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Old 10-11-2013, 01:32 PM
bigmac bigmac is offline
MC Platinum
Join Date: Jun 2005
Boat: 2004 Maristar 230 VRS
Location: Central Minnesota
Posts: 8,324
Originally Posted by Timr245 View Post
So if I pump anti-freeze in from the top of the engine where the heater hose connects until It comes back out my knock sensor holes, I should have the entire engine full of anti-freeze? I would want to install my new raw water impeller first though correct? Also does this engine have manifold drains? This is my first time winterizing an Indmar so I apologize in advance for all the questions, just trying to make sure it's done properly.
On my boat, lying in the bilge, were the heater lines - 5/8 inch hoses. The output line had a plastic splice in it from the factory. I detached that, hooked up an RV winterizing pump with the siphon end in a gallon of -100 propylene glycol (I use -100 because this is Minnesota) and start pumping. It takes much less than a gallon before you hear the glycol flowing back into the engine. You could pump the whole gallon in..certainly nothing wrong with anti-freeze sitting in your engine block all winter. You could change your impeller first, if you want. I rarely changed my impeller as part of the winterizing process. In fact, I rarely changed my impeller.

Yes, your manifolds need to be drained. Mine have looped garden hose connection. I just undid the hose connection and they drained.

'04 MariStar 230VRS/MCX
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