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  #1  
Old 05-01-2005, 11:19 PM
Medicine Laker
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Cold nights and engine blocks

I live in the north and like to get my boat in for some early season skiing. I have been warned previously about the possibility of having the water freeze in the engine block and and it cracking. How cold does it really need to get before this is a concern? Just because it gets down to 32 for an hour overnight should not be a problem, but where is the line?
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Old 05-01-2005, 11:30 PM
Leroy
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No one can answer for sure, keep in mind the temperature also varies by probably +/- 3 or 4 degrees depending on where the boat is located.


I would play it safe, if you make a mistake it is at least $5k mistake. It's easy to drain the water out and not more than a 10 minute job.
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  #3  
Old 05-02-2005, 12:24 AM
Bongo Bongo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Medicine Laker
How cold does it really need to get before this is a concern? Just because it gets down to 32 for an hour overnight should not be a problem, but where is the line?
Yea, I've thought about this question a few times. My rationale: If the boat is on the water, the lake will act as a 'heat island' and not get as cold as the air over land. However, it'll also be at the low point, so offset some by the cooler air gravitating toward the low spot. When temps dip slightly below freezing - especially if was a (reasonably) warm day - I have no concerns. Beyond that, I've occasionally taken my chances.

If you are concerned, you may want to try a small light bulb. An incandescent light bulb is basically an electric heater that emits a small bit of light energy. Placing a well-protected light (i.e. shop light, or similar) under the engine will certainly keep it warm enough on most spring nights in most locations. Notice the wiggle words, such that I didn't give a definitive answer? ;-)

Bongo
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  #4  
Old 05-02-2005, 12:30 AM
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JEREMY79 JEREMY79 is offline
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Dont forget that metal temp (block is metal) is typically 10-15 degrees colder than the air. I know this because of painting metal. Stupid stuff that stays in my head.
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  #5  
Old 05-02-2005, 12:55 AM
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erkoehler erkoehler is offline
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I wouldn't take the chance. Either drain the block, or pull the boat out of the lake and store it indoors.

To me, the 15 minutes it may take to do either of those things is not worth the 5k in possible damage.
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  #6  
Old 05-02-2005, 01:06 AM
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AirJunky AirJunky is offline
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These inboards are a lot easier to drain than an outboard or I/O. With petcocks on the side of your block, a pair of hoses connecting the exhaust manifolds, and a couple of radiator flush Ts in your heater & shower hoses, bump start the motor once & the water in the motor is gone in less than 3 minutes.
I have been keeping my 205 outside for 5 years & I live less than an hour from the Canadian border. Never had a problem..... knock on wood.
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  #7  
Old 05-04-2005, 07:27 AM
Tom Jones Tom Jones is offline
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I agree, you have to remember also that the motor box has insulation around it and if the boat has been run the day before the temp. drops it will be fine even if it gets quite a bit below freezing. Just for piece if mind I do put a trouble light inside the motor box occassinally when it gets more than a couple of degrees below freezing. I do this if the boat has not been run that day.
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  #8  
Old 05-04-2005, 11:16 AM
phecksel phecksel is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEREMY79
Dont forget that metal temp (block is metal) is typically 10-15 degrees colder than the air. I know this because of painting metal. Stupid stuff that stays in my head.
I respectfully disagree. It's absolutely impossible for metal to become colder then the steady state outside air temperature. Metal can lag behind in increasing or decreasing temperature, because of the mass and the rate of heat transfer.
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  #9  
Old 05-04-2005, 10:57 PM
VTJC VTJC is offline
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I also face the same issues in the spring and fall. I found this solution on another forum, http://www.wakesiderides.com/forums/...howtopic=12059 . I am going to setup my shower and heater this way. How I just need to figure out how to drain the raw water pump easily. At a minimum drain the block, itís the most expensive part. Jamie
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  #10  
Old 05-04-2005, 11:08 PM
Leroy
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Be aware electrical solutions are liable to have spark and BOOM. Power surges, outages, etc. I've never seen it, but guy that installed my lift said it happens quite a bit.


He also said dropping the boat in the water overnight is pretty good solution as water should be pretty warm compared to freezing air.
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