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Old 05-20-2013, 11:36 AM
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EarmarkMarine EarmarkMarine is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Boat: TBD
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 518
Quote:
Originally Posted by Traxx822 View Post
I'm battling the same issue. So you are saying the head unit needs a different power source more directly related to a direct power source same as the engines? That would be why the noice is less if the switch is set on dual while the engine is running.

Would an added battery and direct wiring do the trick? In lamens terms, what is the best route to wire this up so I can get rid of my noise too?
Follow these simple instructions.
When using a dual battery switch, the engine alternator/starter feed, helm buss, and all stereo equipment should go to the dual battery switch output post. Nothing but a bilge pump/float switch (if applicable) would go battery direct.
ALL audio equipment should share the same ground point. Closest to the amplifier(s) primary terminals is best.
ALL audio equipment should share the same B+ point. Closest to the amplifier(s) primary terminals is best.
Quality of cables and especially quality of connections/terminations is important.
Amplifier input gains should be set correctly which means they should not be maxed out.
This will eliminate 99% of noise problems.

David
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