws all the way in. If I turn them out the RPM's go down. Maybe the float is too high? Any ideas appreciated.
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Old 07-14-2012, 11:32 PM
Cloaked Cloaked is offline
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Boat: MasterCraft
Location: Kingston,TN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SugarLake View Post
It was the metering block gasket. When I pulled it off the first time it tore a little so I replaced with one I had got before and never used. Apparently there are 2 different ones for the 4160 and I used the wrong one. I got a kit at the MC dealer today and it came with 2 different ones.

BUT with all my screwing around trying to figure it out I think I messed a few things up. The boat is running great, but I have the mixture screws all the way in. If I turn them out the RPM's go down. Maybe the float is too high? Any ideas appreciated.
Begin with them all the way in, turning each one out approx. 1 - 1-1/2 turn. That should get you very close. If that isn't feasible, you have another issue. Patience. The 4160s are cantankerous but once you learn the characteristics, they work just fine (for the most part).

Make sure the electric choke is adjusted properly. Typically, mid-range on the scale will get it very close. Powervalve can also trick you, so just make sure it's seated properly and is in good working condition.

Have a double-check look-see here ==> http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...l/199R8339.pdf

.
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Last edited by Cloaked; 07-14-2012 at 11:37 PM.
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  #7  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:43 AM
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pbgbottle pbgbottle is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Boat: 1988 tristar 190
Location: Cloverdale B.C. Canada
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bump old thread i just rebuilt my 4160 also it has a blank for my carb # R50419-1
my floats weren't level either but they are now. also the rebuild kit came with the 6.5 power valve not the 2.5
it started and ran fine . but i will get it on the lake tuesday for test drive.

any update to your situation hows your carb working for you .

i used the holley rebuild kit 703-29


also the old needle and seats had different numbers on them primary had 97 secondary had 110 stamped on them .in the new rebuild kit both needle and seats are identical .

just curious why the changes ,my carb is from 88



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Old 06-16-2013, 03:43 PM
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pbgbottle pbgbottle is offline
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Boat: 1988 tristar 190
Location: Cloverdale B.C. Canada
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I'm sitting on the lake now. Boat runs and idles fine. But when I give her fuel to go she bogs barfs out the top of the carb with a poof sound. And then goes it will stiffer and shudder for a bit and then smooth out. I too was wondering what the float level may be. Mine where not level either. Of it stalls super hard to start also full throttle and crank her over until it roars to life. This sucks. Carb work better befor rebuild. I only rebuilt it because it was 20 years old and leaking fuel out of the accelerator pump
And started to run ruff. I no I got it rebuilt right and cleaned. I check everything and had my mechanic buddy do the technical stuff. But he too was concerned about float levels wit the original settings being so different.
Anyways. I'll check it later when I limp it back home. Haha.


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