Well I got a heck of a lot done. My dad came down to help me out.
I rebuilt the carb, figured out that not all of the carbs had teflon bushings. It thus makes sense why I didnt see any when I pulled the throttle shaft. SWGA Boater, Id be willing to give yours a whirl. But it is very pleasing to get it done yourself.
We carpeted the front floor panel before installing the motor. Im not sure if I had to do that or not. However, I didnt want to take the chance with the motor in place and not being able to install that panel. I think I actually will be able to remove it fairly easily with the motor mounted anyway.
I found a local metal shop that had a fork lift. I paid them to get the motor into the boat.
Here is the motor being loaded on the trailer. Sucker is heavy!
Here it is, about a year after the previous owner removed it. Back in place, kinda. It still needs to be aligned to the propeller shaft. Take your time, and then using a little bit of muscle, the bolts should align. It makes sense to mount the bolts up side down, with the nut on top. In these pictures they are not arranged in this manner. But that was only temporary.
Heres the electrical process. A lot of the wires were corroded, so they had to be replaced. Crimp lugs were installed, with heat shrink tubing. Colors of the wires dont really match to any diagram, but I dont really care. That doesnt matter much.
We ended up not utilizing the 8 prone harness connectors, which were corroded. Instead, we just attached the wires to the terminal block panel, or whatever you call that thing. The starter relay was initially replaced, but it was found to be faulty, and the old one seems to work just fine. Ill replace it in the future if need be. A new 50 amp breaker was wired into the system.
This is an image of the breaker mount. Its one of the 5 brackets I ended up fabricating. You can also see the terminal block, on it is the relay mount
Raw Water Pump Bracket
Alternator Bracket. The way the Alternator was mounted when I got the boat was incorrect. Here is an image of the Indmar Bracket that was supposed to be present. They are no available anywhere, so I decided to build one.
I also built a bracket for the external balast resistor and fuel/water separator.
I installed the water strainer, and installed all coolant hoses. Fuel Lines were installed.
Basically, everything on the motor was set up to fire it up and a new ignition switch was installed. We initially had an issue with the distributor. The internals needed to be cleaned, and then we had a spark. Once we figured out the timing, which will still be adjusted a little, we had a power!
I had to replaced battery cables which were heavily corroded on the inside. The new ones are well sealed and should last for a very long time.
With all this work, I also managed to get the old cutlass bearings out. Those things are a PITA. It seemed like a little hack saw worked the best. This way you dont damage the strut. Just take your time, and cut two slits in the bearing, and it slides out fairly easily.
Here you can see my tools and the 2 cut bearings.
And there is the new bearings installed. Makes sure you get the correct sized bearings as they change if you have a powerslot transmission or not.
This is just an overhead view of the motor. Feels good to have this part of the process almost complete.
As a final treat, heres a link to the video of the things running! I love the sound!
Ignore the extra cap on the distributor, I used the old cap to hold the new cap down. I need to source new hold down clips to keep my cap in place.
I can see the light at the end of the tunnel.