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Old 07-15-2014, 03:36 PM
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David Analog David Analog is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Boat: N/A
Location: Texas
Posts: 588
You can't bridge a monoblock amplifier.
We're only speculating that heat may be the problem so sure, you can add a fan. A floating fan mostly circulates air around the perimeter of the fan which doesn't do much good. If you want a truly effective fan, mount the fan just above (1/2" or so) the middle of the amplifier within a flat shroud with dimensions equal to the amplifier perimeter. Then a small 2-inch fan will really produce. A secondary fan can be placed in the compartment exterior wall to exchange outside air. The locker can become 145 degrees in July/Aug while the outside air is bound to be 50 degrees less. Also, elevate the amplifier a 1/2" up off its mounting surface. That takes care of cooling but it begs the question as to why a fairly efficient Class D amplifier would be having thermal issues. A fan is a nice bandaid but if a fan is needed you are generating too much heat for some reason.
That amp should have a dedicated 4-gauge +/- cable to the battery or 4-gauge extensions divided by distribution with a 1-gauge +/- home run. Less than that = more heat.
The batteries should never be allowed to dip below 11.8 volts. You should start out the day with all batteries at a 12.5 to 12.7 volt level with the boat off. Less than that = more heat.
If the amp has a bass boost it should be 'off' in an open air environment and certainly with an IB woofer. Any bass equalization = more heat.
If the lowpass crossover is set too low it forces you to gain the amplifier up too much and works the amplifier and subwoofers inordinately hard. You guessed it. = more heat. Try moving the x-over up 1/3rd octave which will force you to gain the amplifier input down. You'll get more overall output with less subwoofer excursion and less amplifier power expended. But I wouldn't go higher than 125 Hz.
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