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Old 07-10-2011, 12:30 AM
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JMann JMann is offline
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fuel leak from carb

I just tried to start my 1991 PS 190 with the 240hp indmar engine. It has been sitting for 6 months and now has a gas leak from near the carb. Here is the problem.

In the picture the silver tube will slide right to left about a 1/4" and will spin. It only leaks when I am turning it over. It leaks from where the tube is going into either end. When I pushed the tube to the right gas leaks from the left (at the arrow) and when I push it to the left gas leaks from the right (at the arrow).

How do I fix the gas leak so I can get back out on the water ASAP?
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Last edited by JMann; 07-10-2011 at 12:32 AM.
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Old 07-10-2011, 01:20 AM
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That tube has o-rings on each end to seal it. Going to need to, at least, partially disassemble the Carb to replace them. But since you will need an overhaul gasket set... might as well overhaul the Carb.
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Old 07-10-2011, 07:51 AM
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I agree. Just went through this with the same carb. You have to take off the front bowl to replace the o rings which means you will trash that gasket. Might as well replace as many gaskets as possible.
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Old 07-10-2011, 11:59 AM
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When you put it all back together, don't over torque the fuel line connection to the carb or it will leak, too.
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
When you put it all back together, don't over torque the fuel line connection to the carb or it will leak, too.
East Tx Skier, If you look above where his left index finger appears to be, I have a little bit of fuel leaking from the other end of that line which I'm guessing goes to the fuel pump. Is this what you're talking about leaking if overtorqued? Think I can just loosen it up some on both ends and re-tighten a bit? Skidim has the whole line for like 15 bucks.
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Old 07-10-2011, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNPIG View Post
East Tx Skier, If you look above where his left index finger appears to be, I have a little bit of fuel leaking from the other end of that line which I'm guessing goes to the fuel pump. Is this what you're talking about leaking if overtorqued? Think I can just loosen it up some on both ends and re-tighten a bit? Skidim has the whole line for like 15 bucks.
Yes it is real easy to overtorque the fuel line where it enters the carburetor. If yours is leaking try loosening the line up and snug it back down, if it still leaks then replace the hard line and snug down...
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Old 07-10-2011, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNPIG View Post
East Tx Skier, If you look above where his left index finger appears to be, I have a little bit of fuel leaking from the other end of that line which I'm guessing goes to the fuel pump. Is this what you're talking about leaking if overtorqued? Think I can just loosen it up some on both ends and re-tighten a bit? Skidim has the whole line for like 15 bucks.
Correct. Get the correct torque specs for that fitting and do not exceed them. You can just back it of and retighten.
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Old 09-30-2011, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by east tx skier View Post
Correct. Get the correct torque specs for that fitting and do not exceed them. You can just back it of and retighten.
Quote:
Originally Posted by j.mccreight@hotmail.com View Post
Yes it is real easy to overtorque the fuel line where it enters the carburetor. If yours is leaking try loosening the line up and snug it back down, if it still leaks then replace the hard line and snug down...
The other area you want to insure the correct torques is applied is to the bolts for the fuel bowls back and front. In the PCM Manual for this engine as found on this site it quotes a TQ of 10 inch pounds let me repeat so there is no mistake 10 inch pounds not foot pounds!!! My suggestion is to step TQ it meaning that you take it to 5 inch pounds stabilize torque meaning that you go around once you have torqued the nuts and verify that they dont turn anymore. Then take it up to final torque, and once again insure the TQ is stabilized. The socket is a 5/16" for these bolts, and insure they have the seal on them.

Regarding your question about how to replace the o-rings on the fuel tube, yes you can do this work with carb installed in place. If done while in place and you go from secondary side you dont even have to worry about torqueing the fuel inlet line. My suggestion is removing the back float bowl, depending on the year of your carb there might be 3/32 clutch head screws holding the gasket in place with a plate. A smaller flat tip should work removing and reinstalling the screws. Yes fuel will leak from the bowl when breaking it loose from carb, place a rag or some other form of absorbent material under the bowl when GENTLY removing it.

Hope this helps and get you back out on the water.

In my haste to help out a fellow boater did not realize the thread started out almost a couple of months ago when I wrote my reply

Last edited by rjracin240; 09-30-2011 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Did not realize the start of thread was from almost a couple of months ago
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:40 PM
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Carb kit

Skidim does have the 4160 Holley carb kit. It is Rn0120-1, at least for the Holley on the 351. for $50. You can also buy gaskets for the metering block and fuel bowl separately from http://www.holley.com/0-80319-1.asp, and maybe also from Skidim. Holley also has the complete carburetor and a kit, but I didn't check the price.
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Old 07-10-2011, 12:45 PM
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JMann JMann is offline
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Can I leave the carb on the engine remove the front bowl replace those seals and re assemble without removing the carb? Or do I need to remove the carb from the engine? Are the seals something I can buy at NAPA and replace just the seals or should I order the whole "renew" kit. I can get a marine renew kit at JEGS for about $40. Or should I buy it at Skidim?
Thanks in advance for your help.
So the tube should slide a little and spin?
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1991 ps 190, carb, fuel problem, indmar

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